02 Suburban 2500 Maintenance - Questions on Parts Quality

[BPMOU]

Good Morning,

I am needing to replace a front wheel bearing (least thats what I believe it is) in 02 Suburban 2500 and it comes as a complete hub assembly. I am planning on doing both sides and new brakes, rotors pads and possibly new SS lines. In addition, my buddy who is a mechanic is telling me that at 129K on the clock my issue is probably due to tie rods and the ball joints. He said I should probably do all of it and get it squared away.

Here is my question. I seem to be able to locate various parts for all of the above. From brand names like Moog and Timken to house brands and no name brands from Ebay (much cheaper in many cases). Can someone fill me in on what to go with? I want something that will last, but I don't want to pay twice the price for the same part out of the same factory with a brand name on it. I am looking at parts from Advance Auto for some of this stuff because I have a coupon good for $50 off of $150 so it's a pretty hefty savings, I also get 20% off at Autozone on parts. In addition, I seem to be able to find parts for the front suspension on ebay for really good prices. I have listed the parts I think I need below and my options. Would you all mind pointing me in the right direction?

Hub Assembly:
Timken - From AutoZone $243 Each 3 Yr warranty (I get 20% off at Autozone, price before discount)
Duralast - From AutoZone $169 Each 1 Yr warranty (I get 20% off at Autozone, price before discount)
Moog - From Advanced $243 Each 3 Yr warranty ($50 off $150 Coupon, price before discount)
DriveWorks - From AutoZone $169 Each 1 Yr warranty ($50 off $150 Coupon, price before discount)
Two Front Hubs off of Ebay - $169 for both from Detroit Axle (No tax free shipping no clue who makes them)

Tie Rods and Ball Joints:
Available various places either duralast from Autozone, Moog or Driveworks from Advanced, or no name from Ebay

Brakes:
Have no clue where to go here. Just want something that are better than the factory and will provide good brake life. Looks like power stops were recommended in another thread with EBC pads. May work for my application.

Suspension:
I need to replace my shocks all the way around. I was going to go with the Bilstein HD. However for a little more I could get a leveling kit and run the Bilstein 5100. Does anyone have experience with leveling kits? I believe I would also need the rear block to make the same height as the front. Any pointers? I have 245/65/16 on it now, and would like to go to 285/75/16.

If there is anything else that I should be doing at the same time that I am missing please fill me in.

Thank you in advance!

 

[SRMN8R]

I like using Moog components. I've never had a failure with them.

As for the brakes, if you're going to change out everything and upgrade, I'd go with a Baer system. If you don't NEED to upgrade, you can replace with factory components. That's what I did on my last couple of rigs, and they've served me well. However, I will most likely upgrade my Suburban to Baer. The original system sucks.

The Bilstein 5100's are a good adjustable "leveling" shock. I'm replacing my Ecklethorn's with a set in a couple of months on my Suburban project.

 

[RacerX29]

I've got a 2000 2500 Suburban, and second the opinion on Moog - used them to pretty much rebuild my front end w/ no issues. I swapped my autoride shocks for Bilstein HD (gotta splice in resistor to "fool" the computer, but it works & saves a bunch of $$$). I've leveled the truck just by playing with the keys - I'm planning on keep my 2000 for a while longer so I may eventually go for a leveling kit w/ the 5100's, it may help relieve some of the stress on the ball joints - I've heard nothing but good things about the 5100's. Re brakes, I went with Brembo OEM-replacement rotors all around and akebono pads, and have been pleased with results so far - good braking distance, no squeal and no noticable dust. I replaced most of the brake lines at the same time.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Sealed IFS wheel bearings, I repack mine!

I split my sealed wheel bearings "TIMPKIN" w/hub puller designed for FORD/DODGE/GM after removal of ABS sensor.

I loosen the 4 hub retaining bolts but do-not remove them then split hub w/puller, then remove retainers and other half, clean, repack and install new seal.

They go back together easy by bouncing a hammer around the circumference of the hub seating both halves.

Do at own risk, there are serious risks involved in doing such PM improperly and sole responsibility/liability falls upon the shoulders of the "actor".

 

[I Leak Oil]

Timken or Moog bearings, Moog ball joints, Wagner ceramic pads. Or look into factory parts from the dealer, the originals got you this far right? When it comes to parts like these, it's no place to skimp or gamble on the unknown brand stuff. Considering the labor involved, you only want to do it once.
While it's torn down that far you want to evaluate the cv joints and front diff seals.

 

[BPMOU]

Thanks for the replies. I found out that I needed a pitman and idler arm and a front hub. I was able to go moog on all parts and did both hubs. Was able to save 150 using the 50 off coupon at advanced.

I have a buddy who is a mobile mechanic taking care of it today. Both hubs and pitman and idler arm for 100 in labor.

I will check out my brake options too.

 

[BPMOU]

I have been investigating leveling kits as well. As of right now I am considering the Truxxx leveling kit with their 1.5 inch blocks for the rear.

If I go this route I will go with the Bilstein 5100 with that setup and should be within the spec for that shock an setup.

From there I will move up to 285/75 16. Anyone know I a full size spare will fit under a burb? Had the thing on a lift to look at exhaust and it looks like it could fit.

 

[I Leak Oil]

I have a buddy who is a mobile mechanic taking care of it today. Both hubs and pitman and idler arm for 100 in labor.

Good deal on the labor!

 

[BPMOU]

Yeah it was a good deal. He r and r a new motor in my dads xj for 500.

 

[4x4x4doors]

FWIW, the upper balljoints on GM IFS seem to always escape the grease gun at most shops doing a lube. DIY to be sure it really gets done. Adds significantly to their life.

 

[I Leak Oil]

FWIW, the upper balljoints on GM IFS seem to always escape the grease gun at most shops doing a lube. DIY to be sure it really gets done. Adds significantly to their life.

I'd add the idler arm to the list of parts that escape being greased as well. Good point.

 

[DoMiNiC1]

I run 285's on my 2500 with no lift or leveling. =)

 

[BPMOU]

I run 285's on my 2500 with no lift or leveling. =)

What kind of tire are you running?