Fuso fk 4x4 converstion????

Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
So I have been looking around, and I think that the Fuso would make a really nice truck to use for an overland camper.

My interest would be increased if I could get one that was a 4x4. As this seems rather unlikely in the states, I thought I would ask what the potential would be to "up-grade" the vehicle... :D

Mitsubishi Fuso FK 17-20ft Reefer Diesel Box Truck is basically what I am looking for.

I think that this would be a very easy vehicle to convert into a motorhome as it is already insulated and built up. Basically a "just add windows" kind of thing. A little bit of furnishings, plumbing, and other obvious things and I think it would make a fine coach.

OK,back to my point

What would it take to install a t-case and front drive axle onto one of these vehicles? While I am sure this thing can do a lot in Rwd, I would still prefer a 4wd eventually.

Any thoughts on the difficulty would be appreciated.

Thanks for your time and consideration.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Hi Brian, have a look at Darrin Finks work. (ruf.inc) He's already done a few and done it very well. I regularly talk to owner of one of the converted Fuso FM's (very similar to FK) and he can't speak highly enough of the conversion that was done and the final result. Why Fuso don't build their own version is beyond me. It is just a logical partner to the FG series so I'm certain they'd sell.

If this conversion is something you want to undertake yourself maybe an Isuzu F series would be an easier undertaking as they already come in a 4x4 in other countries so the conversion should be mainly involve mechanical work (or swapping) rather than fabrication requiring engineering approval from your local transport authority. I am presuming that you have access to Isuzu F series 2wd trucks in North America. If you are googling, any Isuzu (F or N series) with an "S" at the end of the prefix is a 4x4 and with a "R" is a 2wd. Any other prefix endings are for bogey drives, extra long chassis, etc.

This is an old FTS crewcab for sale on truckhub.com.au at the moment.

DisplayImage.aspx
 

engineer

Adventurer
With a "self install" I'd be more inclined to go with a rockwell transfer and GKN hub reduction axles. It is just easier with brake linings etc etc. and you'll have full air with s cam, not air over hydrualic.
Big job for one though, how good are you with a welder, Lathe oxy and milling machine?
 

Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
I do not have access to any milling equipment, but I am sure that my wife's uncle and I could get the welding done. Even if I did not want to do that, that work can always be hired out, for a price.

I am actually more concerned with mating up the T-case and such.

No, I have not done any searches on the Issusus, but I am willing to consider it. I like the FK just because it is a larger truck. I have looked at the FG but they would only allow for a much smaller coach on the back, and a lower weight allowence.

As for rockwells, I had not thought about that. I Have considered Mog axles, but I figured that would be much more trouble than it is worth. I do not really want a big heavy duty axle, just something that can do the job, and meet the original needs of a front axle.
 

Lynn

Expedition Leader
What are your travel plans?

One dream I have is to build a rig on a US-availbale 2wd (Isuzu?), use it around the US a while to work the bugs out of the camper, then ship it to Australia and have a reputable shop there convert it to 4wd using standard OEM parts. After it's converted I could tour around Australia, then off to the rest of the world...

I think it would be better to use matching OEM parts to simplify repairs in distant countries.
 

haven

Expedition Leader
Hino didn't use the Ranger name for trucks in North America.
Instead they used letter designations. Here's what I learned
about deciphering the code:

FA, FB trucks under 20,000 lbs gvwr
FD, FE trucks under 26,000 lbs gvwr
FF, FG trucks over 26,000 lbs

FT designation means 4x4 medium truck, unfortunately not imported
to USA. In other markets, Hino markets Ranger 4x4 trucks with
FT, FX, GT and GX designations.

Then come four numbers. The first pair of numbers indicate the
GWVR, so 15 means 15,000 lbs., 26 is 26,000 lbs and so on.

The second pair of numbers tell you the horsepower of the engine.
20 means 200 hp, which is a 6 cylinder engine. 17 is 170 hp, which
is a 4 cylinder engine.

Here's an example with a refrigerator body, just waiting for conversion:

2004 FE2620 = medium truck, 26,000 lbs GVWR, 200 hp engine
Asking price is $17,000 USD

hino-fe.jpg


http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=2278985
 

JRhetts

Adventurer
Hi Brian, have a look at Darrin Finks work. (ruf.inc) He's already done a few and done it very well.

Darrin had Marmon Harrington do the front drive axle and install a custom-designed Data 22,000# rear axle with 6.5 differentials (to accommodate the taller 41" tires) and locking rear differential.

