Bikepacking Catalina Island

madmax718

Explorer
I hope there is an adequate water resupply! I hiked everything you did your first day, and I went through 2 gallons of water.. it was summer though.
 

Tbars

Adventurer
Day 3 continued - Topping off a Humungous day

...The 1/3 mile down into the campgrounds was kind of an eye opener as it was pretty steep and I didn't care so with both brakes getting a workout I was still cooking down the deep, fluffy and rocky, loose trail ..:D

..But this part of the trail I am on into camp is actually the TCT hiking trail but it was the only way in and out for bikes and the 4wd road for supplies into camp...

..This TCT trail running thru camp also brought up the math thing again...For the hikers following this trail from the beginning, the 14 mile marker is in the middle of camp..

..For the bikers though following the bike trail as I did, I came up with it being about 18 miles to camp from the start of the trail..(This is just random math, not exact)..Just the 14 miles alone (TCT trail) and the 1-1/2 miles from the gate to this camp is 15-1/2 miles and it was easily another 2 plus miles out of the way on the paved road..

..For all the miles I just traveled hiking this bike up steep hills and biking as much as I could at a pretty good pace all day, I felt pretty darn good and I arrived at camp about 4 o'clock..:biggthump

..Time to find my camp site and park the bike..
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..then get to setting up camp..
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..then I got to venturing around the campgrounds with the various mining implements and noticed the diverse plants in this area and there were even palm trees, eucalyptus trees mixed with the pine trees up here..
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..This collection is just behind where my tent is located..
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Time to visit

..After being here for about an hour and a half and I now had found a comfortable spot on my table, the camp started to come to life..Since I had arrived there were 3 tents in the whole campground with nobody around...

..These tents belonged to hikers which though separate in groups, where now coming into camp from different directions as it was still sunny out it wouldn't take long for the sun to disappear up here in this large ravine..

..After a little bit the couple camping nearest to my site and I started conversing...They had all the latest ultra lite camping gear so I figured they had an extreme adventure of their own going on and when I found out they had arrived to camp the day before, I had to get some more information about the trails they took and their conditions as well as the weather here at camp..

..They told me the night before was windy and close to low 40's as far as they could tell and with the wind blowing all night long at this altitude. it was a bit uncomfortable for them...

..They proceeded to tell me they had taken a ride over to the Island the day before on the girl's, fathers boat and the guy had gotten sea sick all the way..When they described what time they arrived on the Island I couldn't figure out how they made it to camp so fast..

..It turns out the girls Uncle lives on the Island and actually drove them all the way to the campground gate...They only hiked the mile and a half in...

..But wait...There's more...

..They didn't even bring their gear in with them...It was shuttled up here earlier and left in a locker for them when they arrived...They also had a Smores and firewood package waiting for them in the lockers..:******:..I never heard of such a camping trip..lol

..I mean I was shocked and could not believe someone would miss out on the experience I just went thru today..

..And then it happened..

..The couple and I are deep into conversation and noticed the guy's eyes widen with a sense of panic like someone was running up behind me with a knife and with fear on his face he quickly stopped in mid sentence and became speechless...:eek:

..I turned around and it was buffalo moving thru camp...They were not walking but literally moving anything in their way thru camp and they were within about 50 feet or so from us..It appears the first few head were being pushed on thru by the following herd..

..Luckily, I had my camera in my coat pocket so I started snapping some pictures as it's not often you get to say you were with a herd of Buffalo at any given time..:D

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..And I shot some video..Not the best but it is actually two video's combined as one as we not only had a herd of over 40 Buffalo come thru (one of the campers lost count at 42), we had a second and even larger heard follow the first herd up thru camp about 20 minutes or so later which is also caught on this tape..


..In that video you will hear me talking and say to a lady who is approaching to close, "He's watching you and he may charge" and then the filming stops on the first clip..This was to a gal who thought she could get a closer picture..

