The War Wagon: A 2005 Toyota Tundra AC's transformation to Overlanding Rig

CrewServed

"That" guy
What's good, ExPo? I've been lurking for a little while, gathering ideas and inspiration from some of the awesome rigs you guys have been putting together. I've done as much homework as I can stand (for now), and have finally pulled the trigger on purchasing upgrades and equipment to begin taking some vehicle-dependent expeditions.

It's easy to just throw wads of hundred dollar bills at something, buying the coolest of the cool-guy kit, but I'm approaching this project with pragmatism and finance in careful balance. I've broken my upgrades and equipment list into "Must Have," "Should Have," "Nice to Have," and "If There's Money Left Over" categories. I'll explain each purchase as I post them so that other noobs like me can get an idea why I've arrived at a certain brand of kit over another, or why I chose to purchase or forgo purchases.

I'm starting with a 2005 Toyota Tundra Access Cab (TRD Off-Road package). I bought this rig in 2009 with 48k miles on the clock from a guy who was originally from Vermont. This comes into play later. Much later. Four years later, in fact. I've now got 106k on the clock and had some long-standing issues as a result of a fender bender on I-80E in Truckee, when me and everybody else on the road slid inexorably into the center median and into one another, as well. The D/S fender was crushed a mere 6 months after I'd bought the truck, and I learned later that the P/S sway bar link also broke.

I've since repaired the sway bar links, and then saw to doing something with that mangled D/S fender, since it seemed silly to make so many upgrades and additions to the truck without first addressing the jacked-up body.

aINsOauh.jpg

Here I've got the old fender torn off. It was trickier than I thought it would be, and I ended up having to buy new grommets to replace the ones I destroyed in the process. For those of you messing with 1999-2006 Tundras, the plastic grommets for mounting wheel well liners and fender flares are available online and are known as C22 grommets.

YYJ2ZF5h.jpg

I sourced an aftermarket pre-primed fender on Amazon for a whopping $107 (yay Amazon Prime!) and dry fitted. Fit was off and needed some help from a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. I actually pondered leaving it primer black, but decided against it, since paint and metal oxidation are certainly threats to this new panel.

hyiA0Qdh.jpg

The newly-painted fender is mostly installed. Hell yeah.

nTezIi4h.jpg

Bam! Finished!

On the list for performance upgrades are exactly three items.

1. New shocks all around. I'd actually like some advice on this from some of the experienced guys in the forum. I've zeroed in on the Bilstein 5100's, but am not 100% set just yet. I know for sure that the leveling spacer in the front struts of this rig is a no-go. What's more, I noticed while I was farting around inside the wheel well that the seals are shot in the OEM shocks, there's a considerable amount of rust around the head of the shock, and I'm getting some gnarly scalloping on the inside lines of the front tire treads, plus some pretty uneven wear in the front tires.

2. New shoes. I'm pretty set on getting five BFG T/A KO in 285/75/R16. I currently have Nitto A/T Grapplers on these aluminum TRD wheels, but they've got at least 60k miles on them.

3. New wheels. This is driven mainly by the fact that I've got 3" aluminum wheel spacers that the previous owner installed on this truck. I assume that it has something to do with tire rub in the wheel well, but I'm new to this, so please correct me if I'm wrong. I don't like the spacers. Just applying my rudimentary knowledge of how stuff works, I don't think this is as solid a setup as just having wheels mounted directly to the hubs. That said, what's the solution to tire rub? Says on the internetz that the TRD wheels have a 4.5" backspacing. Is the solution to buy a new set of wheels with a shallower backspacing? Also, what's the consensus on getting plain-Jane black steelies for this rig instead of a pricey set of wheels that'll induce cringing every time I mash them up against rocks and other harder-than-metal items?

Alright, thanks for reading all of this, and thanks in advance for your input. Stay tuned for an update of some equipment I recently received from Santa (aka the UPS guy).
 

Derek24

Explorer
Can't go wrong with 5100's. I have had spacers, 5100's, Icon Coilovers, then back now to 5100's and OME 885 springs. Either the 885, 886 OME springs for the 2nd gen Tacoma's (05+) have great reviews for our trucks, and is pretty new for us 1st gen owners. 885s have a lower spring rate, 886s are higher. This setup will give you around 3 inches of lift leaving the spring perch on the 5100 at the first or second notch, no higher. The ride is great and what i wish I did in the beginning. For rims and rubbing I'd fine a wheel with a 4" BS, but that doesnt mean your tire will not rub, I feel it varies from truck to truck. You can trim the pinch weld which helps alot. Check out tundra solutions as well, lots of info there. Where in the Bay Area are you?
 

