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SPF, thanks for the pics, very nice build! Are you reusing the fire service gal base frame? Are you using any sort of torsion free / pivoting tray mounts? I absolutely love the rear deck concept, used by you and Omar. Fly mesh is clever too.

Very interesting.. having to back off on hills is so annoying and distracting. More revs = lower EGTS because of higher air flow. On 4btswaps and the Cummins forums they say that EGTS of about 1200*f sustained up hills are ok, subject to coolant temps staying acceptable. Even if you tuned...

Ah so does it hit 17psi lower in the rev range then die off up top? Are you limited by EGT getting too high on big hills, do you have to back off the throttle to control EGT?

SPF40plus, excellent pics and thanks for updating us!! Did you reuse the factory air box and filter assembly? Do I spy a modified snorkel there? Could you tell us about the exhaust arrangement? Are you happy with the driving manners of the current turbo setup? Cheers mate

M10 metric csk cap screws to DIN 7991 have a head dia of 2xD, so 20mm. I wonder if our Aussie screws are to that standard?

About the unsupported ears on the turbine housing.... I have no direct experience here, but I imagine you'd want to avoid doing that. If they broke off in the outback, you'd be in trouble. Id be guessing on the heat expansion thing Id probably lean towards a plain style adaptor plate without...

Thanks for the edit, my reply above is probably irrelevant now. Some random ideas from easiest to worst... Use metric fine pitch studs, for greater shear strength. But doing that creates more clamping pressure on that unsupported flange ear.... Hmmm. Drill out the turbo flange holes a bit...

When there's limited clearance and great difficulty to assemble the turbo to adaptor to manifold, have had some success with the following... Try to assemble the whole thing on the bench then slip manifold onto prefitted head studs. If not possible, then using prefitted studs and nuts in the...

Which part do you want to slot? The actual flange on the exhaust housing? Or the adaptor? Whatever you do, need to maintain very flat surface area for the gasket to seal against and enough stud clamping force to actually seal the gasket properly.

Sorry for straying OT, but about the small hino with the frame stretch... Can't imagine driving one of those with that much weight on the front. The brand new tray truck I recently drove had only 30mm to the front bump stops. Every freeway bridge expansion joint had the front bouncing off the...

The spot above the spare can work well, a cheap 30" combination beam light bar will be excellent.

You're welcome. The reason the intercooler pipe size makes a difference with turbo petrols is that the air FLOW rate dramatically changes constantly, as the engine goes from vaccum to boost to vaccum to boost etc. The turbo has to constantly refill the whole cooler system each time you open the...

Hi rawtoxic Echoing one of the posters above, I am also budget sensitive. Yes lights down low are ideal in fog, but not ideal for long distance vision or fast driving. I always leave the factory lights alone. I prefer a (cheap china ebay) spot beam light bar at license plate height for long...

Hi SPF In principle, you're right about the intercooler pipe size thing... bigger ones would logically take longer to fill with air, but in my experience, I couldn't ever tell the difference. A convenient way to check which size will work is to look at engines with similar power output...