Search results

Technically it is not too difficult, but it is a lot of work. The biggest change I made was to convert from Turbo400 to 700R4. Some of the Pathfinder engineering stands some re-thought.

That is for sure a Dana. Most likely a 60. If you look on the casting webs around the center housing you will probably see a 60 cast in it. If you look closely on the axle tubes near the housing you should see a series of numbers stamped into the tube. Go to the Dana2 website and enter those...

Post a picture of the center pumpkin; it will be easier to tell what you have that way. I have seen Dana 60's in them and I have seen AAM/corporate axles in them. If it is AAM/corporate it will most likely have a Gov-Lock limited slip. If it is a Dana, someone else might know.

The paint and body really looks great!

That's about what I would expect and really not so bad. Thanks.

Glad you have had the chance to use it. Do you have any feel for what the utility body did to your fuel mileage?

I would love to see a build thread! Nice looking Syncro. Welcome.

All the major u joint manufacturers have information on their websites about acceptable u joint operating angles and how to calculate compound u joint angles. Dana Spicer publication J3311-1-HVTSS "Driveshaft Installation" is the one I usually refer to.

Thanks, Kaisen. The point you were making is still valid, that the 3/4 ton is a much heavier duty truck than the 1/2 ton and would be much better for heavy towing.

Kaisen, I know you are very knowledgeable about Suburbans, but I have never heard of the steel front diff housing on the 3/4 ton. Do you mean that the front center "pumpkin" is steel instead of cast aluminum? It's cast aluminum on my 2003 2500HD as far as I recall. Thanks.

Nice looking rig; welcome!

And I am pretty sure some of the master cylinders have a step bore, with different primary and secondary piston diameters. Underdrive, your last post about being careful about just switching the brake lines is why I originally posted my question; I was pretty sure it was possible to end up with...

Great information on this thread! Thanks to all for the info.

"The master cylinder I got had the holes for the lines swapped as compared to the old one. I asked him about this and he said it was normal to have to swap front/rear positions on the lines sometimes. The threads were correct, so no issues there." So you are saying the front brake line attached...

+1 what Sooper Camper said.

Hodakaguy, your craftsmanship is inspirational. Your thread "forced" me to stop walking past the Diversion tig welder to the mig that I can use fairly well. I've been tig welding everything for about a month, and while still not as nice as your welds, it's getting there. Thanks.

Thanks Swashbuckler; I did not know how to link him to it.

Colorado Camper did a nice looking pop top on an Expedition or an Excursion; I'm a Chevy guy, so I do not know the difference:-) There is also a 'Burb that has a westy top in the full size build threads.

The front wheel bearing problems I had were on a GMT800 2500HD series truck. My '95 GMT400 K1500 went 275k miles with no wheel bearing issues. A number of people I know with GMT800 trucks have had numerous front wheel bearing problems. Both of my trucks had factory wheels and were used in the...

Good call on the serpentine tensioner. Whenever I buy a used Chevy truck (which is all I ever buy now) I always replace the water pump, serpentine belt, serpentine idler pulley, serpentine tensioner, alternator, power steering pump. I keep all the removed parts as carry aboard spares. Yeah...