Water-tight external connections? (Solar Feed in, etc)

[Herbie]

Has anyone found a decent weather-tight connection inlet for making temporary solar (or other DC) connections?

I have my panels in a removable rack, so I can move them around as needed. I currently use an "extension" cable with Powerpole connectors and just feed it in through the tilt-window on the driver's side. However I'm at the point where I'd sort of prefer a dedicated connector panel. Already cut a big hole in the roof, so why not a few more in the side of the van?

I see lots of plastic AC inlet housings (and a few stainless ones from marine stuff) for RVs - all sorts of plug in, or twist-to-lock like these:

Shockingly, I haven't come across much in the way of external DC-connections, though. I'd love to find something for solar feed-in and for 12V output (for running lights on the awning, etc.)
Looking at the BlueSea and Marinco 12V sockets, for example, I see they have covers but they appear to be "dust" covers and I'm not sure they're "water proof".

Anyone have other sources to check?


EDIT: Ok, it looks like Marinco's stuff may be weather-tight when closed. I might be able to use the trolling-motor connector system as a Solar feed-in.

 

[jwilson2598]

For my fridge, I used a Minn Kota trolling motor plug and it works great, also waterproof. I used dot be uses it accommodates larger wire, which is what I wanted for the fridge.


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[228B]

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I got the idea to use 12V trolling motor plugs for PV input from another teardrop trailer camper. I'm using 10 ga. copper stranded 2-conductor landscape cable (about .98/ft at Home Depo.t). I wound up using a two-blade twist-lock Marinco; very similar to the MinnKota (although I did not see a two-blade plug/socket combo offered by MinnKota on Amazo.n) I have the standard solar MC4 connectors on the opposite end of each 25' extension. I also made up a 12' extension. The length is not an issue for volt drop (about 3% loss) and especially not when two panels are connected in series producing a nominal 24V input.
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I use two 100W Renogy monocrystalline panels, and depending on cloud cover, potential for panel shading throughout the day or how much voltage I want to send to the Morningstar charge controller, I'll connect one or two panels... and when two panels I'll either run them separately (to chase the sun without having to interrupt the charge sequence) in parallel or together in series through one 10 ga copper extension.
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8 ga marine stranded copper runs from each bulkhead fitting to the charge controller.
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The larger covered connector is a 120V shore input; also a Marinco piece.
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[DaveNay]

Personally, I would (and am planning to) use Amphenol bulkhead connectors. These would be very similar to the connectors mentioned by Verkstad.

The biggest advantage for any of these three connectors is you can get a truly waterproof/weatherproof cover that will protect everything when not in use.

 

[Dr. Cornwallis]

Would these Amphenol connectors work for a dual battery setup where I wanted to be able to quickly disconnect the second battery? Anderson connectors were recommended but at a glance these actually look better as I would like to put the receptacle in the bed and these are waterproof.


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[DaveNay]

Would these Amphenol connectors work for a dual battery setup where I wanted to be able to quickly disconnect the second battery? Anderson connectors were recommended but at a glance these actually look better as I would like to put the receptacle in the bed and these are waterproof.


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Amphenol connectors can bu used for anything from discreet data acquisition connections to digital signals to high voltage/high current power distribution.

 

[DaveNay]

I just realized that Bendix and Amphenol are the same thing.

 

[Robert Bills]

Has anyone found a decent weather-tight connection inlet for making temporary solar (or other DC) connections?

Perhaps something like this?

https://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=PK12800&pc2=PK12801

 

[AndrewP]

How important is a "water tight connection" in a low voltage situation? Likely, not very. I would not spend a lot of time stressing on this. Think about your landscaping low voltage wiring. It isn't water tight. I'd do your best to keep corrosion at a minimum, but if it's just rain, I would not worry too much about it.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

How important is a "water tight connection" in a low voltage situation?

I think the more important issue is water leakage into the interior of the vehicle, with a connection that can be connected/disconnected as needed.

 

[JHa6av8r]

How important is a "water tight connection" in a low voltage situation? Likely, not very. I would not spend a lot of time stressing on this. Think about your landscaping low voltage wiring. It isn't water tight. I'd do your best to keep corrosion at a minimum, but if it's just rain, I would not worry too much about it.

Totally agree about keeping it simple. Seems there's a lot of over engineering of which I'm not immune. Why not use an SAE solar plug? Haven't had any issues and it's on the roof of my camper. The cost is about $14 for the plug and receptacle.
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[Herbie]

I think the more important issue is water leakage into the interior of the vehicle, with a connection that can be connected/disconnected as needed.

Yes, this is the part I was thinking of. Since I was considering punching yet another hole in the van (this time directly through a side panel), I figured that interface shouldn't let water in.

 

[Arclight]

You could just install a weatherproof electrical outlet cover from Home Depot and whatever non-waterproof bulkhead connector under that. Does it need to be waterproof when in use, or just in storage?

Arclight

 

[pugslyyy]

For permanent passthroughs (without a connector) I use BlueSea CableClams. (for roof solar, antenna, lights, etc)

 

[IdaSHO]

I prefer water tight cable glands over clams, then overcoated with roof coating, and MC4 connections to make things removable/modular