I wheel an S10 Blazer (01 ZR2) and have owned/wheeled a 1992 "box" S10 4dr as well.
My advice is go mild on the suspension lift - you can get about 3/4" out of the IFS cranking your existing keys and that's still
CV boot safe, and adding longer shackles to the rear will have a dramatic positive effect on flexibility and smoothness (yes, really)
The lift kit pictured above in your post may still be a good investment, just don't crank so far (or re-use your old keys?) and you'll get the improved droop-ability of the new A-arms & BJ's without worry of worn boots. Suspension droop is valuable because not only does it improve comfort and control on badly pitted roads, it also reduces rollover likelyhood by reducing
uncontrolled axial movement as a result of 3-wheeling. Improvements in forward traction under "droop" condition are debated but in my understanding of things when rubber contacts earth there's some traction, period.
I think that in the suspension I will start by cranking the torsion bars a little bit. I'll then fabricate some extended shackles to level it out some. Easiest and cheapest.
Driving with an expedition "Get there, safely" mindset will keep your tie rods safe (yes, really) but it's not bad advice to have a spare or two.
I like your thinking. This isn't going to be a desert racer or a rock crawler. Just a daily driver that will take me into the boondocks on the weekends.
If it was mine to modify, I'd do a 1" or perhaps 2" body lift, crank the T-bars half to 3/4 of an inch, add lift shackles to the rear and 31" tires. You will need to do some minor trimming to the rear fenders for 31's but it's easy and minor and won't look bad. If you need to beef up the rear springs for added weight, I would recommend still using shackles as the initial lifting method and then adding overload coils for weight handling - because of the additional comfort and flexibility enhancement offered by longer shackle arc.
I'll probably add the 2" body lift to make it easier to access the upper bell housing bolts. Oh yeah, getting the rocker panels 2" higher and having more room for tires won't hurt either.
Justifications:
- first and foremost that's all that's necessary (strictly speaking lift/tire) to get you virtually anywhere it's worth being, obvious exceptions being "bottomless" snow and "show off" trails like Helldorado.
- with few exceptions, simple = reliable
- with few exceptions, off the shelf parts are easier to replace/repair than custom wackyness - AND safer.
- 31" tires are among the least expensive flotation sizes available, and offer you the most choices
- an expedition rig must take into account fuel efficiency, range, driver comfort (for safety), benign appearance (safety from vandalism, LEO scrutiny, local statutes) , repair availability away from home, weight, street performance, etc etc and this usually means staying as close to stock as your off-highway requirements allow.
- a body lift makes vehicle repair, maintenance easier - and typically has a dramatic effect on engine cooling, valid if you travel the southwest.
Other considerations:
- If possible, it might not be a bad idea to put ZR2 axles under your rig. You'd have to research if the spring perches really are in the same place (width) as on your 7.5" rear axle. This gives you dramatically stronger axles, disc rear brakes (98+ ZR2 axle), 3.73:1 gears (I assume you have 3.55 now), a locking diff (Gov-Lock), and a slightly wider stance.
- 3.4L engine is an easier way to go than a 4.3 - unless you want to replace your whole drivetrain. With a 4.3 you need a new trans, new Tcase, new driveshafts, new motor mounts, bigger radiator, etc etc etc. while with a 3.4 you just bolt it up in place of your existing engine. Though I suggest installing a TBI setup on the 3.4 to maximise reliability and power delivery - use the factory throttle body and injectors from a TBI 4.3 with the engine computer and intake manifold from a 2.8L Trooper or Rodeo and you're golden. Alternately use the whole MPFI system from the donor vehicle. Good donor vehicles for the RWD 3.4L engine are 94-96 camaros
- A great early addition to your build would be a new rear bumper that incorporates a receiver hitch with better departure angle, so you can get rid of that anchor you have now. Make sure the new rear bumper has beefy ends that wrap around the body, because those corners are gonna take a beating.
- While you're at it, a simple but beefy front bumper w/ shackles or hooks is an excellent idea because your factory tow hooks are dangerous and useless and the factory front bumper can't be hi-lifted safely.
- If you're going to make a new roof rack, make it replace the factory one entirely rather than bolting onto it. Incorporate a spare tire nook on it or keep your spare tire on the floor inside, because a "real" tailgate is a beautiful thing and swing-away carriers are a constant hassle.
I'm buying a 1993 4-Door Jimmy and I plan on swapping the entire drive train over into the '86. Granted there will be a wiring harness, computers, etc. to swap but in the end I'll be happy with the extra power and stouter transmission. I'll probably swap the axles as well. I wonder what gear ration is in the 1993? Oh, and custom built bumpers will be in the works at some point as well, that's for sure.
That's all I got for now, good luck & I hope some of this helps you decide on your direction.
Thanks for your input. I can tell that you put a lot of thought into it.
