The supercab short bed is a great combo. U-turns are no big deal, switchbacks are 3 pointers rather than the Austin Powers wiggle. You can parallel park in town, etc. One of the biggest reasons for us to go with the f-350 was the slightly longer (short) bed and the supercab. We don't need a full...
Thanks for the replies...
To update, the jeep is in the shop getting the dana 35 re-geared and a limited slip carrier. I found a nice used dana 30 already setup with 4.56's and a true trac for the front that I'll swap when I get the jeep back.
I decided to stick with the 35 mostly because I...
I've been looking around for at least a rear D44, haven't had a ton of luck or I am looking at $1k+ then cost of regear and traction device. 8.8's are much easier to find and cheaper but still some expense and work involved. Also read it may create more driveline issues? I don't mind cutting and...
New to jeeps and have been doing a ton of reading but can't seem to find a definitive answer...
I recently bought a '97 Wrangler 4.0 5spd that has 3.5-4" lift and 33x10.50x15's but stock 3.07 gears and open diffs.
We live in the mountains of CO and the jeep will be used as a runaround as well...
285/75/17 so about 34" Usually 50-60psi depending how much hwy we are doing. Probably the biggest I would run on the stock steel wheels. If it was a dedicated camper rig I would consider going bigger but I use the truck for work and am regularly towing 3-7 ton.
All over western Montana but one...
I think any "RV" is going to rattle itself apart on rough roads after a while. We have a Northstar pop-up, and while being one of the better built of the regular truck campers, it's still a wood frame with thin cabinetry and normal rv fixtures, etc. It will go anywhere that the truck will but...
Awesome find. Looks like a 9" rear. Whats the front axle? D44?
I vote 33x10.50 Not too many options in that size but enough. Plus it will look great and put some sidewall under there without needing wider wheels.
Tools not jewels. You'd be surprised at how well these uhmwpe lines last getting drug through the mud on a daily basis. Easy to repair in the field if the do break. I'd bet for most recreational use UV degradation is much more of a concern. Hawse or roller, haven't had any trouble with either.
You could always try ditching the sway bar. Easy enough to put back on if you feel you need it and then explore other more expensive options.
Also check out a tire load table. That 12.50 has a higher load rating at 50 psi (3525lbs) than the 13.50 has at 80 psi (3195lbs)
The 20's and even some 18's have the same load capacity as the stock 225's. I think it'd be an interesting option to be able to run an LT tire. I'd be willing to bet they would wear rather quick running at 16k+ lbs day in and day out.
I have an f550 for my business. It's got a 6ft tall steel box on top of a flatbed dump so probably taller and definitely heavier than most rv setups.
It's a 2000 model so leafs front and rear. I run the yellow and blue bilstein (4600?) They made a definite improvement on weight transfer when...