88 Automatic Hub ???

[uncle]

I just trailered home my new-to-me 88 Suburban. I have a lot of work ahead of me but I am curious about the automatic hubs.
Should I keep them or go manual?
This will be my DD, hunting and fishing rig. No major rock crawling ( I do love to watch these machines).

Brian

 

[Larry]

Throw them away and get manual locking hubs. I prefer Superwinch hubs. They're priced right, durable and only 1/4 turn from lock to unlock.

 

[Rovertrader]

Throw them away and get manual locking hubs. I prefer Superwinch hubs. They're priced right, durable and only 1/4 turn from lock to unlock.

X2, but I'm a Warn guy- honestly out of habit. I hear the Mile Markers are decent too...

 

[Rot Box]

I hear the Mile Markers are decent too...

There's two things in this world I hate. My old Mile Marker hubs--both of them :Wow1: lol :snorkel:

 

[Larry]

There's two things in this world I hate. My old Mile Marker hubs--both of them :Wow1: lol :snorkel:

I hear that. Not a fan of MM or WARN. Both piss me off when you must reach around the wheel to spin the axle shaft just a tad to get them to fully lock or unlock. Just don't have that problem with Superwinch hubs.

 

[Rovertrader]

So much for hear say...

 

[4x4junkie]

I hear that. Not a fan of MM or WARN. Both piss me off when you must reach around the wheel to spin the axle shaft just a tad to get them to fully lock or unlock. Just don't have that problem with Superwinch hubs.

Reversing direction for a foot or so should pop them free (that happens when there's a little bit of bind preventing the engagement collar from slipping out).

Agreed on the above posts, manual hubs regardless of brand are the way to go. Those mechanical auto hubs aren't real reliable and can cause problems if you're mired in mud somewhere and have to rock the vehicle back & forth to get it out.

 

[Haakon]

If it ain't broke why fix it? I've had auto locking hubs on 5 GMs starting with a 1985 S-15 Jimmy through a 2000 Suburban and never had a problem with the hubs on any of them, neither has my uncle who has been buying Suburbans ever 2 or 3 years (used car people love him) for over 30 years.

I'm sure there are people who have had problems, anything mechanical can break, but there are also some people who could break an anvil.

 

[bigtrkltltrl]

I was in Moab a little wail back and was having issues with the auto hubs(240k miles). I got home and installed a set of warn hubs. It all seemed good after about 1000 miles I started to hear a clicking noise when the hubs are engaged with or with out it in 4wd. Not sure if it is a installation error or a defect in the hubs. I have checked all the u joints on the axle shafts and drive line. Nothing loose or need of attention. Still trying to track down the issue. I like the manual hubs except in the winter when I have to get out in the snow to lock them in. But the manual hubs are a lot stronger. Go manual hubs if you are unsure if they have issues. But replace all bearings and axle shaft u joints when you swap.


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[uncle]

Thanks for all the ideas. It's not the first thing on my list but I'll keep all this in mind.

Brian

 

[Larry]

Reversing direction for a foot or so should pop them free (that happens when there's a little bit of bind preventing the engagement collar from slipping out).

Agreed on the above posts, manual hubs regardless of brand are the way to go. Those mechanical auto hubs aren't real reliable and can cause problems if you're mired in mud somewhere and have to rock the vehicle back & forth to get it out.

Not even a good solid foot kick from Bruce Lee is going to lock or unlock a WARN or MM when the dial won’t fully turn or unlock. The only way is to spin the shaft a little bit. On the other hand, the old Spicer hubs required a swift kick as standard procedure. I forgot them as another hub on my dislike list.

If it ain't broke why fix it? I've had auto locking hubs on 5 GMs starting with a 1985 S-15 Jimmy through a 2000 Suburban and never had a problem with the hubs on any of them, neither has my uncle who has been buying Suburbans ever 2 or 3 years (used car people love him) for over 30 years.

I'm sure there are people who have had problems, anything mechanical can break, but there are also some people who could break an anvil.

You realize the two examples you provided do not even have the same type hubs as the topic of discussion here right? The S-series trucks and later model (1992 and later) Suburban’s with IFS use a front axle disconnect which is not even remotely close to automatic or manual locking hubs. Auto-locking hubs are unreliable junk and have a special place in the garbage can just for them. Notice you never hear of people throwing away their manual locking hub and installing auto lockers? :coffeedrink:

I was in Moab a little wail back and was having issues with the auto hubs(240k miles). I got home and installed a set of warn hubs. It all seemed good after about 1000 miles I started to hear a clicking noise when the hubs are engaged with or with out it in 4wd. Not sure if it is a installation error or a defect in the hubs. I have checked all the u joints on the axle shafts and drive line. Nothing loose or need of attention. Still trying to track down the issue. I like the manual hubs except in the winter when I have to get out in the snow to lock them in. But the manual hubs are a lot stronger. Go manual hubs if you are unsure if they have issues. But replace all bearings and axle shaft u joints when you swap.


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Could be an install error but a click noise like that can also be a dry u-joint on one of the front axle shaft ends or front drive shaft.

 

[bigtrkltltrl]

Thanks Larry. I will look into the install issue and the u-joint greasing. I have been a little damaged from work for the past 4 months and another three now after surgery. But I was hoping it was not my install error but I have been known to make a few mistakes once in a while.


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[rxinhed]

If it ain't broke why fix it? I've had auto locking hubs on 5 GMs starting with a 1985 S-15 Jimmy through a 2000 Suburban and never had a problem with the hubs on any of them, neither has my uncle who has been buying Suburbans ever 2 or 3 years (used car people love him) for over 30 years.

Really?

The '82+ S-10/S-15 didn't have hubs. Everything was operated via a CAD axle. These vehicles were IFS with CVs and no hubs.

The Suburbans beginning with the '93 model were also IFS, no operable hubs, CVs, and all that.

The last external hub on a GM vehicles was the '91 Suburban square body.

 

[4x4junkie]

Not even a good solid foot kick from Bruce Lee is going to lock or unlock a WARN or MM when the dial won’t fully turn or unlock. The only way is to spin the shaft a little bit. On the other hand, the old Spicer hubs required a swift kick as standard procedure. I forgot them as another hub on my dislike list.

Ahh, you're speaking of the older-design hubs that didn't have a spring action inside them allowing the dial to turn in spite of being bound up. Yeah, the old '74 F-250 my dad had had the Spicer hubs on it, it definitely required a bit of a song & dance before they'd let go lol (the t-case shifter too).

Current Warn hubs (not sure about MM) you can turn the dials on them no matter how much bind is on them. As soon as you start moving again (releasing the bind), they'll pop in or out on their own.

The Suburbans beginning with the '93 model were also IFS, no operable hubs, CVs, and all that.

The last external hub on a GM vehicles was the '92 Suburban square body.

'91 was the last square-body year

 

[rxinhed]

'91 was the last square-body year

Correction noted and made. Thank you.