Overland Hadley
on a journey
That scrap pile of RoadKill is the mark of a true craftsman.
Nice work as always Paul.
Nice work as always Paul.
2005 118" Sprinter Conversion for Alexander
- Thread starter PaulJensen
- Start date
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
Q & A...
O.H.... Thanks (as always) for the kind words...Your stoke helps to keep the fire burning hot...
M.H....For the 140", I think three boxes might be enough, four for sure...Leftovers would certainly get eaten up in some other dish...
J.A. (AKA: Alex)...No worries, my mojo is dialed in to getting the van back to you ASAP, but I'm not shortcutting to expedite your reunion...
O.H.... Thanks (as always) for the kind words...Your stoke helps to keep the fire burning hot...
M.H....For the 140", I think three boxes might be enough, four for sure...Leftovers would certainly get eaten up in some other dish...
J.A. (AKA: Alex)...No worries, my mojo is dialed in to getting the van back to you ASAP, but I'm not shortcutting to expedite your reunion...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
# 10
(above) The plastic seat belt concealer on the curb side had a big crack...
(above) On the outside (not seen here) I masking taped the break together...Flipped over, fiberglass cloth is laid over the split...
(above) Brushed on some epoxy resin...
(above) After the epoxy hardens the tape is pulled and the break is nothing more than a scratch...
(above) Garage door up and it's another fine late summer day, let's get started...
(above) The original composite plywood floor is brought back in, some countersunk holes were drilled, then self tapping screws were impact driven through to the steel floor...
(above) A bit scratched up, but the foundation is rock hard and flat...
(above) Before submerging myself into the cabinet building, the doors will get finished, hopefully in one day...Both rear doors will get a supplemental pull handle, an L-Track disk, and a drop down table...All the hardware gets bolted in place...For thread lock I like to use 90 second cure epoxy...Forces you to work fast...
(above) Curb side hardware installed...Having the hands the size of a giant, it takes a calm, patient approach to get the nuts on the bolts...Reverse masking tape on the middle finger gets the nut on the bolt, along with a serpentine wrist...Of course all the nuts get wrenched firmly...
The door latch was pulled out to get the handle bolts connected...Not fast and easy, but not more than an hour per door...Having it done right is what matters...
The new chrome plated brass handles are placed where they should be, as far from the hinges as possible...The factory placement of the curb side interior handle is about as wrong as it could be...And it's plastic...Inexcusable...
(above) Driver side rear door...Oh yeah, it feels as good as it looks...
(above) The plastic seat belt concealer on the curb side had a big crack...
(above) On the outside (not seen here) I masking taped the break together...Flipped over, fiberglass cloth is laid over the split...
(above) Brushed on some epoxy resin...
(above) After the epoxy hardens the tape is pulled and the break is nothing more than a scratch...
(above) Garage door up and it's another fine late summer day, let's get started...
(above) The original composite plywood floor is brought back in, some countersunk holes were drilled, then self tapping screws were impact driven through to the steel floor...
(above) A bit scratched up, but the foundation is rock hard and flat...
(above) Before submerging myself into the cabinet building, the doors will get finished, hopefully in one day...Both rear doors will get a supplemental pull handle, an L-Track disk, and a drop down table...All the hardware gets bolted in place...For thread lock I like to use 90 second cure epoxy...Forces you to work fast...
(above) Curb side hardware installed...Having the hands the size of a giant, it takes a calm, patient approach to get the nuts on the bolts...Reverse masking tape on the middle finger gets the nut on the bolt, along with a serpentine wrist...Of course all the nuts get wrenched firmly...
The door latch was pulled out to get the handle bolts connected...Not fast and easy, but not more than an hour per door...Having it done right is what matters...
The new chrome plated brass handles are placed where they should be, as far from the hinges as possible...The factory placement of the curb side interior handle is about as wrong as it could be...And it's plastic...Inexcusable...
(above) Driver side rear door...Oh yeah, it feels as good as it looks...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
# 10
(above) The L-Track discs give you some serious supplemental tie-down options...Options are good...
