3d fj's m416 build thread

[3d fj]

I thought it was about time to create my own build thread and document the things that I've done, the things that I plan to do, and the many problems along the way that I have or will have. I've been reading through many threads here have found things in every one that have given me ideas or answered some questions that I've had.

April 30, 2013 - I picked up this '66 m416 trailer. Drove about 6.5 hours to Buffalo, NY to get it and back home. 13 hours of driving in one day may seem like a lot to some people just for a trailer, but when there's a good one that far, and none in between worth much, the drive isn't that bad. I did get meet up with some friends and had lunch at one of my favorite restaurants in the Buffalo area.

Here it sits ready to drive home.



Everything except the rims and tires was hit with an epoxy primer. The previous owner had plans to build it up, but due to certain cirumstances, had to sell it. It turns out that he lives between Buffalo and Colorado and happens to spend only about 2-3 weeks at a time in Buffalo. This time, timing was on my side.

For the most part the tub rails are straight. I really don't notice it when it is behind the truck. I am quite happy with it. Lets see... What do i have in store for it.
(in no particular order)

- SOA
- Hard Lid - (ordered from cascadia vehicle tents NOTE***Bobby Culpepper is a great guy to work with)
- Wheel adapters so i can run matching wheels to the truck (ordered from www.motorsport-tech.com)
- AT lunette to receiver hitch adapter (ordered)
- Maxcoupler (ordered)
- Wheels/Tires
- Tongue extension
- Fuel can mount
- Spare tire mount (maybe)
- Paint to match truck

There are probably a few more things that I will think of to do, but for now, this is what I can think of off the top of my head. The tow rig for this trailer is my '03 LX470. It's slightly modded :sombrero:



Tonight i will post more with questions I'm having and hopefully some of you can steer me in the right direction.

 

[Flashole]

Nice looking trailer. Well worth the drive! Nice tow vehicle too.

Can't wait to follow along with your build.

ETA......I just noticed that you have the exact same recessed tie downs as I did in mine. Do you plan on leaving them?

 

[3d fj]

Nice looking trailer. Well worth the drive! Nice tow vehicle too.

Can't wait to follow along with your build.

ETA......I just noticed that you have the exact same recessed tie downs as I did in mine. Do you plan on leaving them?

Are you talking about these?



I don't have any tie downs on the inside of these. I've been trying to find ones that would fit the bolt width (either vertically, horizontally, or diagonally) but i haven't been able to. Looked at e-trailer.com, and harborfreight. I think i may weld a plate to the inside of these and then weld or bolt a tie down to that. I'm still trying to figure out how i wanna go with this. There definitely has to be tie downs inside as if i'm wheeling with the trailer, last thing i need is everything inside just going everywhere, or worse, things bouncing around, denting the tub even more, and then cracking the paint (when i paint it).

 

[3d fj]

Anyone know if I remove the 6 nuts on the brake backing plate, will i need to remove the hub assembly to get to the head of the bolt in order to tighten them back down? Better yet... Does anyone know where i can find the instructions on hub servicing?

Edit. A little reading goes a long way. I found in my manual, a hub diagram but it doesn't really have instructions. They assume quite a bit so it's really not a guide per se. I guess i will do a bearing repack anyway so i suppose i will answer my own question on the bolts. I do have one question though. How do i remove the hub cap? Is it just a matter of getting a flat instrument under the lip and pry off?

 

[Aspen Trails Trailers]

I am not sure how large the tie down area is, but try Ace Hardware, they have trap door pulls, that work well for a recessed tie down. They just might fit over the bolts, or could be drilled out. I had a box van that we used for my son's pit truck for motocross. We endowed it one night and the bikes were sill attached to the tiedowns hanging upside down. Pretty strong stuff. On the bolts man I have no idea. Have never touched one of those trailers in my life. Some one on here will help you out I am sure.

Have fun.

Bob

 

[3d fj]

I am not sure how large the tie down area is, but try Ace Hardware, they have trap door pulls, that work well for a recessed tie down. They just might fit over the bolts, or could be drilled out. I had a box van that we used for my son's pit truck for motocross. We endowed it one night and the bikes were sill attached to the tiedowns hanging upside down. Pretty strong stuff. On the bolts man I have no idea. Have never touched one of those trailers in my life. Some one on here will help you out I am sure.

Have fun.

Bob

Thanks bob. that's a great idea. I will check them out this week. If that doesn't work, there will be yet another project for the welder.

 

[Vantage]

A nice trailer is always worth the drive.

I went from Vancouver -> Calgary and back in 1 day. 21 hours of straight driving and completely worth it!

 

[BADDANDY]

I do have one question though. How do i remove the hub cap? Is it just a matter of getting a flat instrument under the lip and pry off?

Yes, it may take some work as they're supposed to be siliconed.

 

[Flashole]

Are you talking about these?



