Japanese SUV goodness: 2001 Isuzu Trooper

BigSwede

The Credible Hulk
I just noticed that Front Runner rack, didn't even know about it...I like it, but I'm just not sure I need a rack in general though.
 

BigSwede

The Credible Hulk
I was considering the OME rear stock/spring kit. Not aware of what they do for front lift? Maybe just a torsion bar crank?

At that point, it probably makes sense to install some HD bars, like you suggest.

the various OME springs will give you 1-2 inches of lift depending. A Trooper can easily tolerate 3 inches of torsion bar crank without much issue. A ball joint relocate and/or spacer can help with any camber issues resulting.
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
I just noticed that Front Runner rack, didn't even know about it...I like it, but I'm just not sure I need a rack in general though.

Definitely a chunk of change and a sure degridation of aerodynamics. For me, though, with three daughters and my wife - I need all the storage I can get so it's a necessary evil.

They love camping, but I have to keep them warm, fed and entertained. :D :D :D
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
the various OME springs will give you 1-2 inches of lift depending. A Trooper can easily tolerate 3 inches of torsion bar crank without much issue. A ball joint relocate and/or spacer can help with any camber issues resulting.

Thanks for that info. Is the independent4x ball joint spacer kit that I remember seeing on their site worth the money?

I don't know much about that modification, honestly.

Once I'm lifted an inch or three are there any resulting accelerations in wear on any parts like CV joints, etc?

My plan eventually is to install Aisin's or Warns (love to find a set of junkyard Aisins for less than $150.00 plus shipping) to help the CV joints and boots live a longer life, and to improve highway cruising mileage.
 

BigSwede

The Credible Hulk
Thanks for that info. Is the independent4x ball joint spacer kit that I remember seeing on their site worth the money?

I don't know much about that modification, honestly.

Once I'm lifted an inch or three are there any resulting accelerations in wear on any parts like CV joints, etc?

My plan eventually is to install Aisin's or Warns (love to find a set of junkyard Aisins for less than $150.00 plus shipping) to help the CV joints and boots live a longer life, and to improve highway cruising mileage.

If you are lifting under 3", I'm guessing you won't need the BJ spacer. Often the BJ "flip" (relocate the upper BJ to the underside of the control arm) is enough to allow for proper camber alignment. It easy to try the flip first; if the alignment shop (find a competent alignment shop, no "computerized" alignments have ever worked for my Trooper...but I found an alignment specialty shop that did it right the first time) can't get the camber in spec then a BJ spacer is warranted.

Manual hubs are nice for reducing CV wear, and you might pick up a half a mpg or so without the drag of the front drivetrain.

One other thing you can do is a diff drop. You can drop the front diff about 1.5" back and improve your CV angles (the CV joints are stronger when straighter). You can make your own drop brackets by cutting and rewelding the stock diff brackets, or buy from someone like Joe Darlington on Planet Isuzoo. But be advised this is a fairly involved install, requiring you to drop the entire front axle assembly...something that I have done several times but never enjoyed.

Definitely a chunk of change and a sure degridation of aerodynamics. For me, though, with three daughters and my wife - I need all the storage I can get so it's a necessary evil.

Sure, I can see that. For me though it is usually just me and the dog. I just don't need to put stuff on the roof.
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
If you are lifting under 3", I'm guessing you won't need the BJ spacer. Often the BJ "flip" (relocate the upper BJ to the underside of the control arm) is enough to allow for proper camber alignment. It easy to try the flip first; if the alignment shop (find a competent alignment shop, no "computerized" alignments have ever worked for my Trooper...but I found an alignment specialty shop that did it right the first time) can't get the camber in spec then a BJ spacer is warranted.

Manual hubs are nice for reducing CV wear, and you might pick up a half a mpg or so without the drag of the front drivetrain.

One other thing you can do is a diff drop. You can drop the front diff about 1.5" back and improve your CV angles (the CV joints are stronger when straighter). You can make your own drop brackets by cutting and rewelding the stock diff brackets, or buy from someone like Joe Darlington on Planet Isuzoo. But be advised this is a fairly involved install, requiring you to drop the entire front axle assembly...something that I have done several times but never enjoyed.



Sure, I can see that. For me though it is usually just me and the dog. I just don't need to put stuff on the roof.

Again, thanks for all the info.

As far as lifting past 3" or even 1-2" for that matter, I'm fairly committed to keeping this truck unlifted. One reason I got rid of my Jeep was the fact that I never felt the need to lift it past 2", and thus the ability to lift a jeep so easily, with so many companies to choose from became a moot point. My only goal with the rear springs would be to add to the load capacity, as I tend to always be right at or over the GVWR. I've run OME's before and really appreciate how well they stay within stock specs as far as ride height. The front crank again, would only be to level it out with the rear and compensate for any loss in height from the winch bumper/winch combo up front. I plan on running a very modest, smallish tire on this rig. something in the 235-85/235-75ish range. I LOVE my General grabbers right now, though, I could see myself moving to a BFG AT in a few years if I can come up with the $$.
 

