Rear carrier removal questions 99 montero

[billygoats]

Initially this post was to get some additional information on how to remove the rear 3rd member.

It has since turned into a documentation thread of troubleshooting my factory rear air locker that stopped working, the upgrade to 4.636 gears from a 94-96 SR, an Aussie front locker, and Manual locking front hubs.




I'm removing my rear diff to check out why the factory locker is not engaging, and to reinstall the locker detection switch I removed while trying to diagnose (must pull diff to reinstall).

I've unbolted the driveshaft, air line, locker detection switch, 4 bolts each side holding the axle in, and the 12 carrier bolts. The carrier is stuck on the axle real good. Not sure if it's factory, but there is gray sealant between the two surfaces. The two halves do not want to separate. Additionally I'm hoping I can just pull the axles out slightly while leaving all the accessories in. The brake hard line has about 2" I can pull on each side. Is that enough for the axles to disengage from the diff? Or do I have to disconnect the brake lines and pull the axles out significantly more? Thanks in advance!

 

[Toasty]

If it's the factory seal you'll need some brute force to break it free, don't worry you can't hurt that thing. I use a really big dead blow, just be careful of the studs and mating surfaces if you choose to use a real sledge. I recommend something a bit softer that still packs a punch because it is really on there.

 

[billygoats]

Awesome. Thanks for the info. Also. Do you think I have the axles out enough to pull the carrier? Or do I have to disconnect the brake lines and pull it out more?

 

[Toasty]

you should be able to feel it, but i let mine hang like that during diff removal.

 

[billygoats]

Well got it out. Each axle has to be out about 4". Still able to be done with the brakes connected.

Locker is toast. All the "castle" tops on the diaphragm side are sheared off. Don't know where all the bits went! I think I must have activated the locker under wheel spin.

For ease, I'm gonna just get the 4.63 out of 94-96 so I don't have to deal with removing ring and pinions as I would have to with the 4.90. It is very hard to find someone parting a 1999 montero sport limited 4x4 with locker option. I've given up on that!

Gonna order an Aussie locker for the front. Only 300 shipped from http://www.lokka.com/site

Hopefully I'll have luck at the junkyard on Monday!

 

[Justice R]

Wow, that's pretty rough. Make sure you keep the diafragm from your old locker just in case you need it in the future.

 

[Toasty]

yeah, the only way they break the teeth off is engaging with high wheel speed. Keep it under 10 (or whatever the manual recommends) I idle in motion until the light solidifies.

 

[billygoats]

Working in removing the front diff today. So far it is much more time consuming and tedious than the rear! Any pointers for a novice? Shortcuts? Tricks of the trade?

 

[billygoats]

Successful day at the junkyard! Got rear third and front diff from a 94 SR. 4.636 gearing.
Got the rear in easy. Waiting on the Aussie locker to arrive from Australia before I can install the front. In cleaning out the rear carrier housing, I located all the sheared teeth from the diaphragm side of my original locker. Looks like every tooth was sheared off. New rear was tested on the car and locks up just great!

Donor montero!

DO NOT EVER REMOVE THE REAR LOCKER DETECTION SWITCH UNLESS YOU WANT TO REMOVE THE THIRD MEMBER TO REINSTALL IT!!!

I took a crummy picture to explain why. The switch will unscrew and pull out fairly easily. But if you try to just screw it in, it will not hook around the diaphragm plate. Your dash light will not ever illuminate solid. To reinstall with the third off the car you need to use a screwdriver to guide the switch around the diaphragm plate.

The tip of the switch is shaped like a mushroom. It must hook around the plate. When the locker is activated, the plate pulls the switch out.

Come to think of it, I may have sheared off all the locker teeth by reinstalling the switch while on the car and firing the diaphragm plate into the other side just slightly, causing a lot of torque on just the tips of each tooth. This might have caused. Them to all shear off.

Cleaned out all the broken teeth that ended up on the bottom of the axle housing!

 

[billygoats]

If anyone wants my stock air locked 4.27 third, it's yours for $10. That's how much I'd get back on core. You WILL have to replace the diaphragm side of the locker since I sheared the teeth off it. Cheaper than having to buy a whole air locked third from the junkyard. Maybe the damaged part is even avail new! Comes with detection switch.

 

[eurosonic]

Im curious on how that LOKKA locker will workout.

 

[billygoats]

I'll post back with results

 

[billygoats]

The front Lokka came today! Seriously fast shipping from Australia! 4 days from day of order til in my hands! Won't be able to install til next week due to scheduling.

 

[eurosonic]

I want this


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[billygoats]

Some progress tonight! Working at an extremely leisurely pace....constantly getting distracted, I've managed to get the front diff apart and the lokka inside the casing. Taking a break before installing the diff into the housing.

Stock with the bearing caps removed.

Ring gear off. Air tools ******!

Lokka installed. Ring gear reinstalled. Be sure to use M10x1.25 tap to clean out all the factory thread lock inside the ring gear. Use a wire wheel to clean the threads of the bolts.

Little closer!