Best way to connect body to frame

Geodoc

Adventurer
I'm about to start my build using 2x2x.120 for the frame (it'll be small and lightweight - about 4x6 and maybe 3' tall box, designed to be towed by a Subaru or Cherokee). Any suggestions for the best way to connect the box to the frame? I'm thinking of welding bolts to the frame as I don't want to drill into/through the frame.
 

java

Expedition Leader
What type of body? I have no problems drilling holes in the frame. Its done all the time. You could weld on tabs and though bolt also.
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
If it's for a lightweight trailer, could you use channel instead of square tubing? Then it would be easy to drill through the top of the channel and put a nut underneath.

Harbor Freight type trailers are made of C-channel (about 1/8" thick) and are fairly strong; if you found some 3/16" thick channel (.188) that should work for you.
 

skersfan

Supporting Sponsor
Are you mounting a wooden box on the steel frame, or a metal box.

You could drill through the frame, insert a pipe through the frame, weld around it if your concern is rust and access to the inner frame. Or as Mark stated make tabs on the side and attach at that point. In honesty drilling through the frame is not a problem. The things most people build on here will last far past our life times even submerged in water. Use your common sense on your plan, you will be fine.
 

Geodoc

Adventurer
It will be a fiberglassed over wood box.

I like the tabs idea - any suggestions on where to get them, or is that something I'll have to fab?

I hadn't thought of the drilling/pipe through frame option. Sounds interesting.
 

skersfan

Supporting Sponsor
A piece of 3/16 or 1/4 x 2 inch angle will work for the tabs, drill your hole, round the corners and weld to the side of the frame. Will look clean and be very strong. On the outside of the frame will make it easier if it ever has to be removed for repairs. I would be sure to run some hard rubber along the top of the frame, due to twist and all to keep from fracturing the fiberglass seal on the bottom. Or take a look at Wavebreakers thread. I think he is doing something similar.
 

skersfan

Supporting Sponsor
The main problem drilling through the frame is the fact that the bolt or nut will end up on the bottom of the frame. Dragging it across rocks and such will/could cause problems down the trail. I would stick to the brackets and keep the attachment points out of danger now that I think about it.
 

java

Expedition Leader
Everett steel carries lots of tabs in stock. They are cheap.

Not sure where in WA you are, but way easier than drilling and cutting your own tabs.
 

Geodoc

Adventurer
Thanks all. Looks like the tabs are the way to go. I'm closer to Tacoma than Everett java. Maybe I can check with Tacoma Steel (Six Roblees in Tacoma was uncertain where to go).
 

skersfan

Supporting Sponsor
So you have to buy 30-50 to get them at a 1.35 each. Enough for 10 trailers I would guess. 2x2 angle 20 bucks for 20 foot or close to. Plus the angle iron ones would be considerably stronger I think. Three straight sides to weld to, open at the top so it is flat or ground down and then 4 sides welded.

I sometimes buy triangles from my welding shop, 1/4 inch and they run a dollar for a 3 inch one. I sometimes use them in corners on the uprights. I like angle because you can make it the length you want and drill more than one hole into to bridge an area.

I do have a drill press and chop saw so that makes buying them seem silly. I guess some may not have these tools, so buying would make sense.
 

Geodoc

Adventurer
The choices, the choices....:Wow1: Since I'll be near Tacoma tomorrow setting up a booth at fairgrounds (selling Simple Showers at the Mother Earth News fair over the weekend) I'll swing by some local metal shops and see what they've got. I like the idea of the extra strength from using angle iron. I'll let y'all know what I decide next week.
 

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