BigSwede

The Credible Hulk
OK, in that case there is also an OME 913 spring that is zero lift...sounds like what you are after!
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Hey, I fired up a username over at planetizuzoo (BigdaddySD) and posted a new topic, but it didn't show up. Do new members' posts go through an moderator approval process?

Edit: nevermind. it finally showed up...haha!
 
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BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Alright, well, just an update - Cabby is still running strong. Just swapped oil and filled'er full of Rotella oil. Lots of folks using it over on the the Planet with good results.

I have NOT been keeping track of my mpgs since I added my ARB, and honestly I don't really care..haha. This truck is so comfy, reliable and cavernous without being a HUGE suv to park, if it's getting anything north of 15, i'm happy. :)

I have some pressing to-do's:

-Need to get front CV's isolated and dormant, so the joint doesn't eat itself, with a set of lock-out hubs as I've found my CV boot tear has progressed to full on CV boot breach on the outer left boot.The plan is to get some Aisin's or some Warn's and isolate them while I get my hands on a CV boot repair kit from independent 4x4.

-Need to check fluid levels on the tranny and tcase, as i honestly haven't done this since I bought it, and don't know where they stand maintenence-wise. I'm not having any symptoms but I don't want things to just go "sproing!!" on day because I procrastinated on $40.00 in fluid.
 

BigSwede

The Credible Hulk
Curious on your thoughts in how the Cherokee and Trooper compare?

Not sure if you are asking about first gen Troopers, or the 92+ 2nd gens. In either case, the Trooper is much larger inside, both taller and longer, also much heavier because it has a fully boxed ladder frame, whereas Cherokee is unibody. Cherokee has a solid front axle, which can be an advantage for slow-speed rock crawling; Trooper is IFS which is generally thought to be better on road and at higher speeds. IIRC the Cherokee 4.0L I6 is 190 hp, Trooper (2nd gen) 3.2-3.5L V6 is 175-215 depending. First gen Troopers are more like 120hp (some had the same GM 2.8L V6 as the early Cherokees). Any particular comparisons you are interested in?
 

Rosco862003

Adventurer
Yea, sorry I guess it wouldn't have hurt to be a bit more particular. I was looking more at how they compare offroad, and what some of the pro's and con's are with the Trooper. I had an old beater Cherokee that would go damn near anywhere I pointed the thing even with cruddy street tires. To be honest I attribute most of that to dumb youth and not really caring if I broke anything. So having said that I have a good idea of the pro's and con's of the Cherokee, and know what tends to be a problem (overheating with the crappy closed loop cooling system, and the infamous death wobble).I realize the physical differences to a certain degree, but was wondering how the dynamics differ. It was mentioned that the factory LSD in the Trooper is pretty effective, whereas the Cherokee LSD might as well be an open diff. I've been eyeing Trooper's for a while and have always liked the boxy utilitarian look. One thing that draws me to the Cherokee is parts availability, especially in the junkyard where they're a dime a dozen. The same can't be said with Trooper's where there are maybe 1 or 2. Do you have problems finding parts given that Isuzu has now pulled out of the states?
 

BigSwede

The Credible Hulk
The Trooper is pretty darn good off-road. My previous Trooper was a 93 short wheelbase 2-door RS model, and I wheeled the hell out of that thing. You can break the front CV axles if you are heavy on the skinny pedal, but with a little sanity they are pretty durable, and even if you break one you can replace the outer part (what usually breaks) with a $30-40 salvage yard CV in an hour or two. The rear axle has tremendous articulation, I have yet to see a SUV that can match it. I always figure if I can the the front wheels over something, the rears will follow no problem. Running gear, particularly manual trannys with the MUA5 gear driven transfer case are rugged and durable. On the minus side they are substantially heavier than a Cherokee, so in soft stuff they can sink in more easily.

If you are familiar with Moab, I have done difficult trails like Golden Spike multiple times. I made it up Rock Chucker on Metal Masher trail, and the Jeep following me with same size tires couldn't make it.
 

28.

Adventurer
Looks like a fun project.. ARB looks awesome.. Love the fact you went with a Trooper and not the typical choices mostly used for these projects.. One of the reasons I'm doing a CR-V.. I never rock crawl so I figure it should be fine for everything else as long as you're realistic about what your plans are for it.. Keep the pics coming :)
 
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