Torn CV Boot

irish_11

Explorer
Hi All,

Apologies in advance if this is an easy question. I have a tear in my CV boot so I know I need to replace the CV. I am wondering how long I can drive on it with the tear? I have to drive down to Portland from Seattle this weekend (about 400mi round trip) and was wondering if I should fix it before I go or if it would be ok to make the trip? I do not have a clicking noise and I haven't noticed any issues yet. I do get a vibration between 55-60mph but that could be the wheels/tires/other parts. Just looking for thoughts on this. If I need to do it tonight I think I can I just have to hunt down the tools/parts.

Thanks,
-Irish
 

java

Expedition Leader
You will be fine. Keep watching it for play. I drove a few k on mine with no issues. It started to get loose and i replaced it.

If it has just torn, you can always just do the boot.
 

Arktikos

Explorer
The torn boot may allow contaminants in that can cause premature wear of the axle, but since you're exclusively on highway I wouldn't worry about the drive. Wouldn't replace axle either, just boot.
 

Little Foot

Crawler/Overlander
Mechanic here...an open boot will do these things:
-Fling grease everywhere, potentially getting on belts causing a racket or belt slip. It could also get cooked on your exhaust and smell really bad and/or cause a smoldering effect (smoke)

-it will allow dirt and water to enter the cv boot at low speeds, at high speeds anything entering it will quickly spit out with your grease unless it gets stuck in the boot.

-eventually running with little to no grease will cause a burr in the CV joint and you will get a vibration at which point you will have to replace the joint or axle. This is a lot more expensive than regressing the joint and replacing the boot.

Now with that being said I've been running no boot on my mr2's right inner axle for around 10K now and everytime I do an oil change I put some grease in the bearings. The axle vibrates on acceleration and it did before the boot tire open. The only reason I think I get away with it is clean roads and the fact that it's an inner joint in the rear so it didn't turn, eliminating excessive wear. I don't recommend doing this, it has fling grease all over my drive belt and it is cracking prematurely due to being contaminated by the grease.

Long story short, you should fix it before you drive 400 miles unless you want to risk replacing the whole CV joint or limiting the life of a nearby component...but you should make the drive just fine if you don't.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

irish_11

Explorer
Thanks for the information everyone. The GF is going to drive her car and I am going to replace my CV. It has 198k on it, so I think it is time to go.
 

p nut

butter
Be sure to get a factory (or factory reman). Autozone/NAPA axles seem to get really bad reviews.
 

infra

n00b
Easier than replacing boots yourself is just swapping out the axle shaft with an OEM reman from CVJaxle. About $90 for an OEM reman and a $90 core charge you get back once you ship back axle shaft you took out. I've had a half shaft swapped out in under 30 minutes.

http://www.cvjreman.com/index.php
 

Little Foot

Crawler/Overlander
If there is no prior vibration coming from the axle I highly recommend rebooting it. At my shop I've had remanned axles give us problems before. Then we have to wait to return it and get another from the same company, wondering of we'll have the same issue. A bunch of stress and the car is down for more than double the time plus you have to do the work twice. Not that they are all bad, but no reason to replace a good axle just cause it's "easier" IMO. Rebooting an axle takes less than 5 minutes once you pull it assuming you've got a good vice, c-clip pliers, and perhaps a brass hammer and some dykes.


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austintaco

Explorer
You said it was clicking, so I would say, its time to replace the entire CV. There are threads all over about the quality of aftermarket CV's. Get an OEM or OEM refurbished. Napa used to carry another brand that was supposedly an OEM CV, but it was never confirmed.
 

FJR Colorado

Explorer
Looks like you have a lift?

If so, I suggest taking this opportunity to swap your boots for something with a softer, more flexible compound.

And if 1 CV went, the other may not be far behind.

And if you don't have a diff drop, maybe add that as well.

I had some initial problems on my 1st Gen Tundra after lifting. I was able to derive a permanent solution by way of the above remedies.
 

irish_11

Explorer
I think the lift might be the culprit as well. For anyone who has tried the non-OEM or rebuilt OEM CVs (ex Autozone, napa, etc.) how bad are they? I only ask because I have an autozone one as a trail spare that I am tempted to use. Should I hold out and get an OEM rebuild one? Id hate to have a part sitting around that I cannot use, but I would not like to do this a second time if I could do it right the first.
 

Arclight

SAR guy
Easier than replacing boots yourself is just swapping out the axle shaft with an OEM reman from CVJaxle. About $90 for an OEM reman and a $90 core charge you get back once you ship back axle shaft you took out. I've had a half shaft swapped out in under 30 minutes.

http://www.cvjreman.com/index.php

I would also recommend CJV Axle. They only rebuild factory shafts, and they are willing to install a real Toyota boot for an extra charge.

Arclight
 

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