..Here is the next shot of that Buffalo heading over to give her a better picture..:D
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..and this bull was the last to come thru..He was huge as he made the others look half his size and it appeared he had his own sidekick..
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..as soon as they had passed thru everyone was energetic in swapping stories of their vantage points and talking about how we all expected to see some Buffalo on the Island somewhere but never expected to see them so up close nor to see such a magnificent herd travel thru our campgrounds..

..Within about 20 minutes or so of the herd passing thru, the wind and the marine layer made it's way into camp and blocked our view over the pine trees of the tower on the summit just above camp..
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..With the weather moving in it was time to crawl in the sack and get to listening to the weatherband...With an 85* today and watching this weather change rapidly this early evening, although tomorrow will be less miles it can be a miserably long day as...

...The weather is now calling for rain and wind tomorrow..
 

Tbars

Adventurer
Day 4 - From the Mountain to the other side of the Islands beach

..Considering yesterday was a long and physically demanding day, I was impressed with how well I did and how I felt afterward as I was pleasantly surprised I wasn't sore at all or really tired from the climb..

..Although the thought occurred to me that the Buffalo could come thru camp in the middle and trip over my tent as the Deer had done earlier this week, I had no problem sleeping at all that night..

..Without a definite plan yet on what trail I was going to take to get to today's destination (as I had a couple choices), this decision would be left up to the last possible minute due to not knowing how I was going to feel physically after the first day's climb and now the impending weather..

..When I woke up I could tell we had gotten some light rain overnight...It was a bit dark and gloomy while I listened to the last minute updates on the weather station..The current weather was very unstable and it appeared if we were going to get rain it could be measurable..

Plan A

.This was my first choice...I would take the Cape Canyon rd. right outside of camp and head down to Middle Ranch then down toward Ben Weston beach then across the coast range foothills to my destination of Little Harbor..

..This would be a more physical route and further in distance but also would offer more rugged terrain and the scenery to match..

..With possible rain though my thoughts were, this could turn into a nasty snot mud and rock trail where I might hate myself for even attempting this route with knowing the rain would be coming in and possibly hard...

Plan B

..The quicker more direct route (and the easier route)..

..This would be to head back 1.5 miles to airport road, then another 2-1/4 miles to the airport (3.75 miles)..From there I would take Escondido Rancho Rd. down to El Rancho Escondido then straight downhill for about 5 miles total (from airport) to the coast with a short jont of about 1.5 miles over to Little Harbor on the road..

..With the thoughts of possible rain, this route would be quicker and with the thought of spending a good part of the day drenched (and knowing the next day was going to start off with a 5 mile hill climb), I could load up on a good hot meal at the airport...This trip I was loaded up with protein bars only for a cold camp, hot protein as in a large grilled Buffalo patty and some carbs sounded like a proper plan for the trip.

...As I left the camp grounds and got to the crossroads, my decision got made so on to the airport it was..I wasn't to particularly fond of backtracking but the possible alternative could prove to be worse..

Hiker's Note:..There is a direct shortcut for hiker's over to the airport which heads out of the camp, straight down and back up a steep ravine..Some elect to avoid this route and go around on the airport road..

The safer and easier route?

..So off I was, back on my journey with thoughts of getting to my next campground as soon as possible while also thinking this would turn into a pretty boring route as it would be to simple and easy being a graded road and pretty much all down hill..This would soon change..:D

..Not long after I was back on Airport Rd., I snapped this shot using my long zoom...This is Cottonwood Harbor and is where I would be going passed on my way over to my campsite destination...
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..Enjoying the easy ride over to the Airport and really enjoying the scenery, my thoughts were on what I was going to order for breakfast when I came across the cattle guard near the airport..Just as I approached to the gate on the right side of the guard, I noticed a Buffalo Bull approaching the left side of the cattle guard...

...I had heard by several people over the past few days how they had only saw 1 lone Buffalo their whole trip (and previous trips) and it was at the Airport..I was feeling pretty happy about seeing the large number of Buffalo the night before and how close we were to them..

