The Rolling Restoration & Customization Of My 88' Range Rover Classic

[rrclassicbt550]

Jon,

I have water coming in my fresh air intake seal, and I saw that you figured out how to remedy that situation. Hopefully I've included the correct picture from post #11, but how does the fresh air intake (or vent door) into the heater unit keep water out while it's operating? Does the vent door open and close based on input from the AC/heater circuit, or is it controlled some other way?

I saw that you figured out how to reseal it - were you able to change out the seal by pulling the cowl, or did you have to drop the heater unit?

Howdy Sir,

It has been awhile, how have you been?

The door is vacuum operated by a little vacuum actuater on the left side of the heater box assembly. You should be able to check by pulling off the lower dash panel and looking about halfway up on the side of the heater box. It is attached a metal arm, pull up and down on the arm too check if there is a leak in it. It should be closed when the vehicle is off because the vacuum from the engine is the only way to open it. It should fail in the closed position if it breaks, but if there is a leak in the vacuum actuator the ram air effect of driving could push it open and let water in. Also if the foam on the vent door is perished or the seal between the heater box and the inside cowl/scuttle area is damaged or perished it could let water in.

To change the foam on the vent door could be done without pulling anything other than just cowl but you will need a little ingenuity to get it fit properly. I used foam tape and scraper. The actuator could also be changed without having to take everything out. As for the seal between the heater box and cowl, that will require pulling the heater box assembly....which means pulling darn near the whole dash apart.

There is one more thing that it could be, the heater core. If the heater core goes, it can also leak down into the foot wells in a very similar way. Even if it is not the heater core leaking....replace it anyway because getting that far into you dashboard is not something your going to want do again for a quite a while. Not to mention, change out your heater core hoses at the same time. That job will cost you skin just to access the hose clips and then will make you bleed to get the hoses off. So just do it all at once so you don't have to worry about it again. If you want pictures to refer to, I have the entire process posted on here somewhere around the time I did the Lizard Skin install, not sure of the exact post number.

 

[rrclassicbt550]

I've enjoyed this thread very much. Great work.

Thank you very much! I am very glad to hear it!

 

[rrclassicbt550]

I hear you Ken that is a very big part of why I
bought and started working on my Rover in the first place.

Thanks for the link, looks interesting, I will definitely be taking some notes from it.

The fellow in South Africa did a good job but the use of a Chevy transmission is easier from some standpoints but more difficult from others. I have thought about going with an Ashcroft trans but not sure if I want to spend that much, or just give it a go at rebuilding and strengthening the spare LR transfer I have. Still just thinking it over....Ideally I would love a 6 speed automatic that is strong, mechanically controlled, and that I can make work with the LT230, but I haven't found anything suitable yet.

Tire size for me has changed I was happy with my current setup until I installed the long range fuel tank and lost ground clearance. I am thinking it needs to go up a little bit more now so I don't drag my tank over everything. I am thinking of a 4 inches of lift instead of the 3 inches I have now and then moving up to 33's. As for the toughness of the axles....well I have a fairly controversial plan for that....so I would hold off on those trutrac until after you see what I will do. That is a ways down the road though.

Jon, actually the planning and scheming is part of the fun : ) At first I was thinking I would just buy something and put it in if it worked. But actually a lot of what I'm getting out of this is the chance to learn how things work. What I listed in my previous post was the first time for most of that stuff, figured it out by trial and error and looking on the internet!

That's why for the 6.2l, I'm somewhat leaning towards building up a 6.2L/6.5L hybrid engine - from magnafluxing block on up. As noted various places on the net, then use the strong parts from the 6.2L and the heads from the 6.5l. I like the idea of that girdle to keep the case from cracking, headers and/or turbo, serpentine belt conversion and a couple of must have's for me if I'm going to use this for long distances in hot climates - A/C, and cruise control. BTW found this link of a guy who successfully fitted CC on the 6.2l in his hummer:

http://www.redhummer.com/myhummer/cruise_control/

As for transmission I read the information on that link you found from the guy in (South Africa?). I definitely want full transmission lockup, but I don't know enough to know which is best way to go - was kind of thinking I might piggyback off you : )

Regarding ratios, my 235/85 r16's are just a hair under 32", let's say 32". With the 4.2L and stock gearing I can definitely feel the slight lag from bigger tires, though still cruise around fine enough though it's mostly flat here in LA - haven't done any big grades. I want to put Tru-Trac's diff's front and back as I think best compromise for expedition and fixes the weakest part, if I go with the diesel maybe this tire size/standard ratio works fine because of the low end torque, I don't know.

