1980 Ford F-250 Build Thread (Clydesdale)

[Stark in the Wild]

Hi all,

Someone suggested I start a build thread for this 1980 Ford F250 I just picked up. After watching too much top gear and Roadkill my roommate and I flew up to Seattle bought this truck unseen in Seattle for $900 then drove it 900 miles back to home. It didn't break down once apart from the fact that it needed a new battery within the first 10 miles. We got it home and now I will set to work. I must admit ahead of time this is going to be a SLOW build and, if you couldn't tell by the initial buy point, will be done on an extreme budget! Mostly just to see if we can but also because I have a project muscle car that is my priority.

Anyways enough with the BS lets get down to this things specs:
4.9 liter 6 cylinder (bigger than the V8 in my classic mustang ?)
4 on the floor
4 cylinder with locking diffs and low range
Bench seat (was a must in the initial purchase)
Hole in floor the size of a cantaloupe
7 foot bed
custom paint (super faded)

Initial plans:
Mexican blanket seat covers
Replace intake/exhaust gasket
Newer exhaust manifold
New 2 barrel intake and carburetor
Fix leaks
Light Bar
Fog Lights
Roof Top Tent (this is where my budget demands won't extend to)
Bed rack (will make myself)
Bumpers (still tbd the exact plan)
Winch

Some Photos:

 

[Stark in the Wild]

First thing is first I need this thing running much smoother and I need it to pass the dreaded California smog emissions .

Exhaust has a MASSIVE leak in it. So i got an exhaust manifold from a 1987 F250 (it fits) a new gasket and a better exhaust to replace the section that was rusted/leaking. This job is currently in progress and the engine is in pieces. Some photos below of the maintenance work. Problem with old things (especially when they are this cheap) is that you have to make them work before you can start to get to the fun stuff that is upgrades. But such is life!

 

[Stark in the Wild]

Honestly I couldn't just do maintenance work without a little fun. I bought some cheap fog lights on amazon for $30 (dont hate for balling on a budget!).

I drilled some holes in the bumper and threw them on. They are WAY better than the stock headlights and shockingly light up the road very well. Much better than I expected. But I also had to make a custom switch panel since the ones online are like $100. So here are some photos of my rudimentary fabrication skills.

Who doesn't like a cool aviation style switch surrounded by brushed aluminum! I threw on a couple more than needed for future things (trying to plan ahead).

 

[Halligan]

Build on a budget isn't a bad thing. As long as you get out there and have fun who cares how much your lights, tires or suspension cost. Good luck with the build.

 

[Stark in the Wild]

Build on a budget isn't a bad thing. As long as you get out there and have fun who cares how much your lights, tires or suspension cost. Good luck with the build.

Thats exactly the mentality im going out there with! Plus if things go wrong then its just a learning opportunity...or at least thats what i tell the people that are with me haha

 

[Stark in the Wild]

Got some more done this weekend! Purchased some weld on D shackles in case anything should go terribly wrong (hoping it does at some point!) the only issue is the bumper is rusted in place so trying to figure out how to get that off so i can clean it up paint and weld it up. I already grinded the bolts off which are eerily close to the gas tanks. Also got my little custom switch panel in place and working (forgot to photograph but i will later).

Also found out my truck has 16.5" rims which is an awkward size meaning there are very limited tires for them. With that I sold my roommate on the idea of getting budget friendly rims that we will paint black (photos also later). Then we will sacrifice our budget mindset on rubber. Thinking 33s or 35s. still haven't decided. Did some engine work / cleaning as well. replacing gaskets and upgrading the exhaust manifold. Making a truck from the 1980s pass California smog is turning out to be a struggle.

Lastly i started designing the bed rack I plan on building. Im old school and prefer pencil and paper. Need it to hold a roof top tent, spare tire, maxtrax, and some water/gas cans. the bed can hold cooking gear, chairs, etc. which means weight...which means i am also signing up for suspension work at some point in the near future.

 

[Stark in the Wild]

Oh one more thing. Wading depth. I was told I need to look for my rear differential breather. It is about 24" off the ground. Im going to replace the tube and bring it up higher. but apart from that and obviously the intake anything else I should button up to increase water crossing depth?

I don't plan on this being an issue but I also don't want to have to worry about it should the need arise.

 

[Ari3sgr3gg0]

Well all breathers need to be higher than your wading depth. Grease up electrical connections too, and door seals usually get worn out on those older vehicles as well. Some good mud terrains are usually the best for water fun since the silt and mud at the bottom will clog less aggressive AT tires

 

[Stark in the Wild]

Well all breathers need to be higher than your wading depth. Grease up electrical connections too, and door seals usually get worn out on those older vehicles as well. Some good mud terrains are usually the best for water fun since the silt and mud at the bottom will clog less aggressive AT tires

Gotta say right now the door seals are the least of my problems! There is a hole the size of a cantaloupe in the floor thanks for the grease tip though! wouldn't have thought of that. Also ill look into where the other breathers are now too. Much appreciated!

 

[VroomSIX]

The official line from Ford is up to the hubs is the max recommend for water wading depth due to water penetrating the hubs, though honestly, the PCM near your left foot and the distributor is where your limits really are.

 

[BajaSurfRig]

You want to add breathers to your front + rear axlel, transfer case and transmission.

But what VroomSIX said is very spot on don't get your PCM wet.

 

[Stark in the Wild]

Well finally have updates worth sharing. Got the engine back together! And more importantly smogged and registered in the state of California! No idea how though but I'm not going to question it. It runs much better and smoother too. Aesthetically I welded on some D shackles to the rear bumper then painted it with some rattle can bed liner. Then bolted on a bottle opener...i mean why not? Then painted the front bumper to match the rear.

 

[Stark in the Wild]

Getting new tires put on the new rims (which will likely get painted too) next week. Then going to take it out on its first adventure in two weekends where I will get some good photos not taken with my iphone! The trek is a simple beach drive to a campsite in the sand in Pismo Beach...may even take it on a baby dune or two.

 

[Stark in the Wild]

The official line from Ford is up to the hubs is the max recommend for water wading depth due to water penetrating the hubs, though honestly, the PCM near your left foot and the distributor is where your limits really are.

Little nervous i dont know what a PCM is...googled it but couldnt find anything about a 1980 having a PCM...sssoooo hopefully im good haha but will definitely not being going deep enough to get the distributor wet. Well at least not on purpose ?

 

[VroomSIX]

Little nervous i dont know what a PCM is...googled it but couldnt find anything about a 1980 having a PCM...sssoooo hopefully im good haha but will definitely not being going deep enough to get the distributor wet. Well at least not on purpose ?

The PCM is the car’s computer, similar to an ECU, only the PCM is a control module for the entire Powertrain so engine, transmission, sometimes even ABS. If it gets wet and fried your car will no longer run.

I believe EFI didn’t come till ‘85 so you probably have a carburetor on there anyways. At that point, your distributor is the fail point outside of water in the intake.