jscherb
Expedition Leader
Search results for: 'hic wall mount bottle opener'
www.hickitchen.com
Barn Door for JK factory hardtops
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
www.hickitchen.com
jscherb
Expedition Leader
A while back I designed a Rotopax bracket that mounts to the door hinges.
After building that proof of concept I put it aside but in the last few days I made a new version with a few improvements. Also the initial version only worked only with the MORryde HD door hinges but this version works with factory door hinges on both the JK and the JL as well as the MORryde JK hinges.
In this photo it's on factory hinges on a JKU rear half door. It can install on the front doors as well.
And in this photo it's on MORryde HD hinges.
I'll be driving around with a 2-gallon container full of water for the next few days to test the design. I'm using water because at 8.4 lbs. per gallon water is quite a bit heavier than gasoline, which is only 6 lbs. per gallon.
After building that proof of concept I put it aside but in the last few days I made a new version with a few improvements. Also the initial version only worked only with the MORryde HD door hinges but this version works with factory door hinges on both the JK and the JL as well as the MORryde JK hinges.
In this photo it's on factory hinges on a JKU rear half door. It can install on the front doors as well.
And in this photo it's on MORryde HD hinges.
I'll be driving around with a 2-gallon container full of water for the next few days to test the design. I'm using water because at 8.4 lbs. per gallon water is quite a bit heavier than gasoline, which is only 6 lbs. per gallon.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
For me the net door pockets in the JK doors are too small to be very useful and I've been hearing a lot of complaints about the nets stretching and becoming useless, so for a while I've been thinking about making larger pockets. I think two large pockets would be useful make good use of the space, something like this:
The above concept image shows the pockets done in heavy duck fabric, or I could do them in leather:
I'm working on the design and mounting details now and probably will sew prototypes for testing.
Before I finalize the design, does anyone have comments or suggestions on this idea?
The above concept image shows the pockets done in heavy duck fabric, or I could do them in leather:
I'm working on the design and mounting details now and probably will sew prototypes for testing.
Before I finalize the design, does anyone have comments or suggestions on this idea?
I love the idea, prefer the black (will get rubbed by my leg on driver side), like the larger size. Would prefer them to be cheaper than these: https://www.slickrockgear.com/slickrock-gear-jk-pockets-jeep-wrangler-jk-4-door-full-set/
Could it made to be removable or maybe molle panel?
Could it made to be removable or maybe molle panel?
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I've got several other designs I'm considering, one has a Molle panel instead of the front pocket. The rear section is still a pocket because there isn't much clearance between the door and the seat for Molle pouches so I think it's better to keep that part a pocket.
And here's a version with an integrated pouch with a flap:
The entire panel will be removable in the sense that it isn't a permanent installation, but not such that you'd take it with you when you got out of the Jeep. But Molle pouches on the Molle version would of course be removable, and this wouldn't be ordinary Molle, it would be HD Molle so "Grab & Go" pouches could be clipped there, which are instantly removable, just grab it and pull up.
Based on what I've been told about the cost of production at Overland Outfitters, if they picked up these designs I'm sure they could be produced for less than the product you linked to.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I subscribe to two Land Rover magazines from the UK, it's a habit I picked up some years ago when I lived in London. I regularly find interesting ideas in them that could be adapted to our Jeeps - for example, this mounting system for the side of a hardtop:
Doing a version of this to work with a JKU hardtop, for example, would be pretty simple. It's based on fairly common aircraft cargo tracking.
With the various clamps and fittings available for that style tracking, a range of carriers and accessories useful for overlanding could be created. Here's one source for the tracking and fittings: https://www.uscargocontrol.com/shop/Enclosed-Trailer-Accessories/Airline-Straps-Hardware
Carriers for things like jerry cans would have to be fabricated to mount on the rails, but the rails are off-the-shelf parts so there's not too much new construction involved.
Doing a version of this to work with a JKU hardtop, for example, would be pretty simple. It's based on fairly common aircraft cargo tracking.
With the various clamps and fittings available for that style tracking, a range of carriers and accessories useful for overlanding could be created. Here's one source for the tracking and fittings: https://www.uscargocontrol.com/shop/Enclosed-Trailer-Accessories/Airline-Straps-Hardware
Carriers for things like jerry cans would have to be fabricated to mount on the rails, but the rails are off-the-shelf parts so there's not too much new construction involved.
MattJ
Adventurer
Cool! Reminds me of my project to mount some quick shelves in that spot. Can never have too much horizontal space when camping. If this concept is ever adapted for Jeep hardtops, it would be great to create a mounting system that handles fuel/water cans, shovels, other items AND enables quick shelves to be mounted for camping and cooking.