A lot of thinking to do, looking forward to seeing what you've got cooking!
-Ken

 

[SupaRover]

Ha ha, funny about the lift. I did the 2" and now that I'm thinking about a heavier diesel plus since I have the LWB, was thinking to move up to 3" : ) I have the 3-degree front radius arms so they are still useful for a 3-inch lift and wouldn't have to screw with that. We'll see, I haven't even broken in the 2" ones!

That's great re: IBS dual-battery system - that was the exact one I had settled on in my mind, especially like the story of the guy making the product so he would never get stuck in the middle of nowhere again.

As for tank the stock one is leaking from somewhere on top - I was told by the local shop that they are plastic and once cracked (or whatever makes them leak) - they can't be replaced. I did check Lucky8 re: Safari equipe before, that may be the way I'll go. I was really liking the Brown Davis ones out of Australia as they had a little more capacity, but they also had a drain plug and go into a little more in-depth about how they put their tanks together. Problem is because of liability issues with US, they decided not to import them for now. There are some local (meaning local in Australia) companies that might be able to work something out, will have to tackle this soon. I read through your tank installation, yes hoping it drops right in on the LWB.

Seat warmers, I'll probably just leave that alone, not that crucial especially here in SoCal. BUT what does bother me about the stock seats is the seat bottoms are a little SHORT, you can kind of feel them cut off your circulation and I think for a long trip that will be very irritating. I have a '99 merc turbodiesel I drove across country and seat was awesome, not even the tiniest ache. Had an old '81 Merc Turbodiesel and it was like sitting in a comfortable couch - just awesome seats. I don't really want to change the RRC's as they are in perfect condition and all the leather matches, have been trying to concoct some way to rig an extension or something that didn't look crappy. This isn't a priority, just something that bugs me a little bit and sticking in my brain!

So I've been doing extreme web surfing this weekend (okay, I've been wasting a lot of time : ) on 6.2l/6.5 hybrid builds and the whole tranny idea - I like the specs you're calling out but see nothing like that so far. I like automatic, I definitely don't want a 3-spd auto that's buzzing at the end of it's rope @55mph. Also would be great if I didn't have to change too much re: transfer case, new shafts no big deal though. I'm really curious about your idea and game for anything, sounds good.

I've found some 6.2l military take outs, may just go for it and enjoy the time learning and scouring for cheapest parts - and hope you find some way to get the Millenium Falcon Hyperdive transmission figured out for our rigs : )

This is fun, thanks again for all your detailed sharing!
-Ken

 

[SupaRover]

Bought a 6.2L JCode 599 engine

Hey Guys,

Well I found this on Craigslist for $250 and decided to jump into the unknown with both feet. It's a JCode (non-EGR)/599 block 6.2L engine that was in a Suburban - and attached to it were all the accessories like AC, starter, alternator, even a block heater, as well as TH400 transmission, transfer case, even the drive shafts! It was a real pain, took me over 10 hours driving and I needed a whole extra day of trailer rental because I had to try to get it out by myself - in the end had to unbolt the transmission to break it down a bit. BTW, you can tell the 599 block by the stamped code, and JCode by the intake which doesn't have the EGR stuff on it and is one open hole with no divider as opposed to the EGR one that is divided in half. That's what I understand from reading off the internet anyway.

Next step is to get an engine stand, tear it down and have the block Magnafluxed to check for cracks and see if it's usable. Fear is water most likely was sitting in some of the cylinders as it was left outside with no cover on intake. When I disconnected part of the exhaust off the manifold some white flaky crud dropped out. Well we'll see!

Enjoy,
Ken

 

[SupaRover]

Actually, that last picture with the white flaky crud is from one of the radiator hose connections to the block - not sure which direction it flows but there is crud in there nonetheless. From the manifolds was rusty bits.

 

[sydneyman]

any updates? this was an epic thread!

 

[rrclassicbt550]

Hello Sydneyman,

Thank you very much for the compliment, I really appreciate it.

