Getting a LR3, best forum and lift?

Instead of spamming this forum which has few LR3 members Id like to take my questions elsewhere. Im getting an LR3 and Im already looking to lift it.

Are the extended rods the best option? Or is there another option? Can most places align a LR3, or should I take it to dealer?

275/65/18 A good size with lift?
 

Howski

Well-known member
Not an lr3 owner but when I was looking into them there were some guys with the rods and 275/65's fine from what I read. I know someone (I wanna say Toddco) makes spacers now as well
 

Mack73

Adventurer
4 US forums to check (www.lrrforums.com , www.landroverworld.org, www.landroversonly.com, www.landroverforums.com )- None "really" stands out as a number one - but I included them in the best order.

As mentioned disco3.co.uk is great. www.aulro.com is the best Austrailian forum.

Lift rods: Sasquatch (great and adjustable), Johnson Rods (non adjustable, big lift), GN Vehicle Protection (ones I have, simple movement from normal to offroad height so you don't have to swap the rods each time you go out on the trail), and Toddco's. Oh and don't use the air bag spacers on the front. Several people have had their airbags punctured as it messes up the alignment and allows too much droop.

Wheels: 17's won't fit (well unless you go to V6 brakes and import wheels from the UK). Just stick with 18's.

Tires: Stay 32" or less. 32" requires a lift and if the air system fails you WILL be stuck on the trail. People have reported that 265/65/18's will clear on the bump stops but it is very tight. I am running the 265/65's with no lift, a little bit of rub but nothing major. There are no MT's available in anything less that 32". Take a look at this for your tire options: http://johnsonrods.com/johnson_rods_2_004.htm
 

Mack73

Adventurer
Oh forgot the alignment question - it is best to take it to a dealer or a good indy that has the right computer systems.

Due to the airbag system, the computers need to be put into "tight tolerance" mode so that the vehicle doesn't move while the alignment is being performed.
 

Bullsnake

Adventurer
I went with the standard rod lift and it has worked great for me in Moab and Colorado. I'm planning on heading out with the family early Wednesday to Breck with the LR3 and my 110 to attend the rally - if you're going to make it PM me and I'll show you everything I've done and how it performs!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0117.jpg
    IMG_0117.jpg
    146.9 KB · Views: 274

adelatoa

Adventurer
I went with the standard rod lift and it has worked great for me in Moab and Colorado. I'm planning on heading out with the family early Wednesday to Breck with the LR3 and my 110 to attend the rally - if you're going to make it PM me and I'll show you everything I've done and how it performs!

Very nice LR3. Looks properly modded! When I grow up I wanna have one of those and I also want to be an astronaut.
 

11b4v

Adventurer
bullsnake,

im looking toward an LR3 in the future, so cough up the make and model of the lift/rods, tires, and the bumper and skipplate.

thanks much


yer truck looks good!
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
Are the extended rods the best option? Or is there another option?

275/65/18 A good size with lift?

A. the rods are not "extended", they are shorter. You can make them yourself even from the ones on the car, I did just to test the idea. Well, not my factory rods, but a replacement set from the parts department.

B. Using them is relatively stupid. Not only the obvious reasons if you take a few minutes to honestly consider the design limitations and additional stress caused by the modification BUT more importantly, the safety aspect. The other poster who said he was going out with "his family" doesn't want to survive an emergency situation where proper handling could make the difference between "wow, that was a crazy near miss" vs "hey that guy who had his lr3 lifted too high for highway speeds killed his family"

No, I don't think it's too over the top for me to say so, get pissed, I don't need you to be my friend if the result is you live to gripe about me another day.

Would you take yourself and/or your family and friends down the highway at 80 mph in a lifted jeep on swampers? I hear they are slightly lacking in the emergency highway handling capabilities....


Seriously, the rod thing is cool for when you are ON a trail, but in reality, they don't actually provide ANY more clearance than what is attainable from the oem system. You are saying, "BS", well, this is not a solid axle with steel springs design, this is an independent suspension, front and rear.