Jeep Quick Shelves Project
jscherb
Expedition Leader
All of those attachments would be good, plus Rotopax mounts, a generic mounting grid for things that can be mounted with QuickFist clamps, and perhaps a Molle panel as well.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
All packed up and ready to leave for the Smokey Mountain Jeep Invasion. My Jeep and trailer will be in the MORryde booth; Retrofit Offroad and Overland Outfitters will also be part of the display and things from all 3 companies are installed on/in the Jeep.
One thing that may be a product soon can be seen in the photo, it's a Rotopax mount that bolts to the door hinges (the white Rotopax. The side mount that the red one is on has been on the market for quite a while)
One thing that I doubt there will ever be demand for as a product is the 5-liter NATO can carrier I have bolted to the rack on the tailgate. Occasionally I've carried a 5 liter NATO can of gas on the trail - 5 liters isn't much but it's small, light and at trail speeds it's 10-mile emergency fuel supply. It would be useful to have a better place to carry it so I made a jerry can holder specifically sized for these smaller cans. I designed it with the same bolt pattern as a Rotopax mount, so it can mount pretty much anywhere a Rotopax can bolt to.
It's a pretty simple design, I made it out of scrap metal left over from other projects.
Also fits nicely on the MORryde tailgate hinge Rotopax bracket on my LJ:
If anyone's at the Smokey show, stop by the MORryde booth and say hi.
One thing that may be a product soon can be seen in the photo, it's a Rotopax mount that bolts to the door hinges (the white Rotopax. The side mount that the red one is on has been on the market for quite a while)
One thing that I doubt there will ever be demand for as a product is the 5-liter NATO can carrier I have bolted to the rack on the tailgate. Occasionally I've carried a 5 liter NATO can of gas on the trail - 5 liters isn't much but it's small, light and at trail speeds it's 10-mile emergency fuel supply. It would be useful to have a better place to carry it so I made a jerry can holder specifically sized for these smaller cans. I designed it with the same bolt pattern as a Rotopax mount, so it can mount pretty much anywhere a Rotopax can bolt to.
It's a pretty simple design, I made it out of scrap metal left over from other projects.
Also fits nicely on the MORryde tailgate hinge Rotopax bracket on my LJ:
If anyone's at the Smokey show, stop by the MORryde booth and say hi.
harrisonrmatt
Member
Jeff - long time admirer of your many different DIY projects and pursuits. I really appreciate the fact that you document and post in such detail - definitely helps novices like me. I recently purchased a hard top for my 2013 JKU after having run a soft top for years. One day with the hard top and I can see why you pursued the the barn door project.
I'd like to take this project on. I have worked with fiberglass previously (albeit much smaller projects), so I am reasonably confident as it relates to that. My two biggest hurdles that I anticipate are (1) incorporating an off the shelf glass panel/frame into the mold, and (2) the attachment design and mechanics of the upper unit to the swing gate (and allowing for ease of removal when I want to run door less).
I have on more than one occasion read through this thread, however I regrettably did not bookmark specific posts that detail various steps in the process. Do you by chance have Google Photos album, Dropbox album, or some repository of photos from this endeavor that can be shared via a link? Worst case is I can pour back through 250+ pages.
I'd like to take this project on. I have worked with fiberglass previously (albeit much smaller projects), so I am reasonably confident as it relates to that. My two biggest hurdles that I anticipate are (1) incorporating an off the shelf glass panel/frame into the mold, and (2) the attachment design and mechanics of the upper unit to the swing gate (and allowing for ease of removal when I want to run door less).
I have on more than one occasion read through this thread, however I regrettably did not bookmark specific posts that detail various steps in the process. Do you by chance have Google Photos album, Dropbox album, or some repository of photos from this endeavor that can be shared via a link? Worst case is I can pour back through 250+ pages.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I don't have the barn door photos in a separate place from the other photos, so you'd have to search through anyway and then you wouldn't get the benefit of the text of each post explaining what's in the photos. Most of what you'll need to know is in the first 20 or so pages anyway, so you won't have to go through the entire thread.
A few things that may help in your planning...
- The factory liftgate glass has a compound curve shape (curved in both directions) and in order to seal properly against the door jamb the barn door will also have to have the same compound curved shape. Getting this shape correct is key to proper weathersealing of the barn door, so focus on those curves in your mold design. If the curves are even slightly wrong, the barn door will leak (my barn doors don't leak BTW).