I haven't really done too much with the Rover since my last post in this thread. I still haven't even installed the winch, which is just about ready to go in.
Just after my last post I bought my first home/farm; since then, my time and money have vanished. I have been so busy in the last year trying to renovate the house, get the shop organized/functional, plus get the farm up and running that I have not had the time or the energy to spend on the Rover.

I really miss working on it and I am hoping to get some time to work on it toward the end of this winter, I am sure it is not what everyone wants to hear, but I have a few other projects that are in front of the Rover at the moment.

For now, the Rover has been my daily driver and a big help for getting things done around the farm.



I did manage to clear enough time to do the trailer wiring on the Rover, I will post a quick write up on that tonight. I will also post a quick update on where I am at with the 6.2 Diesel swap.

Sorry everyone for such a long hiatus on this thread, free time is not something I have had very much of in the last year. I will try to be more diligent about updating the thread.

Side Note: One of the projects I am going to be doing before I get back to working on my Rover, is doing a conversion/build of a M116A2 military trailer and finishing up a nearly done restoration of an late 60's 8ft Alaskan Camper which will go on the trailer.

I will post the link, both here and in my signature area when I get started on it all. I need to have it functional enough to go camping in Yosemite for Thanksgiving this year. So I will be getting to work on it pretty soon. I am really looking forward to getting back to working on projects with the extra space of my new shop.

Have a good one,
Jon

any updates? this was an epic thread!

 

[rrclassicbt550]

Trailer wiring...

Hello everyone,

It has been a long time since I posted the status of my Rover, so here it goes. It is running fine, I had a couple small issues with it over this last year, nothing major. I had a leak in one of my power steering hoses, I took it out and had it rebuilt for $60 by a local hydraulic hose business, put it back in, and it worked perfectly. The second thing was, my left rear window decided to go on strike while in the down position, it took me about 10 minutes to fix what ended up being a faulty rear window switch (the one in the door itself, not the center console). I just borrowed the switch from the other door to get it to roll back up, and viola, "crisis" averted. Interesting that the back windows won't roll up or down if one of the two switch (center console and door) is not in fully working order, I am glad I learned about the trick on a day when it was not raining. Other than those two small issues, the Rover has been working well.

Now, to the things I have done to it. Other than doing the routine maintenance, and those couple fixes, I manage to get some time to do the trailer wiring a few months ago. It is not 100% complete but it is 90% done. I have to run a wire that signals the trailer's "trailer brakes". Although Land Rover did leave a connector for a trailer plug option, it did leave a lot to be desired (as did their wiring diagrams and instructions).

I do a lot of research before doing any work on/modifications to my Rover, and it so happens that I was lucky enough to find this fellows page over on Discoweb showing a trailer wiring diagram for a Discovery trailer connector to a "Uhaul taillight 3 to 2 wire converter".
Here is the link: http://www.discoweb.org/uhaul/index.htm it helped me out greatly.

I chose to go with the Uhaul converter because I decided I was not going to pay $90 for a LR genuine converter. I not only could get the Uhaul converter for $19, but I was going to have to cut the wiring harness anyway, because I want the ability to have a 7 pin round connector plug too. I also wanted it to be neat and clean, rather than hanging down like most of the 4 pin connectors do.

I bought these:
7 pin/4 pin mounted socket
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NYYREC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Wiring harness for the mounted socket
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-40985...xgy_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=06HVEX6RNGBJ6NZJA2RR

Uhaul 3 to 2 converter (couldn't get it online, had to buy it at the store)
http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/category/Tail-Light-Converter?id=788

Mounting the trailer socket was easy, I did have to bend the bracket a bit to get the socket situated so it would look stock rather than out of place (I think I achieved that quite well, if I don't say so myself). the trailer socket wiring harness was then fed through the bumper over into the right rear tail light. All of that was easy, the "fun" began when I started doing the actual wiring itself.

For those of you who have not heard this before I will try to help you with the..."experience"...I chalked up during this little project. In all of my initial research, I never came across any information that said I couldn't just wire the trailer socket straight to the Rover's trailer connector. I thought "this is going to be easy, might be a couple little bumps in the road while trying to figure out which wire is supposed to do a particular feature, but all in all it shouldn't be too bad...at most it is a couple hour project). I was wrong....