CrewServed

"That" guy
Awesome, thanks for the input. I was flip-flopping on whether or not I should replace the OEM coils during the upgrade, and your input is certainly swaying me in the "upgrade" direction. I'll be putting a little bit of weight on the front end with a new bumper and winch, so I may have to compensate for that with new springs.

I know I could probably just Google it, but what's the deal with spring rate? I want to be educated on this, since I know nothing about it.

Oh, and I live in Concord. Not exactly the camping capital of the world, but it's nice here. Well, nice-ish. Are you from the Bay, too?

-Paul
 

Derek24

Explorer
Cool I'm right above you, sorta, north bay, Santa Rosa. With spring rates it just means the stiffness and more/less weight it will hold. For your situation with a bumper and winch then 886 springs, which are heavier rated (not sure what lbs spring it is) are what you want if you go with OME (Old Man Emu) springs. The OME springs are longer than the stock springs giving you lift. With stock springs and 5100s you'll have to move the spring perch on the 5100 up to achieve lift which in turn compresses the spring. I've done both and I can say it rides much better with the OME springs!
 

stclair

Adventurer
Nice Tundra! I'll be watching your thread as I am also trying to build my 2002 Tundra with no idea of what I am doing. I just bought an ARB compressor, and getting ready to get an ARB locker for the rear(then maybe the front). I am working on getting a set of plain old stock Tundra 16 hole steelies as well. I plan on adding a front bumper with winch, and rear with swing-away for 2-4 cans and another spare. Also planning to add a FWC Fleet(shell), so will need to upgrade the springs to handle the weight. I'd like to lift/level it but no more 2.5" total lift. Thinking OME, or ICON...but really open. Good luck with your build, I'll be watching!
 

Stone_Blue

Adventurer
When you say 3" wheel spacers, do you mean 3" total (ie 1.5" per side), or do you mean actual 3" on EACH side?...By the pics, I assume 1.5" on each side.

Another thing that may help with wheel rub, AND upper ball joint issues if you go a full 2.5"-3" lift, is to get longer upper control arms. The Big 3 are Camburg, Total Chaos, and now the SPC Light Racing UCAs.

285/65s are pretty much the go-to choice for tires on the 1st Gen with mild lifts, so probably pretty safe with that size.
As to wheels and rubbing, I would try pulling off the spacers and see exactly where you are rubbing.
Then, I would definately wait till after the lift and all suspension work/maintenance is done to spend $$ on new wheels. Get your complete suspension checked over and up to 100%. Get the tires of your choice. Then get them mounted, and also a lifetime alignment. Once everything is done and aligned, then remove the spacers and see if you have rub, and where it is.
I guess sometimes a bad alignment, when magnified by a lift, can cause rubbing issues.
Then you can see if you need new wheels to lose the spacers and not rub.

I also went with the 5100/885 setup, though I have zero miles on it yet...lol

IIRC, the spring rate on the 885s is 650lbs, and the 886s are 690 or 710lbs...??

I second Wheeler's Offroad...They have everything you may need...Which, reminds me, you'll need new Tacoma rubber coil insulators if you go with OME coils....Which Wheeler's have.
Their prices are about the best, and since they pretty much carry everything, it makes for a one-stop order, instead of having to order from five different places to get the best price. YotaDan (a Wheelers employee), just posted yesterday on TS that Wheeler's currently has both 885 and 886s in stock right now.

Here's a good starting thread to read on the 5100/OME setup:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/229249-average-lift-out-ome-coils-883-a/
 

CrewServed

"That" guy
When you say 3" wheel spacers, do you mean 3" total (ie 1.5" per side), or do you mean actual 3" on EACH side?
Each side, my man. I really don't know what that dude was thinking. I've been thinking about taking the wheel spacers off just to see how the truck does what the truck does when I'm driving it, but just haven't committed the hour or so that I'll need to do it.

Thanks for the advice on the order of operation for the suspension/wheel/tire upgrade. I'd been banging that around in my head and had arrived at what you've advised, so it's good to know that I'm not a complete imbecile, wearing a tutu and swinging an impact wrench by the hose around my head like a helicopter.

Good heads-up on the rubber coil insulators. Thanks a bunch. I'll make a fatty order at Wheeler's after I've done my research so I can get the War Wagon riding the way she ought to.
 

sourdough

Adventurer
If a 265x75x16 fits and is 32" tall. Why go to all the expense and issues changing to a 33" tire that has only 1/2" more useable height?:peepwall:
 

stclair

Adventurer
If you are staying with stock size tires... sure. Anything larger is going to rub unless you get the backspacing on the wheels right (or use wheel spacers).

