241OR Ruby Tcase conversion, input needed

['round n' back again]

how true about selling the ruby.
I've never looked into marks, assuming they were for the later transfer cases.
the other powerful reason to keep Ruby, is the neutral option, for a tow-behind, my gen 1 requires that I de-couple the drive shaft

 

[lordtrunks]

So is your Rubicon case not 23 spline? Am I understanding this correctly?

 

['round n' back again]

it's 23 or whatever the mitsu jeep is, but the automatic input on the t case is much shorter.
it sits flush with the case surface, where as the manual shaft protrudes almost 2 inches, guarantee-ing a firm connection with transmission output shaft, it's lengthening this shaft that I'm undertaking to accomplish so it resembles a manual trans shaft.

whole point of this thread is to alert others who come across an automatic ruby and want it in their mitsu, of the complications involved

 

[Toasty]

The NP241OR behind the A580 (automatic JK Rubicon) is 26 spline, heads up for readers. Just get Manual trans NP241OR for ease, also note that the case does not fit the Gen 1 trans tunnel so be prepared to modify the tunnel or do a body lift.

 

['round n' back again]

Thx for the body mod tip.
I wondered about that.
how much does it not fit?
like 2 inches?
is it a cut and patch thing? or ********** it with a hammer thing?
can I adjust the operating angle, i.e. drop the trans a bit?
and corresponding pinion angle, or cv joint driveline?

 

[Toasty]

Thx for the body mod tip.
I wondered about that.
how much does it not fit?
like 2 inches?
is it a cut and patch thing? or ********** it with a hammer thing?
can I adjust the operating angle, i.e. drop the trans a bit?
and corresponding pinion angle, or cv joint driveline?

I got away with cutting a layer of sheet metal and bashing the inner layer into the seat frame with a 2" body lift, still was a tight fit. 3" would be ideal or cut the tunnel and rework it to clear then rework the seat base to bolt in.

 

[Pdivizzle0112]

Sounds like with propert differential gearing combined with the Marks4wd 3:15 gears, your desired effect should be achievable for a lot easier

 

[Toasty]

Sounds like with propert differential gearing combined with the Marks4wd 3:15 gears, your desired effect should be achievable for a lot easier

Well, for a Gen 1 only 2.85 is offered but it's a great gearset and easy to install. The price seems steep until you complete an NP241 swap and realize what that cost. The bonus is 4:1 low, it's great and probably worth it over 2.85 if you have larger than 33's. I haven't decided if it was worth it in my Gen 2 over the 3.15 but i have decided to upgrade to an underdriven Dana 20 in my Gen 2.

 

['round n' back again]

we are in the price range of an atlas or stax t case now, which , if smaller overall, is an ideal upgrade.
I can't see any real drawback,
does anyone have a perspective that can see a disadvantage to a stax?

also, gears are everything if I'm low on power.

so if I'm low on power ....turbo!
where do it end?

 

[Toasty]

I believe Stak went out of business and TWF bought the design updated it and made the Hero case, either way it is too wide to clear the Montero frame rail. The Atlas Is also much larger than the NP241, with a 3" body lift it still takes cutting a decent sized hole in the Montero floor to clear. Worth it in my opinion because well, it's an Atlas and at $4000 there's not much i wouldn't do do make it fit my Montero.
The reason i'm switching to a D20 is because NWF makes the Blackbox-i for the D20 which functions as the adapter to make it work on the standard 6 bolt 23 spline transmission output as well as being an underdrive. I had an underdriven D20 before but it used a Box4Rocks and was bulky, that's why it never made it into the Gen 2. My plan is a Bronco Dana 20, upgraded rear output with a 2:1 low range swapped in from the Jeep case and the Blackbox 2.72:1 in front of that for a 5.44: low low while being smaller and stronger than a NP241OR.

 

[lordtrunks]

Don't forget on a gen 1 you'll need to modify the shifter to a cable setup.

 

['round n' back again]

concerning the cable shift.
looking casually at the linkage, i have wondered if i can use the auto linkage to shift the t case and a winters cable shifter to shift the transmission, if for no other reason, than to use what is there and add a better trans linkage than my worn out mitsu shifter.

 

[Oso]

are the hyundai 5.29s still avail? if so, couple those with 2.85s from marks. straightforward, simple, and a killer combo for Gen 1.

 

[Toasty]

I used a manual shifter from a late 90's mirage. I cut off the forward.throw and turned it sideways making the side throw become forward throw. It was a tight fit, i did a similar thing on my Gen 2 with a Galant manual shifter except since there was a lot more room i used the forward throw and cut off the side throw. You can see i welded a flange to bolt the assembly to the stock T-case shifter opening.

 

['round n' back again]

dam clever.
and how did u deal with 4th o.d. solenoid?