Mike's M416 Rebuild
- Thread starter amnt
- Start date
I just keep getting deeper and deeper into this trailer. I have decided to slow down and do a little more to the trailer. I am going to extend the tongue so I can add a storage box. I also am going to add a hitch receiver to the back to carry a basket.
On Tuesday, I found a RTT listed on craigslist and just had to go see it. Well, needless to say it is now mine. I think I got a pretty good deal. It is new, never camped in, and has been in storage for a few months. It was used as a display on an FJ at a local dealership. It is the ARB tent and I got if for $650.00. Frankly, I feel like I stole it.
Time to get this project moving again. I want to use the tent!
On Tuesday, I found a RTT listed on craigslist and just had to go see it. Well, needless to say it is now mine. I think I got a pretty good deal. It is new, never camped in, and has been in storage for a few months. It was used as a display on an FJ at a local dealership. It is the ARB tent and I got if for $650.00. Frankly, I feel like I stole it.
Time to get this project moving again. I want to use the tent!
DonBeasley
Adventurer
LOL
The Holy Grail of M416's----scissor lift that is easy. We have seen actuators, scissor jacks, hydraulic four corner lifts, and the list goes on . I don't think anyone has come up with an easy, one button or easy pushup that will allow a full annex room use.
If you design it you will be rich!!!!!!!!!!
The Holy Grail of M416's----scissor lift that is easy. We have seen actuators, scissor jacks, hydraulic four corner lifts, and the list goes on . I don't think anyone has come up with an easy, one button or easy pushup that will allow a full annex room use.
If you design it you will be rich!!!!!!!!!!
This project is driving me crazy. Every time I look at the trailer, I want to do something more. I am going to try to come up with a scissor system that runs on hydraulics and is mounted to the trailer top rather than the tub or frame. This should allow me to access the trailer while the tent is in the down position. The trick is being able to access the trailer with the tent up or down. I think I can accomplish this by building an access door(s) in the top that can be used while the tent is up. There is still a lot of issues and concerns that need to be worked out. In the end, is it all worth it.
Well I am back at it and have a question about the lunnette. I understand that it should spin or rotate for articulation. I have repainted the frame and I am wondering if I should strip the paint from the lunnette and the receiver and polish the tapered landing area to reduce the friction. I have tried to find a previous post on this but have had no success. If anyone can direct me in the right directions that would be great. I am also planning on moving the lunnette to the lower position but am having a hard time finding a grease zerk to fit the threaded hole for the lower position. Any suggestions?
Mike
Mike
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
Tighten the castle nut until you can insert the cotter pin.
The spring keeps pressure on the taper.
http://www.jeepdraw.com/TM_9-2330-251-14.pdf
The spring keeps pressure on the taper.
http://www.jeepdraw.com/TM_9-2330-251-14.pdf
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Per the manual tighten nut until a 0.010 in or .25 mm feeler gauge inserted between the coils of spring can be removed with a slight drag. PM me your email and I can send you a copy of the manual.
The feeler gauge method mentioned in the tm is what was changed by TACOM, because it was a precision measurement on a "rough, painted surface" which could be ineffective. According to the change you should tighten the nut "until it stops" then loosen it a full turn, then line it up for the cotter pin.
DonBeasley
Adventurer
Not sure how high this opens as I am not at home but photo may help. I have struts mounted at center of tub and about 8" from edge. Other consideration was making sure I could reach handle to pull closed. Did not want it too high.