- In spite of the compound curves, I used flat glass in my design. You can see how I made a flat area for the window in many of the photos. Any glass place can cut glass to whatever dimensions you need, so the glass isn't a problem. You can either use laminated safety glass as I did in the first barn door, or have the window made from tinted glass and have it tempered as I did in the later two barn doors (the third barn door with very dark tinted glass for Florida I made earlier this year so you'll find it fairly late in the thread).
- If your hardtop is the later model, you'll need to make new hinges for your tailgate because hinges that work with a wide barn door are not commercially available. The later model hardtops have liftgates that are wider than the tailgate, and if you try to swing a wide barn door on the factory hinges the door won't work properly because the leftmost side of the barn door is to the left of the hinge pins - when the door opens out the part to the left of the hinge pin will swing inward and the door jamb will prevent the barn door from swinging. I made "wide swing" tailgate hinges to solve this problem they're also documented within the first 20 pages of the thread.
- The factory hardtop weatherstrip will leak with a barn door because of indents it has towards the bottom of the liftgate opening. I wrote about the solution for this as part of building the second barn door. Sorry I don't have a page reference for you but probably if you search on weatherstrip you'll find it.
- Attaching the barn door to the tailgate isn't difficult, I use the same bolts that attach the spare carrier, although not how you might think. How I did it is documented in the thread as well.
- Do you plan to include a rear wiper and washer or a defroster grid in your design? I've covered all of these details at various points in the thread as well.
Good luck with your project. Happy to answer any questions you might have along the way. Focusing on getting the compound curves correct and implementing wide-swing hinges (if you have a later model hardtop) are the most critical details of the project, so concentrate on those details and the rest should fall into place.
harrisonrmatt
Member
Yeah, I realized after I posted that having the explanation to go along with the photos would be more meaningful - thanks!
After inspecting the hatch area, I figured a good place to start would be to make a mold from the factory glass - or at least use this as a starting point to ensure the seal is perfect. I'll glean that detail when I go back through this thread to see how you did this, but that is what I figured when I initially inspected the hatch area (after realizing it was a compound curve).
I'll gather this when I go back through the thread, but I recall (perhaps incorrectly) that you used a framed RV window... it sounds like what you actually did was create a mounting surface/lip/rim where the glass could be seated and glued (similar to the front windshield).
Ah yes, I did notice this too - I have a 2013 with the wider lift glass, so this will be in scope. I will definitely need to take a look at what you did here, thanks for the heads up.
Thanks. I didn't recall this from when I read through this previously, so I will keep that on my radar.
Perfect, thanks. I suppose then the inner panel from the tailgate can be removed to access the mounting bolts...? I didn't spot anything obvious when I inspected the area, but I figured this would be more straightforward that building the entire upper. I'll take a look at what you documented and circle back if I have any questions on this piece.
I recall you covering this, but frankly I don't anticipate adding these features. My Jeep was built as a soft top, so I'd have to purchase the hard top washer/electrical kit and install that in addition to building the functionality into the new upper. I live in FL, so defrost is rarely something I need, and having gone years without a wiper on the soft top, I think I'll be fine to omit. This also reduces some of the scope and complexity for me.
Very much appreciate the help thus far and underscoring the major focus points (appropriately molding the curves and the wide swing hinge). I will take the time to slowly go through what you have documented, put a plan together, and start executing. I no doubt will have questions along the way, so I appreciate your willingness to help.
Thanks!
jgaz
Adventurer
I like your 5L Jerry can mount. I use that size to carry premixed chain saw gas.
You show the mount on the MORryde hinge on your LJ. Thanks, that gives me a reason to take on another project.
If you don’t mind, what gage metal did you use to bend up your prototype.
I’ve never carried the 5L on my Jeep because if I’m using the chain saw and need that much gas, I’m driving the truck in order to haul what we cut.
You show the mount on the MORryde hinge on your LJ. Thanks, that gives me a reason to take on another project.
If you don’t mind, what gage metal did you use to bend up your prototype.
I’ve never carried the 5L on my Jeep because if I’m using the chain saw and need that much gas, I’m driving the truck in order to haul what we cut.
harrisonrmatt
Member
Jeff, I think it makes sense to tackle the hinges first (since I have the wide upper). Are you able to share some measurements and materials for the pair you made for Tom? It looks like some C-channel, rectangular tubing, and a few hardware bits. I am assuming hot rolled steel?
harrisonrmatt
Member
Also, if you are able to explain what mechanically is going on inside the hinge, that would be greatly appreciated. Looks like a shaft for the pin was welded to the hinge arm... I'm not quite sure what the brass/gold-colored component is. Thanks!