Dang, didn't know that and really like the look of the 16 hole steel type OEM wheels, and not the Wheelers offering I saw. Any other options for similar type steel wheels? FJ steelies? Thanks! Oh, one more thing...so if the OEM steelies are 4.5, am I looking for a 4 or 5 to run 275 or 285 tires?
 

Stone_Blue

Adventurer
You'ld want LESS than the 4.5 for wider tires....

Just be aware its a give and take....

Wider tires on stock 4.5 will give less room between the inner sidewall and UCA (upper control arm), and also the inner sidewall and frame ...So you go with LESS backspacing to "push" out the wheel/tire combo, to give more room between the sidewall and UCA and frame....

HOWEVER, when you "push" out the wheel, you are effectively lengthening the radius of the arc that the tire follows when turning, so you are effectively also "push"-ing the OUTER sidewall closer to the top edge of the fender when the suspension is compressed, and at full turn, the end of the bumper, and most importantly, closer to the pinch weld....

So if you have too much BS, you'll rub...Too little BS, and you'll also rub, just in different places...Gotta find a sweet spot, depending on the tire/wheel/lift combo you want....
 

CrewServed

"That" guy
You guys are great. I'm loving the discussion, and I'm learning so much. sourdough asked the question about the added expense of a 285/75/16 tire over a 265/75/16 tire with only a 1/2" gain in useable height. I'd like to say that I did the math and it supports my decision (3" of gained circumference, btw), but it's not really that. I arrived at my decision for a couple of reasons. The main reason is that after reading an article on the merits of a taller and skinnier tire, I knew that I wanted that taller tire, even if it is only an inch taller. Hell, if 285/80/16 was easy and inexpensive to have, I'd give those a try. The second reason is that I'm currently running a set of 285/75/16 D-load rated tires from the previous owner, and they seem to be doing the trick. Plus, I do like the way they look. Real talk: part of it is vanity.

Today I put some time aside in the afternoon to go rip those wheel spacers off of the truck. I mentioned earlier that they were 3" spacers. I was wrong. I'd been eyeballing them for years and just calling it 3", but as it turns out, they are 2" spacers. My bad.

msCbHey.jpg


Anyway, it took some doing, but I've got all four corners at stock width now. That's a plus. I'm not sure if you can tell in the next couple of pictures, but the first one is of the P/S rear wheel, which still had the spacer at the time of the photograph, and the next picture is the P/S front wheel, which had the spacer removed

U1YAkQC.jpg

Fuyi0zw.jpg


Verdict is that it looks fine, and seems to ride better. Admittedly, the improved ride might have something to do with how the truck was off its front wheels for 30-45 minutes. I do get some rubbing on the frame at the back end of the wheel well when I'm turned completely to the left or right, but other than that, no problems. I'll still address that issue, though.

Oh, and while I had the front wheels off, I decided to take a picture of the suspension to show you guys just the hell is going on in there. I meant to take a picture of the rear suspension so that maybe you more knowledgeable fellas could tell me if I've got a stock setup or some caddywampus "upgrade" in the rear, but I got busy and forgot to take a picture.

ZKbbOHj.jpg

LUgjfWC.jpg


I'm not 100% certain of it, but I'm pretty sure it's a hot mess. It needs fixing, so far as I'm concerned, so I'll fix it.

Oh, and of course, here's a quick picture of the entire rig in its current state.
qE1oTu9.jpg
 

stclair

Adventurer
You'ld want LESS than the 4.5 for wider tires....

Just be aware its a give and take....

Wider tires on stock 4.5 will give less room between the inner sidewall and UCA (upper control arm), and also the inner sidewall and frame ...So you go with LESS backspacing to "push" out the wheel/tire combo, to give more room between the sidewall and UCA and frame....

HOWEVER, when you "push" out the wheel, you are effectively lengthening the radius of the arc that the tire follows when turning, so you are effectively also "push"-ing the OUTER sidewall closer to the top edge of the fender when the suspension is compressed, and at full turn, the end of the bumper, and most importantly, closer to the pinch weld....

So if you have too much BS, you'll rub...Too little BS, and you'll also rub, just in different places...Gotta find a sweet spot, depending on the tire/wheel/lift combo you want....

I sometimes wish I had just gotten a Tacoma! So much easier to build. However...we want a FWC, and the Tundra can handle it
 

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