Leaf spring replacement for M416

I'm having a bit of a conundrum trying to figure out about replacing my M416 leaf springs. I don't know how to go about sourcing new ones.They are flattening out with all the weight I've put on the trailer. Both the trailer and I are almost 50 years old. I realize this is a bit backwards but the build is mostly finished and I can't deconstruct her. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Tanks.
 

shogun

Adventurer
1st choice would be a local spring shop that can easily make a new set. Advantage being, you can specify spring rate and load if you want to deviate from stock.

2nd choice would be search mil surplus shops. Saturn surplus used to have NOS springs for cheap.
 

FredB

Observer
Is it still spring under? Lots of cheap overload kits for spring under solid axles. I'd just measure the spring width and hit the junk yards and try adding to the pack. It must really be loaded because even at max load I don't see my stock spring packs flattening out.
 
My passenger side is worse than my drivers side which gives the trailer a slight lean to one side. There are no junkyards around here either at least none I know of. It's spring over right now too. I think...brain fartigue...
 
I ended up taking the m416 to a place called Jim Campen Trailers, in south Asheville/Hendersonville, and they were very helpful and removed the old ones and installed the new springs for me. Myself not having air tools would have been quickly and easily frustrated in attempting to do the work myself. They did it in 2.25 hours and it only cost me $146.00. It would have taken me all day to do with my limited tools and knowledge? Now i know how to do it as I watched and helped their guy fix it.

BIG NOTE: On the right/passengers side rear lower shackle bolt, it loosens RIGHTY-LOOSEY.
On the left/drivers side the rear lower shackle bolt, it loosens LEFTY-LOOSEY.
I was able to utilize all the original parts minus the new brass bushings and of course new springs. On the right side on the inside of the shackle bolt there is a grease fitting (?) washer that was partially fried, but since they had nothing to replace it with we just put it back and I'll replace it later when I get the part. It's been running without much grease for god knows how long anyway and it's not like its a spinning piece that gets lots of friction. I'll address it soon though.

They also happened to have on hand a spinning pintle hitch for only $85!!!:) a total steal, which I then drilled a hole in my raised hitch mount after having removed the static one and bolted in the new one. Awesome!
 
I ended up taking the m416 to a place called Jim Campen Trailers, in south Asheville/Hendersonville, and they were very helpful and removed the old ones and installed the new springs for me. Myself not having air tools would have been quickly and easily frustrated in attempting to do the work myself. They did it in 2.25 hours and it only cost me $146.00. It would have taken me all day to do with my limited tools and knowledge? Now i know how to do it as I watched and helped their guy fix it.
With the limited amount of info I was able to glean from the Internet, I did read that you are supposed to press the brass bushing into the leaf spring hole. Well the mechanic just used a 3lb sledge hammer and a hex bolt and hammered it in. No press involved.

1st NOTE: the smaller hole with the brass bushing goes up front. The larger hole on the leaf spring goes to the rear

BIG NOTE: On the right/passengers side rear lower shackle bolt, it loosens RIGHTY-LOOSEY.
On the left/drivers side the rear lower shackle bolt, it loosens LEFTY-LOOSEY.

Make sure you GREASY GREASY when finished.

I was able to utilize all the original parts minus the new brass bushings and of course new springs. On the right side on the inside of the shackle bolt there is a grease fitting (?) washer that was partially fried, but since they had nothing to replace it with we just put it back and I'll replace it later when I get the part. It's been running without much grease for god knows how long anyway and it's not like its a spinning piece that gets lots of friction. I'll address it soon though.

They also happened to have on hand a spinning pintle hitch for only $85!!!:) a total steal, which I then drilled a hole in my raised hitch mount after having removed the static one and bolted in the new one. Awesome!
 

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Kiddmen57

Supporting Sponsor
Did they give you any info on the new springs? I've had mine full to the brim with top soil (2000lb +) and was still an inch from the bum stops, but I too would like a slightly heavier spring. My concern is how thin and weak looking the eye leaf looks. These look beefier.
 
I am curious as to why the 1941-53 10 leafs fit the trailer as opposed to the 1955-75, because the trailer is a 1966. The later ones actually seem to have more of a definitive U shape the the 41-53's. maybe it's the length. The ones I got are 36" long. I guess the guy I ordered from just knew what I needed more than me. Now I need to replace the shocks, any recommendations?
 

Workhorse

Observer
100acre,

I went with the Napa stock replacements for $30 each. I haven't had it out on the road but I believe that I replaced the very original shocks when I did my trailer refurb. It trailed wonderfully before, my guess is it will be at least the same or better. You can see them (sort of ) the attached photo of the undercarriage of my M100.
IMAG0159.jpg
 

Mundo4x4Casa

West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
This has been a good discussion on how to bring a 50 to 70 year old suspension back to life. Having owned a '42 M-100, a '67 M-416, and a '68 Con Fer Toyota jeep trailer, and building my own jeep trailer in 1965 I have a different perspective on jeep trailer suspensions. 1. The militaries are way over-built, especially the WWII's, so very heavy for their size. 2. More or less, the best upgrade is a SOA and some decent jeep wheels. 3. Most of the ones I see now have been loved to death by multiple rebuilds with tail gates and lots of geegaws to make them more trail-worthy. 4. There is such a cult following on these M's that the price has skyrocketed in the last decade, much of that due to the dwindling supply of solid units. They are dying off, just like our WWII vets.

On my '68 Con Fer, which was all metal, same 6 lug and track as an FJ40, water proof with locking lids, and 4 gas can holders on the sides, the problem was they used standard-at-the-time 2-leaf, stiff trailer springs. They had absolutely no give even when loaded. So, as luck would have it, the main leaf on one side decided to go into two pieces in the middle of the Vizciano Desert in central/west Baja.

We put the de-axled trailer with tongue on the roof and rear end on the Tomba Burro and drove with the doors open 150 miles back to Guererro Negro for repairs. When I got home I searched for some softer springs with the same eye-to-eye distance and installed some shocks. I found some used car springs that had enough spring rate but were very pliable and smooth riding. That was the ticket.
A couple years ago, a neighbor was moving to town and had no room to store her 1955 Bradley trailer. Bradley? Sears and Roebuck sold these little gems during that time with thousands made and sold.


They are very well made with a truss rodded tongue, 5 on 5.5" wheels, funky little half-fenders and the exact same track as a Jeep Grand Cherokee and a not-so-grand Cherokee.

They have stake pockets and a double thickness floor of diamond plate steel, and a bomb proof tail gate with metal hooks and chains to secure the gate, just like a '55 Ford P.U.. My specimen, little Blue Bradley is in very good shape with all that lead based paint to protect its epidermis. It comes already SOA. After repacking the wheel bearings, and building lightweight stake sides for Bradley, I have run the wheels off this thing. This year I installed a pintel arrangement (8 ton pintel/16 ton lunette, non-pivoting) and it was dragged over the Mojave Road for the second time with no structural dilapidation.


The springs are pretty stiff with a high spring rate and they look like 1/2 ton pick up springs. The best thing about the Bradley besides the $100 pricetag, is it's light weight. just over 300 pounds. When empty, you really do not know it is back there. The Bantam M-100 weighed in at almost 600 pounds! A big difference in unloaded pull ability. The only reason I posted all this is to expand your horizon on what is out there ready to be re-built into the ultimate off-road, Expo trailer and what the woes are on our historic elder trailers. If this is deemed a highjack, so be it.
regards, as always, jefe
 
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