I don't have any tie downs on the inside of these. I've been trying to find ones that would fit the bolt width (either vertically, horizontally, or diagonally) but i haven't been able to. Looked at e-trailer.com, and harborfreight. I think i may weld a plate to the inside of these and then weld or bolt a tie down to that. I'm still trying to figure out how i wanna go with this. There definitely has to be tie downs inside as if i'm wheeling with the trailer, last thing i need is everything inside just going everywhere, or worse, things bouncing around, denting the tub even more, and then cracking the paint (when i paint it).

Yes, they are identical to the ones that were on my trailer except it looks like your tie-down loops have been removed. Are they all missing?

Most of the others that I've seen are round. I just thought my trailer was an odd ball, but apparently not.

I removed all mine because I didn't like the look of them and I was worried about the rust underneath. If you aren't removing yours and you want the tie-downs loops, you can have them. That is if I can get them apart without tearing them up. I had the best 6 sand blasted and powder coated and they look brand new. The others are pretty rusted up, but they could probably be cleaned up.

ETA.....If you haven't already found it, there is a service manual for the M416 trailers. Here is the link. http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/pdf/trailer/m416.pdf

 

[3d fj]

Yes, they are identical to the ones that were on my trailer except it looks like your tie-down loops have been removed. Are they all missing?

Most of the others that I've seen are round. I just thought my trailer was an odd ball, but apparently not.

I removed all mine because I didn't like the look of them and I was worried about the rust underneath. If you aren't removing yours and you want the tie-downs loops, you can have them. That is if I can get them apart without tearing them up. I had the best 6 sand blasted and powder coated and they look brand new. The others are pretty rusted up, but they could probably be cleaned up.

ETA.....If you haven't already found it, there is a service manual for the M416 trailers. Here is the link. http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/pdf/trailer/m416.pdf

Most definitely I'll take them. I'll send you a pm. Thanks.

 

[Mark Harley]

It will look awesome with color matched paint and matching wheels!

 

[3d fj]

Today, i removed the hub cap. It was quite straight forward on mine. I used a flat head screw driver and a mallet to tease it off. I was able to bend back the retaining washer, and remove the first nut using a pair of channel locks. The second (inner) nut i don't know if i'll be able to remove in the same manner. I dare not round off the edges. I went to sears, autozone, and ace hardware today to find a 2-1/16" socket. No one had it. I will have to order one tomorrow. When i opened the hub, it seemed pretty clean and it did have grease inside. I am planning on converting it to SOA and I'd like to be able to remove the brake backing plate and then roll the axle instead of swapping the axle right to left. I want to keep the brake line above the axle. I feel that it would be safer to do in a wheeling scenario. I would like to remove the hubs to make sure that if I need to reach the backing plate bolt head to tighten the backing plate down that i can. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find out whether i need to access these bolt heads to do this. i've searched here, mud, google. But no how to or answer to this question. I'm going back out in a bit to look at the hub again. Once I do the SOA, I will post pics and instructions on the how to. There's another forum member (donbeasley i think) who has this written on his build thread, but it doesn't really say whether or not access to the bolt heads are necessary. I can't reach him. Guess i'll have to go this one alone. :snorkel:

 

[Flashole]

Today, i removed the hub cap. It was quite straight forward on mine. I used a flat head screw driver and a mallet to tease it off. I was able to bend back the retaining washer, and remove the first nut using a pair of channel locks. The second (inner) nut i don't know if i'll be able to remove in the same manner. I dare not round off the edges. I went to sears, autozone, and ace hardware today to find a 2-1/16" socket. No one had it. I will have to order one tomorrow. When i opened the hub, it seemed pretty clean and it did have grease inside. I am planning on converting it to SOA and I'd like to be able to remove the brake backing plate and then roll the axle instead of swapping the axle right to left. I want to keep the brake line above the axle. I feel that it would be safer to do in a wheeling scenario. I would like to remove the hubs to make sure that if I need to reach the backing plate bolt head to tighten the backing plate down that i can. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find out whether i need to access these bolt heads to do this. i've searched here, mud, google. But no how to or answer to this question. I'm going back out in a bit to look at the hub again. Once I do the SOA, I will post pics and instructions on the how to. There's another forum member (donbeasley i think) who has this written on his build thread, but it doesn't really say whether or not access to the bolt heads are necessary. I can't reach him. Guess i'll have to go this one alone. :snorkel:

I dumped my axle for a new one with brakes, so i really can't offer much help there. Just IM Don. He's very helpful and will respond back sooner or later. As for the hub, I was able to get both of mine off with channel locks. While you have it apart, you might as well replace the bearings

 

[Mark Harley]

See if this helps.................

http://www.jeepdraw.com/TM_9-2330-251-14.pdf

 

[Elk]

I was following this one for sale on eBay. It looks like you found a really good deal on a well prepped trailer. I was looking to make the same drive myself. Congratulations on a very solid purchase!

You may wish to check the strap section of your local Home Depot for recessed tie down anchors. I was eyeing them last week for a similar purpose.