Here is the thing, I did not know that when a vehicle has a separate taillight and turn signal, they can't really be wired up to either of those connectors (4pin or 7pin) very well. I got it semi legal (meaning I had turn signals and brakes but it was a "one or the other, not both" situation and that won't really due. I am not sure how I missed this glaring fault in my plans when I did all of my research, but there you have it...stymied by the Land Rover wiring once again. Nothing to do but admit temporary defeat, so I tucked my tail firmly between my legs, called it a night, and retreated back into the house so I could do a bit more research.

That night I found that wonderful link on Discoweb, (http://www.discoweb.org/uhaul/index.htm) and the next morning armed with this "new" information, I went and bought the Uhaul converter. The "taillight 3 to 2 converter" in this case made by Uhaul, takes those 3 pesky wires that control the night-time running lights, brake lights, and turn signals, then combines them into a nice 2 wire package that both the socket wiring and trailer's wiring will like.

At this point I am thinking "Right, I have got this handled, i have got the right part, and a wiring diagram, its in the bag now". I was wrong...again....
Turns out LR must have a sense of humor, because they put more wires back there then was strictly necessary for what I had to do, sooo, out came to Big Book O'Land Rover (the book in which i spend more time looking for the right page and diagram, than I actually do working on the darn project). After some choice words, head scratching, and many MANY pages of looking I finally found SOME information not a lot, but some information is better than none. The rest I had to actually test what wire did what, with my volt meter. I know some of you out there are going to be looking at your computer screen, thinking "Oh that is easy", then list off exactly which wire does what, but unfortunately you and I were not in contact that day so this mind-numbing and patience fraying way is how I had to do it.






In this picture you can see the sum of my notes for what each wire for the Rover does and what each wire for the trailer socket does.

Here is the Uhaul converter wired in along with a few extra bits wired in as well. I still need to figure out how to get signal for the trailer brakes. If anyone out there has any advice I would really appreciate it.

All neatly tucked away.

I think it looks pretty close to a "factory look". I do realize that I need to weld a plate onto the bottom of the hitch for the safety chains to hook up to, but that will come in the next few weeks.

No time to hang around for too long to admire the handy work, straight to work hauling one of my many workbenches to the new shop.

I will have to post the list of stuff on the 6.2 swap tomorrow or Tuesday because its getting fairly late and I need some sleep. I hope this post helps to tide you all over until then.

Have a good one,
Jon

 

[rrclassicbt550]

An update on where I am with the 6.2 diesel swap...

Hello everyone,

A quick status on where I am at with the 6.2 diesel swap. Believe it or not, I am still collecting parts and doing research. The most important part I still need to get is the adaptor that will go between the transmission and the transfer case.

Here are some of the parts I have right now:


Mil-Spec "J-Code" 6.2 with 5000 original miles on it

6-Speed Allison 1000 out of a 2008 or later Chevrolet 2500, I also got the torque converter, and flex plate too (mileage unknown)

1994 Defender LT230 Transfer Case (mileage unknown)

On the left are the factory 6.2 motor mounts
Also on the left is a factory Allison 1000 transmission mount
On the top is a NOS Mil-Spec deep fording oil dipstick and tube for the 6.2
Just below that is a set of upgraded and much more reliable rocker arm sets
Then a Phazer gear drive timing set
Next to that is a high flow "V-belt" water pump
Below that is the Allison 1000 flex plate
On the right is a dual thermostat housing with two new thermostats
Also a set of ARP head studs
And last but definitely not least is a Fluidampr

This isn't every part I have, but its is a good glimpse into where I am going with it. I am going to completely rebuild the 6.2, balance the internals, port match and smooth the heads, smooth the block, open up the oil returns, rebuild the fuel pump, and basically make the 6.2 as efficient/reliable as possible. I am also going to be rebuilding the LT230 transfer case and will do some upgrades to that too. As for the Allison 1000, I am not entirely sure if I am going to rebuild it myself or have it done professionally, but nevertheless I will be upgrading that as well in order to make it as efficient/reliable as possible. With the whole drivetrain I am not looking for extravagant amounts of power or to minutely trick it out. I just want it to be as solid and dependable as I can make it while trying to squeeze the best fuel efficiency out of it at the same time.

As I have done in the past, I will be posting write ups that go into more detail when I can actually get some free time to do these things. I am hoping to be able to buy an adaptor after the first of the year, but for now I am just going to keep gathering other parts slowly but surely.

