Vario project started
- Thread starter jostein
- Start date
thebigblue
Adventurer
....and now I concider myself owner of a camper vehicle
View attachment 401770
Got the box in place yesterday.
still a lot left to do inside of course.
We all do - congrats!
Vegard_S
Adventurer
Nice work Jostein! Is it custom made cabinets or Ikea or similar? (Only asking since I am going to use similar type of cabinets with plain white fronts n the Unimog, and currently I'm considering buying them from Ikea and just do some modification work to make them fit my build.)
jostein
Adventurer
I considered several options, but ended up buying the fronts and hinges from IKEA.
An easy and cost effective way of doing it.
I did however decide against using the entire cabinets. My reason are:
1) Measurements. I wanted different depths. I could of course cut the IKEA cabinets, but that is work to.
2) weight and ridgidity. Especially for the wall cabinets, but also for bench cabinets you can save weight and reduce the load on fastening points by making your own cabinets. When using IKEA cabinets you end up with double wall between each door, for wall cabinets you will also get a top plate and rear plate which is not needed, since the roof and wall can fill that function. For a bench cabinet the bottom and rear plate are not wanted, at least not in my case. You can also choose some stronger materials to improve ridigty.
3) Moisture. The IKEA cabinets do have some "non covered" plate edges, and the boards they use do not like moisture.
Ended up making cabinet skeleton in glulam, letting the sides facing walls or ceiling beiing open and covering only the sides need to be covered.
Skeleton:
Hope this made sense
An easy and cost effective way of doing it.
I did however decide against using the entire cabinets. My reason are:
1) Measurements. I wanted different depths. I could of course cut the IKEA cabinets, but that is work to.
2) weight and ridgidity. Especially for the wall cabinets, but also for bench cabinets you can save weight and reduce the load on fastening points by making your own cabinets. When using IKEA cabinets you end up with double wall between each door, for wall cabinets you will also get a top plate and rear plate which is not needed, since the roof and wall can fill that function. For a bench cabinet the bottom and rear plate are not wanted, at least not in my case. You can also choose some stronger materials to improve ridigty.
3) Moisture. The IKEA cabinets do have some "non covered" plate edges, and the boards they use do not like moisture.
Ended up making cabinet skeleton in glulam, letting the sides facing walls or ceiling beiing open and covering only the sides need to be covered.
Skeleton:
Hope this made sense
Vegard_S
Adventurer
Thanks Jostein, I can understand your arguments for not using the entire cabinets, guess I might "steal" your idea and go the same way as you did, and make the cabinets by myself, and then use hinges and front doors from IKEA.
Will you be adding a "push lock bottom" or similar to keep the doors from rattling around and opening during driving, or don't you think it will be needed?
BTW: Your build so far looks awsome! You will have the coolest Vario in Norway by far when it's finnished!
Will you be adding a "push lock bottom" or similar to keep the doors from rattling around and opening during driving, or don't you think it will be needed?
BTW: Your build so far looks awsome! You will have the coolest Vario in Norway by far when it's finnished!
jostein
Adventurer
Only Unimogs are cooler:-D
Regarding the top hinged cabinets I rely on the soft close mechanism in the hinge, which actually pulls the door shut with some force.
For the normal doors I will use elsewhere, I have bought this snap locks which hopefully will be good enough..:
On all cabinet shelfs, I make an edge of approx 30mm in front, so that items inside does not push directly on the door when pulling high G corners
I guess I will have to implement push button locks later if proven neccesary.
Regarding the top hinged cabinets I rely on the soft close mechanism in the hinge, which actually pulls the door shut with some force.
For the normal doors I will use elsewhere, I have bought this snap locks which hopefully will be good enough..:
On all cabinet shelfs, I make an edge of approx 30mm in front, so that items inside does not push directly on the door when pulling high G corners
I guess I will have to implement push button locks later if proven neccesary.
