Quadrotrac

98dango

Expedition Leader
The best way is a rod or tubing threw the middle to keep it true. Then weld just make sure the tubing is exactly the size of an axle.
 
Put a lot of time in it today and didn`t get much done. Wanted to set the engine position and figure out a driveline configuration. First i removed the not needed rear driveshaft output:

17116036dw.jpg


17116039oj.jpg


And started playing around with the engine:

17116051gq.jpg


Machined the front frame crossmember:

17116053pc.jpg


17116064xk.jpg


17116065gh.jpg


Then i started cutting driveshafts:

17116052jt.jpg


Something like this could work:

17116068bm.jpg


Basicly a driveshaft that connects both axles and a chain drive transfer case that drives this driveshaft... Not sure how to mate all those cv joints and ujoints together, not sure if thex hold up when welded...
 

mcneil

Observer
IUnfortunately i missed a spot while welding so i wanted to weld it up after it was turned down and turn it down again. Looks like i bent it in the other direction while welding up that small spot. So it wasn`t sucessfull and i need to redo it. Anyone have a better idea? If i weld it again it`s quite possible that i miss a spot again and the same stuff happens again. So i`m really hoping someone can give me a hint.

Were you able to measure how out of round it is? I have to admit, this is the first time I've seen an axle on a lathe.
It may not be a problem for you, a housing bent ~1mm off center will just wear bearings faster. Can you check the alignment of the bearing races? Basically, find a rod that's longer than the axle and straight within a few thousandths, then make two aluminum pieces that hold the rod centered on the outer axle bearing races. Put the rod through, and measure how far off the carrier bearing races are from the rod.

Basically, you'd be making a home-brew version of this
 
I didn't measure it, but i guess it's about 7-10mm out at the housing.

The axle came out of a running car and did it's job great. I've seen axles bent as much that you could see it with your bare eye running several thousands of kilometers without any issues.
I think most of the axles are bent but no one notices it because they don't chuck it in a lathe.
 
Decided to ditch the chain drive, and welded shaft and go with a LJ80 trandfer case instead. Also clocked the engine and going to install it sideways, using the rear axle output to power the transfer case. In order to do this i put the rear axle output back on that i removed yesterday :

17125036sc.jpg


But i don`t need the vacuum 4WD actuator, because it will always be engaged, so i cut of the unnecessary stuff:

17125079wq.jpg


That`s the transfer case:

17124217zr.jpg


This gives me a nice and clean drivetrain, lots of room in the rear car and a lot better speed range. Really happy about that...
 

chnlisle

Adventurer
I was stationed in Boeblingen in 1968 before going to Vietnam. Panzer kaserne. I'm sure it doesn't
Look anything like I remember it. Keep up you great fabricating, we all enjoy your
Posts.
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
you do know that axles are going to have a slight bend in them from the factory so when they have weight on them, they are straight. so you can' chuck one in a lathe.

looks like you are going over board again and its going to weigh more then the other one
 
Looked like this when i came home from work today:

17207309yv.jpg


There was my Suzuki transfercase in one of those packages. I thought it`s way to big judging by the size of the package, but it was just packed really good. Unfortunately the oil was left in it and now it was everywhere in the package. So i first cleaned it:

17207308fd.jpg


Then i started machining the driveshaft between the transmission and the transfer case:

17207320tv.jpg


17207328te.jpg


And set the engine position:

17207338qw.jpg


17207340hw.jpg


Would like to put the transfercase further back, but i`m not sure how to connect it to the rear axle yet. I`m thinking either a single u-joint or a Hardy disc.

17207341fe.jpg
 
Started by turning down the weld on a Samurai u-joint:

17216175lo.jpg


Then i started machining a flange for the transfer case:

17216187yw.jpg


While the saw was working i started cutting the first two pieces of steel für the bodywork. Planning just a rectangular box, but i`d like to see some better designs...

17216190hu.jpg


Then i machined the flange:

17216192wk.jpg


17216204bz.jpg


Tacked it on:

17216203rv.jpg


Everything where it`s supposed to. I like how far i could put the transfercase back. Can probably even use the brake drum :

17216206zy.jpg


17216207ou.jpg
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
I love the way you start your thread by saying `I dont know if I will do this´ and then by the end of your post you have allready fabricated something that works. I believe you think to fast Steinez! Wicked work!:)
 
Thanks.

Did some shopping today:

17261549zz.jpg


I decided to go with a receiver tube on the back end. So i milled a window in the rear crossmember:

17261536fa.jpg


Drilled the receiver tube:

17261545sw.jpg


And welded it in:

17261546mp.jpg


17261548cv.jpg


Also made the engine crossmember and lower engine mount:

17261554ri.jpg


17261557vt.jpg


17261560ph.jpg
 
Started with the rear body frame uprights:

17272134fk.jpg


Mounted the engine mount to it:

17272142lp.jpg


Transmission mount:

17272138ba.jpg


Started building the other shaft:

17272143tv.jpg


17272153yg.jpg


Need to clock the transfercase to get a better angle on the shaft.

This is a mockup for the body. Also ordered an exhaust and radiator:

17272154qh.jpg
 

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