As a side note, I also bought a completely new Painless wiring harness for the Rover, which I hope to be doing at the same time as the Diesel swap, I want to evict Lucas, and clean up/streamline the wiring of the Rover to make it easier to live with in the long run.

Like I said, this isn't the complete collection of everything I have, it is more a showing of my intent. I am really looking forward to getting in and working on this project. With the gear ratios, shift points, power band, and tire size I want to run, I am hoping to be looking at mid to high 20's in the mpg area; which will get me closer to my goal of a 1000 mile range with my 32 gallon long range fuel tank plus one 5 gallon jerry can.

Alright everyone I am going to get some sleep.

Have a good one!
Jon

 

[getlost4x4]

how good is the 6.2L? I'm looking to swap something into my 93 LWB. I have an LT230 locking version from a D2. I just need an engine and transmission. I can't decided which way to go. Is the engine strong enough to put a turbo on it for some extra power?

 

[rrclassicbt550]

To be honest I don't have any seat time with a 6.2. If you want someone who has had seat time with the 6.2, LtFuzz, Redrover, and R-overland would be your best bet for how powerful it feels. If you are looking for a Turbo version, you could go with the 6.5l TD. The 6.2 can take a turbo but I wouldn't recommend cranking up the boost too much without building the motor to be strong enough.

The 6.2 has some common faults, broken cranks, cracked blocks, and blown head gaskets. The crank issues is usually down to an owner not changing out the vibration damper as part of their maintenance. If it starts failing, then the vibrations pick up and then they will end up with a broken crank, cracked block, or both. The blown head gaskets can cause by overheating. These can go for a number of reasons, a couple are: cooling system either has not been maintained which reduces its efficiency which then pops the gaskets or the last time someone did the head gaskets, they reused the same bolts which are special "torque to yield" bolts that can only be used once. A fluidampr will take care of the vibrations permanently, so much less likely to break a crank or crack a block. A high flow water pump, dual thermostats, correct size radiator, dual electric fans, waterless coolant, and a properly sized exhaust system fitted with a pyrometer guage will help keep the temperature down. They ARP studs will take care of having to deal with torque to yield bolts.

The thing about the 6.2 over other diesels is that it generally has a much lower entry cost to get into doing a diesel swap. I got mine for $900, others have paid more and or less. As for the transmission, you could use the factory LR transmission, but it will eventually go out, the shift points aren't right, and you still will have to get an adapter. By going with the Allison 1000, its pretty strong, has all the right gears, will bolt right up to the 6.2 with no adaptor, which should make it much easier and cheaper to install. It is really up to your specific preference though. If you are looking for a huge amount of power, you could go with a Duramax or a Cummins 6BT mated up to the Allison 1000, that would get you a lot of power and decent mpg's but they will cost significantly more.

If you go with the 6.5l diesel, you will have more power than a 6.2 and still have a reasonable entry price while still having a shot at good mpg's. Like I said before though, the decision is up to your preferences and your end goals.

I hope I answered your question properly.

Have a good one!
Jon

how good is the 6.2L? I'm looking to swap something into my 93 LWB. I have an LT230 locking version from a D2. I just need an engine and transmission. I can't decided which way to go. Is the engine strong enough to put a turbo on it for some extra power?

 

[94Discovery]

To be honest I don't have any seat time with a 6.2. If you want someone who has had seat time with the 6.2, LtFuzz, Redrover, and R-overland would be your best bet for how powerful it feels. If you are looking for a Turbo version, you could go with the 6.5l TD. The 6.2 can take a turbo but I wouldn't recommend cranking up the boost too much without building the motor to be strong enough.

The 6.2 has some common faults, broken cranks, cracked blocks, and blown head gaskets. The crank issues is usually down to an owner not changing out the vibration damper as part of their maintenance. If it starts failing, then the vibrations pick up and then they will end up with a broken crank, cracked block, or both. The blown head gaskets can cause by overheating. These can go for a number of reasons, a couple are: cooling system either has not been maintained which reduces its efficiency which then pops the gaskets or the last time someone did the head gaskets, they reused the same bolts which are special "torque to yield" bolts that can only be used once. A fluidampr will take care of the vibrations permanently, so much less likely to break a crank or crack a block. A high flow water pump, dual thermostats, correct size radiator, dual electric fans, waterless coolant, and a properly sized exhaust system fitted with a pyrometer guage will help keep the temperature down. They ARP studs will take care of having to deal with torque to yield bolts.

