3.8L timing belt change (gen 3)

The Viper

Adventurer
the cam on the passenger side will spring clockwise or counter clockwise from the timing mark.... just be ready for it it quickly rotate.

what do you mean "be ready for it"? Do I let it rotate a little and then turn it back to tdc or you mean try to stop it from turning?
 

The Viper

Adventurer
Here is a look at the genuine mitsubshi parts i ordered...you guys mentioned putting a spacer on the crankpulley bolt when putting it back in when the new timing belt is put on in order to turn everything a couple of revolutions, what kind of spacer do you guys use? washers or thread a nut on?
 

Attachments

  • 20150919_093940.jpg
    20150919_093940.jpg
    229.9 KB · Views: 18

nckwltn

Explorer
what do you mean "be ready for it"? Do I let it rotate a little and then turn it back to tdc or you mean try to stop it from turning?
There is a lot of energy in the cam.... I don't think it causes any issues to over rotate one notch either way. The timing mark only has to be off a degree or two before it will slip and spin. Its easy enough to put back in place with a wrench.

It will catch you off guard, and likely cause you to have to reposition the belt once or twice.

Just get all the timing marks lined up before removing the belt and make sure they are all lined up after putting the new one on and you'll be fine. Follow the FSM instruction's. I had never done a timing belt before and have since done it 4 times total. Twice on a 3.5 and twice on a 3.8. 10s of thousands of miles later on each and no issues.
 

The Viper

Adventurer
There is a lot of energy in the cam.... I don't think it causes any issues to over rotate one notch either way. The timing mark only has to be off a degree or two before it will slip and spin. Its easy enough to put back in place with a wrench.

It will catch you off guard, and likely cause you to have to reposition the belt once or twice.

Just get all the timing marks lined up before removing the belt and make sure they are all lined up after putting the new one on and you'll be fine. Follow the FSM instruction's. I had never done a timing belt before and have since done it 4 times total. Twice on a 3.5 and twice on a 3.8. 10s of thousands of miles later on each and no issues.

So...with the old belt on, rotate the engine via crankpulley bolt until alll 3 timing marks line up, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, remove old belt...now once you remove the old belt is that the point where the pass cam is gonna want to rotate, or once you start threading the new belt on? and when that happens, i just rotate it back to tdc...now will it want to keep rotating once i move it back to the timing mark?
 

nckwltn

Explorer
So...with the old belt on, rotate the engine via crankpulley bolt until alll 3 timing marks line up, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, remove old belt...now once you remove the old belt is that the point where the pass cam is gonna want to rotate, or once you start threading the new belt on? and when that happens, i just rotate it back to tdc...now will it want to keep rotating once i move it back to the timing mark?
That's the process... More or less...

The belt will hold the cam in place, when it comes off, it can then turn.


Replace the tensioner too... Youll have to remove it to reset it anyway
 

The Viper

Adventurer
That's the process... More or less...

The belt will hold the cam in place, when it comes off, it can then turn.


Replace the tensioner too... Youll have to remove it to reset it anyway

yep im replacing the tensioner, thankfully i dont have to reset that (or measure the protrusion?), just pull the pin, when everything is lined up and tensioner pully bolt is tightened (replacing the tensioner pulley too)
 

nckwltn

Explorer
yep im replacing the tensioner, thankfully i dont have to reset that (or measure the protrusion?), just pull the pin, when everything is lined up and tensioner pully bolt is tightened (replacing the tensioner pulley too)

you install everything... wait like 5 minutes.. the pin should take zero force to remove... it's crazy, thats how it works.. and it does work
 

The Viper

Adventurer
Do you guys start the belt the same way the fsm recommends? starting at the crankshaft and working counter clockwise
 

BEG

Adventurer
Do you guys start the belt the same way the fsm recommends? starting at the crankshaft and working counter clockwise

I do. Line up the crank timing marks and thread the belt on. Turn the crank about one tooth counterclockwise to give yourself some slack, thread the belt over the driver's side cam and secure it with a binder clip. Turn the driver's side cam a hair counterclockwise (this one doesn't jump as much as the passenger side cam) to give yourself a bit of slack for the other cam, thread it on and clip it. Line up all the timing marks. Simultaneously turn the crank clockwise and the passenger side cam counter clockwise to take all the slack out of the driver's side of the belt. Now you should be ready to set the tension.
 

kbahus

Adventurer
For those looking to tackle this job, I found a counter-hold tool for the crankshaft that looks like it will work well and is cheap ($17 from Tooltopia). Gearwrench 3900 is the model, also found as KDT3900 and labeled as a universal fan clutch holder. The pins that it comes with could be bigger, but they will get the job done. Larger pins can be purchased from Gearwrench as well. It's a pretty hefty tool and for the price I couldn't find anything better, not even on Snap On or Matco trucks.
 

Attachments

  • 20151103_125916.jpg
    20151103_125916.jpg
    323.2 KB · Views: 27

The Viper

Adventurer
So I still have to do my timing belt and components, hoping to do it in the next couple months...I originally bought the Dayco timing belt kit, but after reading another thread, I got scared, and decided to buy the OE hydraulic tensioner.

My next question is in regards to the water pump. The one in the Dayco kit is a GMB...is that a reputable water pump manufacturer?

I think the AISIN is OE...how about the Gates made water pump, its half the cost of the aisin

Thanks
 

normal_dave

waytoomuchwritinginposts.
For my '02 I ordered the Aisin kit from RockAuto. Everything was from the OEM, except the belt which was a MitsubOshi, (spelled correctly) which is an OEM for multiple Japanese manufacturers and is reportedly a good quality unit. Oh and Aisin pump, Koyo tensioner, Koyo idler, gaskets. Just put a similar kit on my daughters Accord, good stuff. For the record, last time on our '03 Sport, I used an OEM belt, aftermarket pump, and kept the original tensioner and idler. Won't be doing that on the next interval which is coming up soon!

Here's what they have for the '03 at $ 211.00 for the kit.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3472833&cc=1417250&jsn=364
 

The Viper

Adventurer
@normal_dave, thanks for the info.

Well I found out GMB makes quality waterpumps (they are a Japanese company), they make water pumps for gates, and I read they make tensioners for Mitsubishi, so I'll just stick with the gmb.

The tensioner and idler pulley in the dayco kit are made in Korea and seem pretty high quality.

I guess the last thing to decide as far as components are concerned, is to stick with the dayco belt or pickup a gates one. I hear dayco makes good timing belts and is even oem for some manufacturers.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,801
Messages
2,921,061
Members
232,931
Latest member
Northandfree
Top