...Since I was so close to this Bull I figured I would snap a quick picture and wait for him to head down the fence line before I went thru the gate...Since it now looked like the rain clouds were not as dark and possibly breaking up, I had plenty of time to soak in my surroundings..
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...I was putting my camera back when the Bull gave a deep snort at the ground and a hard look at the cattle guard...I thought to myself that I was far enough away but I should back up just so he didn't feel threatened..

..I was in a natural "Squeeze" with high walls on both sides of me on my side of the cattle guard..While I was backing up I kept an eye on him and to my surprise he gave another snort at the ground while putting one hoof on the first rail of the cattle guard..:eek:

..My first thought was he wouldn't try to come across the cattle guard as he hasn't been provoked so if I keep backing up slowly I should be fine but I did take a better evaluation of my immediate surroundings and planned my escape route just in case...

..The next thing I knew and to my surprise, he had crossed over the cattle guard and was headed toward me..With him and I within this natural squeeze, my boring ride quickly had some new excitement and one of us needed to move aside for the other...
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..This is where my trusty bike and I temporarily parted company while I got the shot from above on the ledge..:D
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...Hoping this was a lone Buffalo and I wasn't riding into the middle of the herd we had saw last night, I proceeded onto the Airport and got back to enjoying the scenery along the way..

(stupid camera)
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..and I quickly arrived at the gate to the Airport..
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..and on up the hill a little bit I was soon at the Hangar..
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..and over to the DC-3 Grill..This is also the main tour bus, shuttle stop/transfer between Avalon and Two Harbors as well as the Flight Office located up stairs above the DC-3 Grill..
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..I also ran into the Conservancy Ranger getting a fresh cup of coffee while making his rounds thru the Interior..
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..I caught him on his way out and he smiled and said, "I see you made it"..It was quickly confirmed he was the Ranger I spotted the day earlier and just before I squeezed my bike thru the small gate opening..

..He was happy to take a few minutes and share with me the current local conditions ahead and I mentioned that one of their Bulls and I had just crossed paths and he walked across the cattle guard and was heading off in the other direction..

..He let me in on the fact that they had actually added rails into the cattle guard so the Buffalo could cross and that the guard was actually more of a wild boar guard...This particular Bull hangs out on both sides of the cattle guard and that's his territory..(I would later find out from another Ranger that this Bull's thing is to wait at the cattle guard for tourist buses and other unsuspecting travelers to come by..That's his thing)

..After talking to the Ranger I made it inside for an awesome breakfast that was worth every bit of it's price..I also got to do some tourist shopping as they have a nice little gift store inside this huge, rustic cabin type lounge area including a rock fireplace with swing out pot and all the tools to cook in the fireplace..There is also a large deck where you could eat outside too..

Planning ahead

..Thinking I need to also start figuring out my camping and trip plans for the next couple of days (None at this time), as well as getting a real time weather report and forecast, after breakfast I headed upstairs to the flight office (tower) as this is also a place to find out the schedules of not only the buses, but the boats as well as being able to make reservations for them and the local campgrounds too..

..After they made some phone calls down to Two Harbors and realizing this was right during the change of summer season to winter season, it was determined I could catch a boat from Two Harbors over to Avalon [MENTION=234733]10[/MENTION]:30 a.m. any morning..

..This would be perfect and would let me stay all the way out at Parson's landing the next night and not the local Two Harbor's campground..Nice place but I still wanted more of a rural adventure rather than being basically in town..So this would help me plan my route while riding down to tonight's campground where I could make my decision's this evening..

..Thanking them for all the information and help, I was back on my bike and headed out of the Airport, thru the next gate into the Interior, and onto the dirt trail headed to camp..
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..It's all downhill from here..
 

Tbars

Adventurer
Day 4 continued - El Rancho Escondido

..I was now headed pretty much straight downhill with a distance of about 5 miles to the windward coast with my next stop being El Rancho Escondido located about 3 miles down the road..

