optimal traction when pulling a trailer

[someday]

Last weekend, I filled my M101 army trailer with some firewood. Guessing about 1500-2000 pounds of wood, plus 1200-1500lb trailer. The truck towed it fine UNTIL I got to the place where I store my firewood. The drive way is about a 50ft long, steep and newly graveled. Even without a load I have to engage 4H because I just spin in the gravel. Well, when I tried to drive up it towing 3000 lb's 1) I bogged down and stalled in 2wd 2) I just spun and sank in 4H 3) I spun and sank in 4L crawling, BUT when I got a little running start in 4L in SECOND gear is was a rough semi-violent fun run. I did make it up, but tires where spinning, rocks/gravel were getting tossed around, there all kinds of noises (I dont know if it was seat belt chime or not), beeping, spinning, gravel hitting the truck, gravel hitting the trailer etc. It happened pretty quick.

The question is, at what point do you damage your drivetrain in 4L? Top speed, RPM's? Etc?

Though I haven't researched it much, but, I remember reading something about a yellow wire mod (I have a '09 Tacoma TRD Sport)?

Any other suggestions? Will the gravel settle in so I won't sink?

 

[elmo_4_vt]

People are often amazed by how much drag a trailer will put on a vehicle. Last year I had to use 4L and both lockers to crawl up a road that a Subie Outback made it up with a good bit of momentum (kind of like the semi-violent fun run you mentioned above). Unfortunately, I don't know any other way to make it easier on you and your truck other than adding a wider tire and lowering air pressure to maximize your footprint. Other than that, I usually try to not go above 25 or so in 4L, RPMs limits are really no different in 2wd or 4wd. Just know that speed breaks stuff. Crawling is always the best option if it will work, but sometimes you don't have much of a choice.

Don

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[/dev/m416]

That's why I like a stick... get to pick my gear in 4L based on conditions.

 

[IdaSHO]

Put the firewood in the truck.

 

[someday]

Put the firewood in the truck.

Its a short 5' bed, thats why I have the trailer.

Dev - it is a stick, and, I agree

elmo - thanks!

Thanks for the input!

 

[Glenn D]

Putting some of the firewood in the truck will add weight to the back and help a ton on not spinning the tires... traction when pulling a trailer requires having a load in the back

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

 

[shogun]

Cue the broken record;

An M-101 is way too big a trailer for off-road, obstacle strewn, rough trail use. Maybe, maybe a full-size, heavy-duty truck, but likely no better unless you have pretty large tires. Just because you can pull it doesnt mean it will work.

The best chance would be in reverse keeping a little momentum. Get rid of the loose gravel.

 

[someday]

Cue the broken record;

An M-101 is way too big a trailer for off-road, obstacle strewn, rough trail use. Maybe, maybe a full-size, heavy-duty truck, but likely no better unless you have pretty large tires. Just because you can pull it doesnt mean it will work.

The best chance would be in reverse keeping a little momentum. Get rid of the loose gravel.

Thanks Shogun you may want to turn that record up to,,, oh, lets turn it up to, 11 because I've never heard it. I researched for over a year on strong, stout FIRE WOOD haulers and M-101 is what I decided on. I am not planning on using my M-101 as an off-road, obstacle strewn rough trail trailer. If a short steep freshly graveled access drive is what you consider obstacle strewn rough trail then we are going to have to agree to disagree. Also, the weight of the trailer and load is WELL below the towing capacity to the tow vehicle. You are right, just because I can doesn't mean it will work. The OP was asking if anyone had any pointers for increased traction.

Glenn - thanks, I think next weekend that will be my plan of attack.

Thanks!

 

[Hilldweller]

Did you air-down?

The hill is steep, a layer of clay mud over frozen clay.

Video 1 is StumpXJ with a locked front, 35s, and more wheeling experience than me. Street pressure in tires.
Video 2 is me in my JK with open diffs, "brake-lock differentials", 33s aired-down.
Both automatic transmissions.

 

[highlandercj-7]

Putting some of the firewood in the truck will add weight to the back and help a ton on not spinning the tires... traction when pulling a trailer requires having a load in the back

This is probally one of the best ideas, adding the weight over the tires will help with traction pulling the trailer. The only other option is more tongue weight. Also getting a run at the hill.

 

[Mark Harley]

It is all in how you stack it.
More tongue weight is better.
Leave the large rounds off the tailgate.

 

[someday]

Mark ,those pictures are awesome. Mine was nowhere near as full as any of those. Right now mine doesn't have any sides. Next hopefully that will change.

 

[daddyusmaximus]

Do both... Air down on loose ground, AND put some in the truck.

 

[Chili]

Do both... Air down on loose ground, AND put some in the truck.

This is exactly what I was going to suggest. Airing down for the loose gravel and putting some weight in the truck for traction.

As to max (speed) limits in 4L, I would refer to your owner's manual. Most will specify a speed to not exceed when in 4L. Although I wouldn't think 2nd gear is going to exceed recommendations, unless you are winding it out.

Generally speaking, I would be comfortable up to 3rd gear as long as RPMs are kept low.

I will also add, I have found that situations where I really need 4wd, are situations where 4L works best. Slow and steady. The only exception is when driving on a dirt / gravel incline with washboard. Then I will go into 4H just to keep from hopping the rear axle.

 

[evldave]

Have you pressed the gravel or did you press it when you had it laid? All the above suggestions are great, but one that hasn't been mentioned yet. It sounds like your issue isn't your truck setup but the road - and since you own the road, I'd suggest having a contractor w/a steamroller come and press your gravel. It will help A LOT with traction (well, unless you get a lot of snow/ice in which case it will hurt your traction in the winter). Speed and bouncing and 4LO never are good in the long run unless you like breaking things

Also, there are other options - you can self-apply asphalt filler that will help hold the rocks together, or you can get a trailer full of dirt and spread that out over the rocks and water it down (helps act like a sort of cement). Honestly, if you use the road regularly, I'd focus more on the road than the driving technique - not a lot you can do if the road sucks