My ride...drop down table...See it...???...
(above) It is the second most favorite built-on that people like about my van...I'm putting one on each rear door of Alex's Sprinter...
(above) The future piano hinges need backing...First cut of what will be many...It's great to feel like a carpenter again...
(above) Screwed to the door...
(above) Driver side...
(above) Those three openings...I decided to use them for small storage...1/4" cork is contact cemented to the wall...
\(above) Then a wood bottom and sides were fitted in...Notice the screws attaching it, SS trim screws...They fit almost as close a rivet with an 1/8" hole through the steel...
(above) Fiberglass insulation fitted, and stuffed in place...Clear packing taped to the steel door...Where the license plate lights are, you can see what I did, aluminum tape over the fiberglass...What custom looks like...
(above) Curb side door ready for cover...
(above) The L-Track discs give you some serious supplemental tie-down options...Options are good...
My ride...drop down table...See it...???...
(above) It is the second most favorite built-on that people like about my van...I'm putting one on each rear door of Alex's Sprinter...
(above) The future piano hinges need backing...First cut of what will be many...It's great to feel like a carpenter again...
(above) Screwed to the door...
(above) Driver side...
(above) Those three openings...I decided to use them for small storage...1/4" cork is contact cemented to the wall...
\(above) Then a wood bottom and sides were fitted in...Notice the screws attaching it, SS trim screws...They fit almost as close a rivet with an 1/8" hole through the steel...
(above) Fiberglass insulation fitted, and stuffed in place...Clear packing taped to the steel door...Where the license plate lights are, you can see what I did, aluminum tape over the fiberglass...What custom looks like...
(above) Curb side door ready for cover...
Every Miles A Memory
Expedition Leader
All of your work is the definition of 'WHAT CUSTOM LOOKS LIKE' :costumed-smiley-007
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
# 10
(above) Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) are the panels for the doors...The top panel is attached with two adhesives...Silicone caulking around the perimeter, and contact cement for the middle...The silicone is the primary adhesive, and the contact cement locks it in place while the silicone cures...So easy this way...
(above) The holes were cut with a trimmer router with a pilot bearing bit...The lower panels are removable...Sheet metal screws are the fasteners...
(above) Curb side sliding door...
(above) Rear doors 90% done...Drop down tables come later...As well as some more tie-downs, hooks, shelving...Not sure what the mix will be right now...
(above) Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) are the panels for the doors...The top panel is attached with two adhesives...Silicone caulking around the perimeter, and contact cement for the middle...The silicone is the primary adhesive, and the contact cement locks it in place while the silicone cures...So easy this way...
(above) The holes were cut with a trimmer router with a pilot bearing bit...The lower panels are removable...Sheet metal screws are the fasteners...
(above) Curb side sliding door...
(above) Rear doors 90% done...Drop down tables come later...As well as some more tie-downs, hooks, shelving...Not sure what the mix will be right now...
VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
looks great, nice and clean.
southpier
Expedition Leader
thank you for introducing that ( and the link)
Overland Hadley
on a journey
I really like the three little storage spaces you made in the door. It is the little things that make a space nice to use.
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
# 11
(above) With the rear doors done, the walls of the rear cabin get filled with fiberglass insulation...
(above) Curb side...
(above) Over the insulation, 1/4" plywood is screwed to the metal walls...After each panel is placed, a quick electrical check is done to be sure no hidden wires got nicked with any of the screws...
(above) Driver side wall plywood done...Now the van has that nice and solid sound...Not a rattle box anymore...
(above) Curb side wall plywood...
(above) Wheel well boxes go in next...
(above) The boxes are glued , nailed and screwed to the walls and floor...The pieces of plywood on the floor are wedged tight to the wheel wells to clamp the WW boxes in place while the glue dries overnight...
(above) Speaker holes were cut out before the boxes were installed...
(above) Ready for the functional cabinetry that comes next...
(above) With the rear doors done, the walls of the rear cabin get filled with fiberglass insulation...
(above) Curb side...