...So far on this trip I pushed my bike up some steep hills where hikers would feel kind of sorry for me but when I got to the top it was all downhill and I quickly made up time...

..On this particular wide open dirt road (trail), I was going so fast that thoughts that I should be wearing elbow and knee pad's as well as a chest protector and how sharp the rocks would be upon impact were now entering my head as the bike was bucking the rear tire as I forced myself back onto the seat and checking up on the brakes when I felt the need...

..This was the longest unobstructed downhill run I can personally remember in a long time and the scenery was awesome as I flew down the steep grade with the wind blasting across my face with glimpse's of the coast in sight and gaining nearer...

..I was having a blast and enjoying every second then all of a sudden without warning somewhere between the Airport and El Rancho Escondido, my rear tire locks up and the bike is now in full skid while digging a trough in the loose soil and rocks...After what seems like a 100 feet or more I came to a controlled stop and jumped off the bike..

..My first thoughts were that somehow the rear brakes locked up from the amount I was using them or a rock got caught in the spokes..I kept looking closely at the bike for this kind of problem but couldn't find anything..With the panniers, I had to keep looking around them to try and resolve the issue..

..It was after I stepped away from the bike that it became apparent..

..I had lost both bolts holding the rear rack onto the bike and when it dropped, it collapsed the rear reflective lense/light holder onto the tire into the knobby's and it locked up the rear wheel..

..This was a relief and a simple fix as when I put this set up together almost a year ago I had saved a bunch of spare bolts and put them in one of my bikes bags... After thoroughly searching all the hidden storage pouches in my bags it became clear that I put all the bolts in the rack bag for my bike..The only other duplicate bag I own for my bike and it was at home..:banghead:

..After looking over my bike for options and what I could afford to loose, it turned out I can use the bolts from one of my water bottle holders and that water bottle could fit in the rear of the panniers as it fit perfect in a rear pouch that was probably designed just for water bottles..:thumbsup:
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..A few minutes later I was headed back downhill as fast as I could travel again..:D

...The sun was now popping in and out of the clouds occasionally and I can see the Ranch and the vineyard in the near distance..It was under remodel construction and so was the road thru and around it..
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..It is so much more up close though..(Here is a link to a little bit of history of El Rancho Escondido )
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..and here is a video I found online to give you a better glimpse of what it usually has to offer it's visitors..


..It was a bit confusing at this point as to which way the road went as there was a crossroad here with no signage as the heavy equipment had been re-working these roads...I learned when all else fails on this trail, the road you need to take is the uphill one so when going pass the Ranch continue uphill...

...There you will see one of the vineyards and this particular view has been on several magazine covers..(but this is just a picture I took)..This is the first glimpse I got looking out toward Shark Harbor and Little Harbor..
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..A little further up the hill while heading off of the Ranch property it was soon clear the big downhill was over and I would have some up and down hill climbing from here and the rest of the way to camp along the coastal hills..
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..and a Panoramic zoom along the way..
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..I soon found myself with an affixation as I topped each hill, I had a better and more spectacular view of the beach I was heading..
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..But I did have to stop for a picture of this unique color change from red to dark grey in the rocks with a clump of cactus hanging over it..:D
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..and then suddenly I was under 2 miles to camp and turning onto the Isthmus Rd...
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..and looking back toward that sign up on the hill, you can see the local bike rental company actually traveling down the road I am on while heading over toward me and to the campgrounds to retrieve up a bike and a rider that couldn't continue on...
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..A look over at Shark Harbor as I passed by and was only going a few hundred feet next door to Little Harbor..
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..Then I finally arrive to the Ranger Station..
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..The gloomy weather is now clearing out and the sun is now taking hold as it's turning into a beautiful day on the beach when it dawns on me that I am way to early by a couple hours to check into my campsite..Between my downhill speed and the Ranch being under construction which meant no time visiting it's buildings and history, I may be to early if someone is in my campsite..

..This was not a problem as there were only 4 other sites taken and being the beginning of the off season and just after a rain, with the Jazz Festival going on in Avalon, this was going to be pretty much a secluded paradise..

