Rear shocks....

RonL

Adventurer
Is anyone using Bilstein 5100 rear shocks? What are the standard shock valved at?

I do not have the money(or the need) for 7100 and 5150 are valved to soft for my Rover.

I have Blisteins 5100 on the front, and they have a decal that states the valving, but I can't find info on the web about the 5100 rear valving numbers.
 

revor

Explorer
Marc's right you'd need two (per side) to control your Disco's backside..
Save for something better and something you can revalve like a 7100 or a Fox emulsion (my latest kick)
 

craig

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
While the valving is fixed, I heard you can order them custom valved. Haven't done it myself though.
 

DiscoveryXD

Adventurer
i just purchased a set of 7100's valved at 400/100 rear, 360/80 front. I'm in the process of building the shock towers for the front, so I can't say how that setup feels just yet. That is the setup many people have recommended though...
 

DiscoveryXD

Adventurer
RTE 3" springs. RTE rear shock mounts, and I'm building the front shock mounts/towers. You can run the D2 loop towers up front though. The shocks are 12 short bodies all around.
 

RonL

Adventurer
I can re-inforce the mount as needed.
The real questions is do you like 400/100 valving?
How much weight are you carrying?

Last trip I had 850lbs in the back(three kids and all the stuff). Total weight close to 6300lbs. I am running Rovertym springs(R4 and R1).
 
Last edited:

muskyman

Explorer
I can re-inforce the mount as needed.
The real questions is do you like 400/100 valving?
How much weight are you caring?

Last trip I had 850lbs in the back(three kids and all the stuff). Total weight close to 6300lbs. I am running Rovertym springs(R4 and R1).

When I am fully loaded I am that heavy for sure.

I have a full rack with a full roof top tent. I have a pelican with a couple hundred pounds of tools and parts, a fridge feezer. lots of cast iron cooking equipment. fuel , water the whole shabang.

The 400/100 is plenty of dampening and it really control body roll as I am running without either sway bar. I am running the 5" rovertym springs front and rear so I do have some good spring rates in there.

The jounce shocks are what really completes the set up. I cant believe more people havent flocked to them yet. They eliminate those hard bottoms that damage trucks and make the driver cringe. The best part of them is the amount of control they give you. What they do is soak up that huge amount of force that toss' the truck. What I have found is they allow the shocks to work better. To eliminate that motion with just shocks you would have to suffer from the hard ride of a overly dampened shock set up all the time just to have the protection those few really rough spots will need. The jounce shocks are progresive so most times you will not even feel them. as you start cycling them hard all you feel is a gentle click when they make contact but the progresive nature makes the soak up the force and bring you to a soft bottom that wont launch you like a poly bump stop.
 

RonL

Adventurer
So, when you said, "plenty of dampening" do you think 400/100 is too much valving for a Rover with 3" rovertym springs?

Here is the full list
3" rovertym springs
front bumper with winch
rear bumper with tire carrier&gas can
sliders
235/85-16 tires on steel rims
No rear sway bar
 

RonL

Adventurer
The plan is 360/80 in the rear, if I am unhappy with the valving, move them to the front and buy another set with 400/100 valving for the rear.
 

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