It has a MAX angle of drop.

When you shorten the rods, you trick the computer to set the frame higher. Big deal. I do it any time I want simply by getting the system into the "super extended mode". In fact, you may know that the computer will do this for you if you get hung up on something like a rock or stump which takes pressure off the air springs, the computer notices this change in pressure, i.e, it "feels" like it's feet are dangling. Then it allows you to go into the higher height mode.

All you have to do to start off in this mode, is place something under the sill rail when in "offroad height", then drop the suspension to "normal", the computer "feels" the obstruction and let's you go "up" into the "extended mode".....WHICH happens to be the maximum available height anyway. There is no MAGIC height created by the silly rods.

The rods are no different than wearing heels and having your toes still on the floor. You could have stood on your toes anyway without heels, you've gained no more than your maximum height.

Again, the rods are dangerous. The lr3 is not the best handling vehicle to begin with, then toss on all your crap, a rack, especially a roof tent, some gear, a fridge, a winch, recovery gear....etc, and what handled a little crappy now handles like a pile of crap at speed.

The LR4 has a completely redesigned front end in regard to the steering design and suspension to correct the crappy stuff.

Anyway, I use the 265/65x18 bg at and they work fine, fit fine, etc. I can only imagine how much fun it would be for one of the many simply little things failing that could result in no suspension lift out on a trail. It wouldn't be any better on the flattest road if you drop down onto some nice big tires. 265/65x18 is exactly 31.7" new. A 285/65x18 is 32.5", very awesome, and what SHOULD be able to go on the lr3, but it's too big for "practical" use.

Just do less mods and rely on your driving more. Even with the max height of the lr3, it still can't really go anywhere that one without the rods can go when driven properly.

You might be better off covering the entire underside with plates, including the rather exposed fuel tank and rear differential.

Good luck with whatever you do.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
A view of my underside. To me, this is the 2nd thing to do after proper tires and a full size spare being 1st. 3rd is putting that spare where you can actually get to it in situations where getting under the rear is not ideal. You can see front guard, two radiator curved guards, middle center, and then on each side the rails which extend about 12" under protecting both air tanks and both air compressors (one side is factory for the suspension the other set is for on-board air outlet) I do not have the fuel tank guard here as it was not really on the market when I installed all this.

lr3.uwharrie_armorview.jpg


Prior to radiator guards:
lr3.armor.jpg




Oh, about those rods....guess what they don't help with, "articulation", in fact, they REDUCE articulation because with them on, you ride closer to being fully "stretched out". Therefor when you go into a situation where the cross linked suspension wants to "push" a wheel downward into the receding space, to gain ground pressure and traction, it can't! Rods decrease overall traction. More tires touching and driving = more traction. I don't know why people loose sight of all the basics over wanting to do something "COOL" like lift on a suspension not designed for lift. If you want lift, get a Discovery or anything with solid axles. I feel like I'm ranting but it's the same short sighted topics coming up every time someone is new to the LR3 design.

Forget the rods, protect the belly & put the tire on a proper bumper arm.
 
Last edited:

Jwestpro

Explorer
See the "lift" here. No rods. just induced "extended mode" :

lr3.ss.ext.rightside2.jpg


Another time:

lr3.reiter-side.fog.s.jpg


You may wonder "why does it look like the rear is extended higher than the front". It's true, it is. Figure out why and understand your vehicle better.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
Now, what would be cool, is a computer version of this lift, a switch per-say. A German company, Matzker, has something like this but I have not heard of anyone in the US being about to get it installed. It allows desirable functions - on demand 1" up or 1" down from either of the two driving height modes as well as a higher spring rate for better road handling. In normal height you could ride 1" lower for better cornering in the mountains. In off road height, you could just dial in an extra 1" if going into somewhere you need the clearance.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,029
Messages
2,881,077
Members
225,705
Latest member
Smudge12
Top