The thing about the 6.2 over other diesels is that it generally has a much lower entry cost to get into doing a diesel swap. I got mine for $900, others have paid more and or less. As for the transmission, you could use the factory LR transmission, but it will eventually go out, the shift points aren't right, and you still will have to get an adapter. By going with the Allison 1000, its pretty strong, has all the right gears, will bolt right up to the 6.2 with no adaptor, which should make it much easier and cheaper to install. It is really up to your specific preference though. If you are looking for a huge amount of power, you could go with a Duramax or a Cummins 6BT mated up to the Allison 1000, that would get you a lot of power and decent mpg's but they will cost significantly more.

If you go with the 6.5l diesel, you will have more power than a 6.2 and still have a reasonable entry price while still having a shot at good mpg's. Like I said before though, the decision is up to your preferences and your end goals.

I hope I answered your question properly.

Have a good one!
Jon

Suscribed
My question to you why you went with a fully mechanical engine and a ecu controlled transmission ?
And how r u gonna control it ?
Is it only for the cost ?
Does the transmission fit in the tunel of the rrc?
Thankx

 

[sydneyman]

wow thats an inpressive drivetrain! Thanks for the update, i look forward to more when you get the time!

 

[rrclassicbt550]

Hello,

I chose the fully mechanical engine because of its simplicity and its ability to run on darn near any kind of fuel. As RedRover has proven, it can run on many types of fuel, and I head from a Veteran that he and some guys got bored while deployed and tried running one on cheap beer...he said "It ran like crap, but it still ran.". It is just nice to know I have options if I get stuck someplace. After many MANY hours of research looking at Land Rover, Ford, Volvo, and Chevrolet transmissions, I gave up on a fully mechanical 6 speed transmission with all of the gear ratios I want. So, it was then back through all of that research looking for a ECU controlled 6 speed that I could get a stand alone ECU for, that has the right gear ratios for me, that is more than strong enough for my plans of power, is reliable and/or can be upgraded to be reliable, and has the least amount of modification to fit into the drivetrain I want.
The Allison 1000:
-Comes in a 6speed
-I can get a stand alone ECU for it and because of the 6.2's power band being somewhat similar to a Cummins I was told I can get the ECU set for a Cummins so I don't have to pay for a custom tune
-It has shift points that should be good and gear ratios are even better than I could have hoped for (1st:3.10 2nd:1.81 3rd:1.41 4th:1.00 5th:0.71 6th:0.61 & R:4.49)
-It was designed to go behind the 6.6L Duramax which is 300+ hp & 600+ ft. lbs. of torque, so my 6.2L's 165hp and 330ft. lbs. of torque should be well within its capabilities to handle
-It does have a few issues from the factory, but upgrade kits can be purchased quite readily to fix those problems and as stated before I am not going to be pushing the limits of the Allisons capabilities so upgrades are more to help me sleep at night when I am in the middle of no-where.
-As if all of the previous weren't good enough, as far as I am aware, I don't have to modify anything to bolt the Allison to the 6.2L. I have been told it will bolt straight on and I can even use the Duramax flex plate.
-On top of even that good news is that there is an adapter for the 6L80E to an LT230, I actually got a chance to check one out in person and the rear gasket of an Allison 1000 is the same as the 6L80E. I also did quite a few more measurements to check that it would fit and other than the output shafts being a little different (the Allison shaft was bigger) it should work perfectly. A custom shaft would have to be made but considering that is all that I would have to worry about getting, it is was an easy choice to pick the Allison 1000.

The cost, I got the Allison for $1200 with no core charge. The miles are unknown, but it doesn't really matter because I want it to be rebuilt anyway.

As for the RRC's transmission tunnel, well...I hope it will fit. I might do a 1" body lift if that will help it clear, otherwise I may have to modify it a bit. I REALLY hope it doesn't come to that thought, because of all the LizardSkin I laid down inside; I don't want to have to do that over again. I think the main thing to worry about will be length, its not much longer, but I may have to go to a disc brake style transfer case brake to make everything fit.

I hope that answers your questions.

Have a good one!
Jon

Suscribed
My question to you why you went with a fully mechanical engine and a ecu controlled transmission ?
And how r u gonna control it ?
Is it only for the cost ?
Does the transmission fit in the tunel of the rrc?
Thankx