Mopar Steel Wheels on WK
- Thread starter SSF556
- Start date
DEFENDERBEAM
strategic command
cool.
SSF556
SE Expedition Society
Hey Bob....one of them was the spare tire. I bought the other one off of Amazon. They are going on an off road trailer I bought...but for ****s and giggles I put them on the Jeep today and the longer they are on there the more I like them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NNSZ7M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The issue I have with the AEV is that I believe they are too wide for a 255 or 265 tire and make the tire balloon. I also do not like the tires sticking out past the fenders.
At full lock with the steel wheels above and the 255/75/17 they rub...so I am looking for a 1/2 hub-centric spacer. I have a request into a company in Sparks, NV looking at making me a set....that will push the wheel out I believe just enough to get rid of the rub at full lock. If I can get the spacer made...I believe these will be a winner.
They wheels are heavy. With the diesel engine I have I am not sure it will be a big issue...but if you had the 3.6L V6 gas engine you may feel the difference.
SSF556
SE Expedition Society
Not sure at this time....
1stDeuce
Explorer
A 1/2" hub centric spacer is going to be interesting... Are you going to put longer lug studs in to accommodate the extra 1/2"? You wouldn't have enough thread engagement otherwise... ??
Might be easier to see where the tires are rubbing, and either do a little bit of trimming if it's plastic, or if it's a flange, just flatten it. If it's a friendly surface anyway, then just don't worry about it, and back off the steer angle just a tad. ??
I do like the look of the steel wheels though. But I don't like typical aftermarket wheels either.
(But I do like AEV's geometry, which usually only adds a tiny bit of backspace for clearance, and whatever width they feel is necessary.)
BTW, what is the width of those AEV wheels? I'm running 255/85R16 Maxx's on 8" wheels, and though I wouldn't go wider, they don't look like they're stretched onto too wide a wheel. The sidewalls are basically straight.
C
Might be easier to see where the tires are rubbing, and either do a little bit of trimming if it's plastic, or if it's a flange, just flatten it. If it's a friendly surface anyway, then just don't worry about it, and back off the steer angle just a tad. ??
I do like the look of the steel wheels though. But I don't like typical aftermarket wheels either.
(But I do like AEV's geometry, which usually only adds a tiny bit of backspace for clearance, and whatever width they feel is necessary.)BTW, what is the width of those AEV wheels? I'm running 255/85R16 Maxx's on 8" wheels, and though I wouldn't go wider, they don't look like they're stretched onto too wide a wheel. The sidewalls are basically straight.
C
D
Deleted member 9101
Guest
Looks like you either lost all four hubcaps or decided to use four spare tires.
SSF556
SE Expedition Society
A 1/2" hub centric spacer is going to be interesting... Are you going to put longer lug studs in to accommodate the extra 1/2"? You wouldn't have enough thread engagement otherwise... ??
Might be easier to see where the tires are rubbing, and either do a little bit of trimming if it's plastic, or if it's a flange, just flatten it. If it's a friendly surface anyway, then just don't worry about it, and back off the steer angle just a tad. ??
I do like the look of the steel wheels though. But I don't like typical aftermarket wheels either.
BTW, what is the width of those AEV wheels? I'm running 255/85R16 Maxx's on 8" wheels, and though I wouldn't go wider, they don't look like they're stretched onto too wide a wheel. The sidewalls are basically straight.
C
Good points....I bought a 5/16 spacer from the local AutoZone this morning and tried that and it removed all of the rubbing and the tire still was inside the fender. Actually it moved the tire/wheel just to the edge of the fender. There are some companies that will make you hubcentric spacers per your measurements for a cost though. I have a request in to see what they would charge.
The tires are rubbing on the inside frame at full opposite lock...like going in circles in a parking lot...everyday driving would be ok and I have done some other mods to make sure the AEVs and 265/70/17 would not rub....The rubbing area in question can't be beat or cut. And as part of some preventative maintenance I was going to change out the hubs front and rear anyway so pressing in some longer studs would not be that big of a deal and the longer studs would work on the AEV wheels as well.
The WK AEVs are a 8.5 inches wide...which is at the top end for a 255/75/17. The 2ply Duratracs may look different because of there soft sidewall compared to the Cooper ST Maxx 3ply. I will get the ST Maxxs mounted on the AEVs to see what they look like...but my goal is to get the wheels/tires back inside the fenders...not really digging the outside fender look anymore.
1stDeuce
Explorer
It is my humble opinion that replacing good parts as PM is sometimes a very BAD idea. For starters, there is no rear "hub unit" on your JKc only the outer axle bearings. IR&Ring the axle actually opens up the possibility of damaging seals. If they aren't leaking, and you change the rear axle lube once in a while, leave them alone until you have 200k+ on the thing. The front unit bearings I wouldn't change either, unless you're above the 200k mark, or it was in a flood or something like that. When unit bearings fail, they never just suddenly lock up or part ways, it always starts with a howl when you turn, then a constant howl, which gets progressively worse over thousands of miles. If yours are good, leave them. At least you know you won't have any "infant mortality" with the replacements. Pressing longer studs in either end should be fine, but is a big PITA.
I know that's strange advice about PM, but I've had bad luck several times when replacing perfectly good parts with new ones. I know, sucks to be me, but I've learned to leave things alone when they're working well.
My vehicles seem to reject parts that aren't needed.
Good luck!
SSF556
SE Expedition Society
It is my humble opinion that replacing good parts as PM is sometimes a very BAD idea. For starters, there is no rear "hub unit" on your JKc only the outer axle bearings. IR&Ring the axle actually opens up the possibility of damaging seals. If they aren't leaking, and you change the rear axle lube once in a while, leave them alone until you have 200k+ on the thing. The front unit bearings I wouldn't change either, unless you're above the 200k mark, or it was in a flood or something like that. When unit bearings fail, they never just suddenly lock up or part ways, it always starts with a howl when you turn, then a constant howl, which gets progressively worse over thousands of miles. If yours are good, leave them. At least you know you won't have any "infant mortality" with the replacements. Pressing longer studs in either end should be fine, but is a big PITA.
I know that's strange advice about PM, but I've had bad luck several times when replacing perfectly good parts with new ones. I know, sucks to be me, but I've learned to leave things alone when they're working well.
My vehicles seem to reject parts that aren't needed.
Good luck!
Thanks for the advice...no replacement parts have been bought at this time and if I do replace studs it will be done on the vehicle.
Last edited:
SSF556
SE Expedition Society
OK...little update...found a company called Motorsport-Tech in Sparks, NV..https://www.motorsport-tech.com that has some 10mm hubcentric spacers available. Got 4 of those on order, plus some longer wheels studs. So I guess this a go ahead with the steel wheels along with the Cooper ST Maxx.
Hi: I am building off an almost identical base rig Looking for ease of maintenance, light and durable for rims. Looking at beadlock options as well. Thinking of central air lock instead of mechanical. I have run Steel wheels before and think they look good, they have their own seriousness about them.