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FYI, we use a standard 1/4 fitting for the pressure switch and this is the area that needs to be "T"d into. If you source your own fittings and hose just make sure the parts will tolerate the air temp coming off the unit. Air flowing out can and will exceed 300 degrees F when inflating tires...

Hi guys, thought I would chime in here with some info on this. Noise plugged into wall. These fridges are DC native, when plugged into an AC circuit the power is converted in a rectifier built into the AC power supply. These make a noise whenever the fridge is plugged into AC power. The...

We are always glad to help the good folks of ExPo out! If anyone has any questions about what was discussed in this thread or are having similar problems, please feel free to contact us (or guys like Kurt @ CruiserOutfitters). No objections to the tech info being shared here. Koyo and SKF...

We found one, thanks for all the Nissan owners who contacted me. Also, the app guide for Xterra needs to be updated. The Xterra bar is good to go for 2010-2011 models. Our SEMA Xterra is a 2010 and the bumper only required some slightly different cutting templates and revised instructions for...

Hi Guys, we need to find a 2009-11 4wd Frontier to test fit a prototype bumper on here at our facility in Renton Washington ASAP. Bumper stays with the truck it get's fitted on. Please email me at Marc@ARBUSA.COM for additional details or with any questions. Thanks, Marc ARB Tech Dept

Thought I could help here. That hose (the orange one) is high grade silicone rated to 350 degrees. It was hard to find and is Japanese made. Nice stuff. Why is it so hot? The CKMA12 is all motor and cylinder with not much tank. Like a small car with lots of motor, it's basically a hotrod among...

Hi guys, just a word on the Air Lockers. The idea that too much pressure will hurt an ARB Air Locker is a myth. Too little pressure is a much bigger problem than too much. If your OBA system is running at 150PSI than DO NOT regulate the pressure down for the Air Lockers. Our solenoids will hold...

It sounds strange, but the easiest way to adapt a angled tailpipe is with about 12 inches of PVC pipe of the appropriate size (slightly smaller that the ID of the exhaust) shoved into the tailpipe (it will wedge pretty easily) thus converting the angled pipe into a straight pipe. We've done this...

Hi Burn-E, My apologies for misunderstanding your post. I thought it was probably just an error in the component that failed as we have never seen one melt the cone down. How far down the from the manifold flange is the exhaust on your Jeep? On most vehicles a pair of leather gloves (or no...

Hi Burn E, regarding melting a hose at the exhaust. This can happen if the hose gets twisted or kinked near the exiting exhaust. It sets up a hot spot and melts the tubing. Typically it happens just behind the cone. If this does happen it's quite easy to fix as the hose is retained by a wrapped...

How old is this switch? If it's less than a couple years we should be able to cover it under warranty. If not, we stock the switches as individual parts. Call and ask for the tech dept. ARBUSA 888-427-2872

Hi Michael, as I understand it the reason they didn't break any blocks was the result of breaking cables. They apparently begin failing in the range Daniel described. As for why they burned up 3 motors, not sure on that one, but it may have had more to do with an initial concern that they had a...

Hi Guys, here are the specs from engineering. Marc ARBUSA OK, the specs from the box: 7000kg Working = 15,400lbs Breaking = 32,000lbs Weight = 7.7 9000kg Working = 20,000lbs Breaking = 38,500lbs Weight = 5.3 Note: 7000kg block actually breaks at 32,000lbs – whereas the 9000kg is...

The wire crossing might have been me actually, the reference may have been in place to indicate the confusion. The 9000 is the newer one and substantially stronger than the older design. The 2 blocks do not share the same ratings. Marc ARBUSA

Hi Guys, thought it might be useful to get some information on the 9000 snatch block directly from the source as there has been a variety of published information on that part number (including by us of all things) that is incorrect. I asked Daniel Bongard, the engineer who was in charge of...

Assuming the compressor is a RDCKA unit (the one we built from about 93-2007) you can buy a cylinder rebuild kit (includes piston, rings, rod, barrel, and o-rings needed) for about 40 bucks (don't quote me on that as I am at home and not at the work computer). It's part number 290311 I think...

I'd say you're safe with anything 09 and up for the current spec sheet. From fall 07 on they made a lot of incremental changes that have eventually stacked up to the current spec. Regardless, the numbers on the original spec sheet will be conservative no matter what. Marc

Hi Stan, understand your questions and your concerns. That said, we sell a ton of these compressors every month and it was a ramped up production schedule with the batch issue occuring over 2 years ago (summer 2007) so the affected number were quite small. Therefore, I would be very surprised...

I can understand your concerns, none of us like the idea of potentially getting stuck somewhere without air, but you should be good. I can check though, the serial number is on the base bracket and should be 7 or 8 numbers long. Shoot that over to me and I can determine when it was built. Marc

Hi guys, gonna post up on this one as it's pretty relevant. We had a problem with a small number of CKMA12's coming apart at the bottom of the connecting rod on very early build compressors back in 07. We learned about this which is part of the reason we handled the warranty claim with so few...