So far, it's a great set up. Looking forward to more miles!!
 

engineer

Adventurer
First things first,
We need to find the ratio of reduction at rear diff to see if we can leave it insitu, and block it up (a-la-isuzu) if not then you will be up for 2 axles.
I'd suggest the Timken axle out of the FSS as you could (don't know if you still can?) get free wheeling hubs for them. (save fuel and wear)
Then I'd go for an american transfer (not constant 4x4) as the Jap ones tend be "lighter".
It looks to me that you won't need carrier bearings on something that short, but as long as you get most of it close to parallel, harmonics will be minimised.
It's funny that we actually did the opposite to make a bandag burnout truck, using OM engine from an 0303.......
Truck029.jpg
 

Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
Wow, that is... interesting looking. You rather lose a lot of space with the engine so far back. I guess you could put a bed over that, but it would be odd. IMO

So I have been thinking about this, seems less and less likely that one could actually convert for less than about 20K. Good to know. Seeing as I think I could bring the entire rest of the camper in for that price, I think I would not want to go into 4x4, at least not right away. As I am looking to spend time in Europe and perhaps Aus first, I figure I can do just fine without the 4x4.

Found this Ebay Fuso that I think would do a really nice job for what I am looking for. No one seems interested in it yet. Too bad I do not have the cash saved up to pick this thing up.

Sell the rear lift, and the freezer unit (if anyone would actually buy it) and I think it would be a nice camper. Just harvest an older dieing camper for the interior parts, and you are fairly well on your way.

Sigh... Wish I could buy this thing now! grrr.

Thanks for the input...

Brian
 

DzlToy

Explorer
the 2008 Fuso FK has an almost impossible to match 4.444 gear ratio. The closest off the top of my head is a 4.56 or a 4.30, too much difference on both. Therefore you may find yourself looking at a pair of axles. Rear axle is rated at 17k pound, you should not need anywhere near that capacity for an RV type conversion. A new model Dana S110 is rated at 13 or 14k and a Dana S130 is rated at 15-16k. Both have lunchbox lockers available, but no ARB, OX or other selectable locker, AFAIK.

The front axle is only rated at 7300 pounds, so you could easily use a Super 70 or Dana 80 front axle for your 4wd conversion. There is no need to use Marmon Herrington and certainly not Mogs or Rockwells, especially not the military ones, but an F106 would be too large also, IMO.

The factory tires are barely 32" tall on 19.5" wheels, so you will need to figure out how much lift you want, ride height off road and for things like shipping container, etc., depending on your travel plans. To me that truck dwarfs a 32" tire and could easily be on a 36 - 39" tire. You will not find a tire in America in that range fitting a 19.5" dually wheel. They are available for 22.5" wheels, but then you have the issue of not having enough sidewall for off highway use, so you may be pushed towards a super single conversion. Companies like Nitto have 34-35" tires rated in the 4000 pound range if your truck fits those parameters. A 40" tire is available at 4200 and 4300 pound ratings if you are willing to go that size. Curb weight is something on the order of 8000 pounds, with probably 60-70% over the front end on a stock chassis cab, so you will need to take that into account as well.

The factory transmission is an Allison 1000, which comes behind GM's Duramax diesel in 1 ton trucks. You may get lucky there and be able to take advantage of the aftermarket support for that transmission. The factory (GM) transfer case is an NV261/3 and it will be fine if you fix the pump rub issues that its known for. There are adapters available for Stak 2 and 3 speed transfer cases and an NV271/273 case adapters were available from Suncoast but are difficult to find now. A final option would be to divorce a LoMax NP205, a Stak or an Atlas (in that order). I am not sure that LoMax is still doing 3:1 boxes, so your best bet may be a Stak, which is a bombproof case. Cable shift kits are available for all cases mentioned except the 273 and 263 which are factory electric shift, so that solves your linkage issues with a COE truck.

The factory power specs are less than stellar for that size motor, so the damn thing will run forever and you probably wont have to worry about breaking drivetrain parts, etc., even using 1 ton or 1.25 ton parts as the diesel trucks make more power than an FK and their parts are way over built in most cases.

For front suspension, the simplest design is leaf springs and when configured properly, they will give a decent ride. The best setup would be links and coils or links and bags, especially in a COE truck off road. Of course its more complex, but making suspension tabs and brackets and using a four link calculator to design the suspension is not that hard if you are willing to work at it and have good mechanical knowledge.
 
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