..I've been on a few Island beaches that face the setting sun but something about this beach made it seem like you were a million miles away...I set up camp and started exploring all over the campsite, the local hills, and it's beaches...

..Words could not express how peaceful and relaxing it was and the meaning of true freedom came to mind..I came on this trip mainly to do some soul searching, test myself physically, and to have a great adventure while Exploring the remote Interior of the Island and this was not something I had planned on..

..Like a switch had been thrown I knew now, this is where I was suppose to be...

More of this part of paradise to follow..
 

Tbars

Adventurer
Day 4 continued - Camping at Little Harbor

..The first thing I needed to do was get unpacked and air out everything...Since it had rained up on the hill and I left early in the marine layer, everything was packed away wet and needed to be dried out..

..The Sun had decided to come out and it was turning into a beautiful day and it was still before noon.

..I literally had set up the tent and unpacked everything in under 5 minutes while deciding which direction I should head off to on foot first..
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..With everything dropped at my campsite, I was off like a bird dog into the surrounding area. Hiking and Exploring from the beach up thru and around the coastal hills..I totally disconnected from everything for a while..Sorry, no afternoon pictures...

.I got back to my campsite about an hour or so before the sunset, grabbed a couple of protein bars for dinner, and was now off on foot scoping out the trail I would be taking in the morning..

..I happened across a covey of Quail (eating) and it dawned on me that we had hundreds of these around home years ago but never really see them anymore when out and about..:(
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..and the wash up the trail from camp..
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..then back to camp and the beach..
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Looking at "The Whale Tail" rock formation which separates Little Harbor from Shark Harbor..
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..Note: Shark Harbor (as well as Parsons Landing) are primitive beach campsites and are favorite beaches of the Island residents. When planning your trip over here, on Sunday the locals will hit up those two beaches and have a family Barbeque Day..The rest of the time it is hit or miss if you will see anyone there.

..From the shoreline looking back at my camp (on the left behind the palms for a windbreak). Note the bivy set up just in the front right of the large palm. From there to the tent on the right was my neighbors camp..
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..I took a number of shots From atop of the Whale Tail, first looking over at Shark Harbor Beach (aka Shark Cove)
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..Then Little Harbor Cove..
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..and then Little Harbor beach and campground..Directly behind this area (center top, hills in the background) and up the big hill would be where I would be heading in the morning.
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..This is a 360 degree video I shot from atop The Whale Tail starting with the beach of Shark Harbor first, then around to the Little Harbor campground.

The zoom in at the palm trees is actually where I set up my tent for a windbreak . The zoom in at the tower at the peak of the mountain is where I spent the night before at Blackjack campgrounds with the Buffalo.

 

Funrover

Expedition Leader
Cool!! I am always interested it what others pack. I am currently planning my first trip for summer 2014
 

Tbars

Adventurer
..With the chance of inclement weather to add a bit of spice to an already unique ride and before I got thru with this trip report I headed back over to the Island for Thanksgiving..

..With a weather report the week before saying rain and low temps it sounded like a perfect opportunity to experience a more unique trip :D

..The day before I left it was now calling for 75* and sunshine so the morning I left I quickly swapped my winter gear for warmer weather gear..

..Well, that lasted for two days and at 5 in the morning with current weather reports of clear skies, it started pouring rain and continued thru most of the day..

9 a.m. leaving camp

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10 a.m. and it's getting worse on the trail..That is actually a wall of water coming down the muntainside as I was heading downhill to the road you see in front of it.

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6 p.m. and after 2 miles of paved and 12 miles of mud, I made it to camp in the pitch black of night.. :biggthump

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..I wore the brakes out using the rear tire as a rudder sliding down the hillsides and decided after that trip it was time to get a more mud friendly, offroad bike...

..After a month of shopping around I found my new to me bike that will be seeing more of the same type of trail trips this year as the other bike did..The other bike will still be on active duty just a bit less hazardous of trail duty..:D

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