New Rover...

01001010

Adventurer
I'm still undecided about what I want to do with the rear axle. Its either ARB diff in the stock housing with HD axles, OR Sals with an ARB. I'd like to keep everything as original as possible but this truck WILL be the overlander so I've got to make a decision quick since I'll be tackling reassembly soon.

The only repair needed to the frame is at the front horns. Besides that, the whole thing is in GREAT condition.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
I'd go with a Salisbury and open diff if you aren't planning on a gear change. That way you get the large gearset and heavy-duty axleshafts. I tend to question the need for lockers on an overland rig. A good winch and a good set of tires should be all that is required.

I have ARBs F/R on my CJ-5, and even on the toughest trails they're usually off 95% of the time. The front is rarely used.

If you're changing gears or refreshing the carrier bearings, then you're in there anyway and might as well go for it, but I don't see a locker as a must-have.
 

Michael Slade

Untitled
I'll disagree with the need for a locker on an expedition rig...especially a Rover.

Series Rovers don't suffer from this as much, but any coil-sprung Land Rover is inescapably cursed. The true achilles heel of the modern coil-sprung Land Rover is the very weak third-member. The pins are barely there, and when they go they usually plow a hole through the diff-housing. Plan on them breaking at about 150K and you limping home trailing a path of oil (like I did one morning...).

IMO, the third-members ought to be replaced with something...ANYTHING better than what came stock. The ARB (remember...I'm biased...), seems to be a good option and even if you never engage it once is a worthwhile upgrade. Honestly, my '94 LWB has them front and rear, and I've never even bothered to hook them up to the compressor...and it's been 7 years since I installed them. Never engaged once...never regretted the upgrade.

You don't hear of the weak third-member on the Series trucks, which is what the OP is clearly working on. I just wanted to add my .02 cents to the locker/no locker discussion.

Yes there are a lot of viable replacements, I just happen to like ARB. ;)
 

01001010

Adventurer
My only excuse for even considering a locker is for Florida wheelin, which envolves A LOT of muddy water crossing. Besides that, I'm in total agreement with what you and others have mentioned about locking. The Sals. thread has been helpful. We'll see what I decide to go with.

W/e I do, the whole theme for the project is "Keep it simple"
 
Last edited:

Yorker

Adventurer
01001010 said:
The only repair needed to the frame is at the front horns. Besides that, the whole thing is in GREAT condition.

You could extend them and put rear 88" springs up there. I think TAW was considering that mod.
 

Mercedesrover

Explorer
Michael Slade said:
I'll disagree with the need for a locker on an expedition rig...especially a Rover. Series Rovers don't suffer from this as much....

Oh, sure they do, but usually they break axles first.

Mike is right. On a Series Rover, and especially a 109 that will be used as an overland vehicle, a stronger diff is a necessity. There are many options but leaving an open, stock, Rover-type, 10-spline axle won't cut it. Not for a loaded, overland expedition 109.

A Salisbury or an ARB in a 24-spline housing and better axles are the minimum I would want. And one benefit a selectable locker that is hardly ever mentioned is that if you break an axle out in the bush you can lock up the diff and still drive the truck as normal. With an open diff you're either driving home on the front axle or dead in the water.

jim
 

Yorker

Adventurer
Michael Slade said:
You don't hear of the weak third-member on the Series trucks, which is what the OP is clearly working on. I just wanted to add my .02 cents to the locker/no locker discussion.

Yes there are a lot of viable replacements, I just happen to like ARB.


I think that is because the 2wd option blows the 10 spline half shafts first! ;)
 

DCH109

Adventurer
01001010 said:
I'm still undecided about what I want to do with the rear axle. Its either ARB diff in the stock housing with HD axles, OR Sals with an ARB. I'd like to keep everything as original as possible but this truck WILL be the overlander so I've got to make a decision quick since I'll be tackling reassembly soon.

The only repair needed to the frame is at the front horns. Besides that, the whole thing is in GREAT condition.

Good to hear on the frame. that should save a lot of work.

I would go with a Sals minimum if keeping it all original. You could always look for a locker later. I might know someone who is selling one soon (including the drive shaft) ;).

Did you find a Galvanizer?

Not sure if any of these will take a frame, but worth a try.

http://www.galvan-ize.com/
http://www.southatlanticllc.com/

In Bristol Va
http://www.zinc-partners.com/pages/1/index.htm
 

01001010

Adventurer
Ok, so per the Sals thread, I want either a Sals with an ARB OR a Yota (Tundra) 4.7 Diff/Axle.

For the sake of keeping thins Rover (somewhat)...I think I may just go for the Sals. The owner of the local Rover shop just brought a 130 over from NZ. I may just get the Sals off of him.
 

Yorker

Adventurer
01001010 said:
Ok, so per the Sals thread, I want either a Sals with an ARB OR a Yota (Tundra) 4.7 Diff/Axle.

For the sake of keeping thins Rover (somewhat)...I think I may just go for the Sals. The owner of the local Rover shop just brought a 130 over from NZ. I may just get the Sals off of him.


The Tundra Center in 4.7 ratio in a Rover housing is a pretty cool option though. I'm really tempted to do that in the rear of my '65.
 

01001010

Adventurer
Yorker said:
The Tundra Center in 4.7 ratio in a Rover housing is a pretty cool option though. I'm really tempted to do that in the rear of my '65.

SO it will fit in a Rover housing? Any modifications required??
 

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