@Adrifters - F550 Surf Camper Build - Adrift Motorhome

bahndo

Supporting Sponsor: Bahn Camper Works
I believe that you can add the beads through the valve stem and not have to split the rim. I'm sure that is not the case for all beads (airsoft bb's will not go through a valve stem) but the ones that are sold for dynamic balancing specially should.

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Healeyjet

Explorer
Scott, they broke the rims apart and added I believe two packages of beads to each tire. I took it for a short drive and so far so good. Our 5000 mile drive starting next week will no doubt show whether they work or not.:smiley_drive: It took them all morning to do the 5 tires.
Ward
 

S2DM

Adventurer
I believe that you can add the beads through the valve stem and not have to split the rim. I'm sure that is not the case for all beads (airsoft bb's will not go through a valve stem) but the ones that are sold for dynamic balancing specially should.

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What I've been 'told' is that the hutchinson beadlock won't reliably let the beads through the rubber ring and into the outer portion of the rim. But thats not coming from any personal experience, so could very well be wrong.
 
What I've been 'told' is that the hutchinson beadlock won't reliably let the beads through the rubber ring and into the outer portion of the rim. But thats not coming from any personal experience, so could very well be wrong.

I know that the way my Hutchinsons are set up I would not be able to put them through the valve stem.

I would have to break a bead and put the BB's in on the other side of the rubber bead lock ring


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TenaciousTJ

Explorer
I ran Dynabeads in my Hutchinsons and it was a nightmare. The rubber Beadlock inside the wheel has two finger sized holes to allow air to pass through them. After not being able to get my wheels to balance, I took them apart and discovered beads had easily fallen into these air holes and were on both sides of the Beadlock, if that makes sense. No way to prevent it and get a decent balance with this design. Not to metion, Dynabeads customer service was absolutely terrible. Just my experience though.


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sarconcepts

Adventurer
try holding the nozzle halfway out, it will still catch on the springs around the tip so you can set it there without having to hold it the whole time. the splashback is what's shutting the pump off. i have this happen to a lesser degree on the Bullet, it may be because the fuel line to the tank is not sloped enough.
 

java

Expedition Leader
Sounds like not enough slope in the fill pipe.

I may be wrong but im guessing the only difference in the diesel on is the size of the nozzle hole, assuming there is a stamped piece of metal in there withe the nozzle hole in it.
 

ABCanuck

Adventurer
Our suburban did the same thing. Not sure if the F series have a fuel vapor canister or if the diesels don't have them,but if the hoses or canister are restricted it can cause that kick back. Pretty infuriating when it's -30. Swap in a new canister and your in business.


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IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Dual tanks or single tanks?

I know my flatbed '96 Ford (dual tanks) can be a bit of a pain to fill up with the low slope, but adding a vent tube from one tank filler neck to the other, and then simply removing BOTH camps to fuel up sped things up a ton.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
There most certainly is. Not sure if it is a Fed thing or by state.

But seeing you are from CA, Id bet your state regulations supersede fed anyhow....
 

fluffyprinceton

Adventurer
If your vent is big enough then it must be the "splash" factor as mentioned by sarconcepts. Maybe a slide in "L" fitting 18" or more high that pressure fits through a taper in to your filler neck. Put it in for filling & the extension might give the gas enough room to flow cleanly. I'd carefully check the vent system first. Moe
 

altaboy

Observer
transonite: Called the manufacturer and briefly talked to the application engineer. This stuff is custom engineered for each application. Each application requires a custom run (machine set up, material procurment, etc.). Buy direct from manufacturer. All = expensive.

Question to S2DM: These panels you are using, are they in fact from a custom run, or is this a secondary buy from another middleman that had a run manufactured that you were able to fit your needs from a engineering/design poin of view?

Would love to entertain the stuff, and still might depending on the answers of above.

Inquiring minds want to know....
 

S2DM

Adventurer
transonite: Called the manufacturer and briefly talked to the application engineer. This stuff is custom engineered for each application. Each application requires a custom run (machine set up, material procurment, etc.). Buy direct from manufacturer. All = expensive.

Question to S2DM: These panels you are using, are they in fact from a custom run, or is this a secondary buy from another middleman that had a run manufactured that you were able to fit your needs from a engineering/design poin of view?

Would love to entertain the stuff, and still might depending on the answers of above.

Inquiring minds want to know....

The latter. The story is long, but the short of it is we were able to get access to some overage from a big job. We ran out of panels at about the 50% mark in our build and werent able to get more, so I started making my own after that.

I think the optimum profile for a camper in terms of skin thickness etc would probably be very weight comparable to the panels in use by the big boys. Ours were a little heavier than I would have liked, but..they are unbelievably strong. They would also work well in a bonded extrusion profile build system, but I wouldn't use them again to do a molded project like ours. The insulative material has a very good R value, but the combo of the crosslinking between the skins and the slightly friable nature of the core, makes it hard to form radiused edges etc.
 
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