(above) Over the insulation, 1/4" plywood is screwed to the metal walls...After each panel is placed, a quick electrical check is done to be sure no hidden wires got nicked with any of the screws...
(above) Driver side wall plywood done...Now the van has that nice and solid sound...Not a rattle box anymore...
(above) Curb side wall plywood...
(above) Wheel well boxes go in next...
(above) The boxes are glued , nailed and screwed to the walls and floor...The pieces of plywood on the floor are wedged tight to the wheel wells to clamp the WW boxes in place while the glue dries overnight...
(above) Speaker holes were cut out before the boxes were installed...
(above) Ready for the functional cabinetry that comes next...
Every Miles A Memory
Expedition Leader
That thing probably sounds so different now compared to when it was bare metal! Loving all the photos Paul!!
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
# 12
(above) Today, the rear cabinets come together...Using 1/2" ACX fir plywood, the basic parts are oversize cut by 3/4" and propped in place...
(above) Almost all the parts will be scribed to fit...For now, oversize is fine...
(above) Driver side cabinet, scribed, cut, fitted, scribed again, more cutting, re-fitted, then assembled...
(above) In place but far from being ready to install...
(above) I like the tablesaw to do the slightly curved scribed cuts....
(above) Over on the curb side will be the sink...The drain is over the tire...Now is the best time to get it in place...
(above) The stove will reside at the bottom of the sink cabinet when not in use...
(above) At the back of the sink cabinet, the notch is for the drain pipe, and wood stop blocks keep the stove from bumping into the drain...
(above) Loosely placed ...
(above) Both cabinet carcases are built, but still there is a lot to do before installing them...More tomorrow...
(above) Today, the rear cabinets come together...Using 1/2" ACX fir plywood, the basic parts are oversize cut by 3/4" and propped in place...
(above) Almost all the parts will be scribed to fit...For now, oversize is fine...
(above) Driver side cabinet, scribed, cut, fitted, scribed again, more cutting, re-fitted, then assembled...
(above) In place but far from being ready to install...
(above) I like the tablesaw to do the slightly curved scribed cuts....
(above) Over on the curb side will be the sink...The drain is over the tire...Now is the best time to get it in place...
(above) The stove will reside at the bottom of the sink cabinet when not in use...
(above) At the back of the sink cabinet, the notch is for the drain pipe, and wood stop blocks keep the stove from bumping into the drain...
(above) Loosely placed ...
(above) Both cabinet carcases are built, but still there is a lot to do before installing them...More tomorrow...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
# 13
(above) At 14", the driver side cabinet felt just a bit too deep, so I cut it down to 12"...
(above) It was easier to cut than I anticipated...Festool rail saw and a handsaw got it done...
(above) In the shop both cabinets get fine tuned...
(above) Drawer guide backing strips are installed vertically on the cabinet edges, and sturdy metal brackets are placed on the back edge to mount the case to the steel framing behind the van plywood wall...
(above) Driver side cabinet set, squared up, glued and screwed in place...
(above) The sink was cut into the curb side cabinet...
(above) The sink drain is caulked to the wheel well hole and strapped in place...
(above) On the side of the sink cabinet drop down brackets were bolted through the side of the case...
(above) T-nuts backed up with a jam nut...Guaranteed not to loosen...
(above) At 14", the driver side cabinet felt just a bit too deep, so I cut it down to 12"...
(above) It was easier to cut than I anticipated...Festool rail saw and a handsaw got it done...
(above) In the shop both cabinets get fine tuned...
(above) Drawer guide backing strips are installed vertically on the cabinet edges, and sturdy metal brackets are placed on the back edge to mount the case to the steel framing behind the van plywood wall...
(above) Driver side cabinet set, squared up, glued and screwed in place...
(above) The sink was cut into the curb side cabinet...
(above) The sink drain is caulked to the wheel well hole and strapped in place...
(above) On the side of the sink cabinet drop down brackets were bolted through the side of the case...
(above) T-nuts backed up with a jam nut...Guaranteed not to loosen...