Barn Door for JK factory hardtops
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
shortbus4x4
Expedition Leader
Very nice. I'm watching this as I picked up a 16 Unlimited in the Rubicon Hard Rock flavor last Sunday.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
A few weeks ago I posted a concept drawing of a design for true flat fenders for the JK:
Since it's so unseasonably warm today and I can ready the garage for fiberglass work with very minimal heating, I started work on the flat fenders today.
The first step is to build master fenders from which molds will be made. Once the molds are done, fenders can be made in those molds.
The master fenders are parts that are an exact replica of the end product, but with a few adjustments so molds can be made from them. Being an exact replica, the master parts need to bolt up to the Jeep just as the final fenders will, so I'm starting by making the mounting flanges. I'm using a pair of factory fenders as the molds for the flanges, in this photo I've masked off the parts of the fenders that won't be part of the flanges and I'm in the process of prepping the fenders with mold release.
Next I'll shoot gelcoat and then lay up fiberglass to form the flanges. When it's cured I'll have perfectly-shaped flanges which will become part of the master flat fenders.
The tape also shows what the outline of the finished flat fenders will be.
I'll do the fiberglass today and it will be cured by tomorrow morning, so photos of the finished flanges then.
Since it's so unseasonably warm today and I can ready the garage for fiberglass work with very minimal heating, I started work on the flat fenders today.
The first step is to build master fenders from which molds will be made. Once the molds are done, fenders can be made in those molds.
The master fenders are parts that are an exact replica of the end product, but with a few adjustments so molds can be made from them. Being an exact replica, the master parts need to bolt up to the Jeep just as the final fenders will, so I'm starting by making the mounting flanges. I'm using a pair of factory fenders as the molds for the flanges, in this photo I've masked off the parts of the fenders that won't be part of the flanges and I'm in the process of prepping the fenders with mold release.
Next I'll shoot gelcoat and then lay up fiberglass to form the flanges. When it's cured I'll have perfectly-shaped flanges which will become part of the master flat fenders.
The tape also shows what the outline of the finished flat fenders will be.
I'll do the fiberglass today and it will be cured by tomorrow morning, so photos of the finished flanges then.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I've been running a black Tactical Spare Cover on my LJ for the past several months of winter to give it a good test in the road salt and crud we deal with here in upstate NY. With the nice weather today I decided to wash the Jeeps, so I took them through the local automatic car wash. The spare cover came up as good as new, no salt or any other signs of winter wear. I was confident this fabric would stand up well, but wanted to test it in winter conditions here.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
This morning the flatfender mounting flanges were fully cured, so I popped them off the fenders I molded them on.
This is what one looks like right after it came off the factory fender. It hasn't been trimmed. The green tint is mold release, which is water soluble and washes off.
In this next photo, I've trimmed the top and back to final dimensions; the inside wheel arch and a bit of the front and bottom haven't been trimmed yet. Those will be left long for now to provide extra length for making the mold; the final fenders will be trimmed exactly at the wheel arch line after they come out of the molds.
And here's a video showing how the flange fits into place on the fender. Since the top and back are trimmed to the final dimensions, this also shows the top and rear outlines of the flat fender. The wheel arch, front and rear bottom of the flange haven't been trimmed yet, those are needed for mold making.
BTW the fender in the video above is the fender I molded this flange on, it wasn't harmed by the molding process.
The next step is to drill mounting holes so these can be bolted to the fenders, the factory clip holes in the fenders will be used for that. Then they'll be bolted to the JK, and the rest of the flatfender will be bonded to the flange to form complete master parts to make the molds from.
This is what one looks like right after it came off the factory fender. It hasn't been trimmed. The green tint is mold release, which is water soluble and washes off.
In this next photo, I've trimmed the top and back to final dimensions; the inside wheel arch and a bit of the front and bottom haven't been trimmed yet. Those will be left long for now to provide extra length for making the mold; the final fenders will be trimmed exactly at the wheel arch line after they come out of the molds.
And here's a video showing how the flange fits into place on the fender. Since the top and back are trimmed to the final dimensions, this also shows the top and rear outlines of the flat fender. The wheel arch, front and rear bottom of the flange haven't been trimmed yet, those are needed for mold making.
BTW the fender in the video above is the fender I molded this flange on, it wasn't harmed by the molding process.
The next step is to drill mounting holes so these can be bolted to the fenders, the factory clip holes in the fenders will be used for that. Then they'll be bolted to the JK, and the rest of the flatfender will be bonded to the flange to form complete master parts to make the molds from.
Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
Hi Jeff,
When building the fenders, would it be cost prohibitive, to add support flanges to attach mudflaps?
Thinking as an Overlander versus someone just trying to make a pretty Jeep, tear away flaps (so they don't damage the fender if they get ripped away), would be a huge advantage over any aftermarket fender currently on the market. Especially if the design incorporated the ability for the flap to extend up the side for additional width, keeping the majority of grit and grime off the doors.
I'd even be willing to forgo fender top cup holders for a flap feature...
When building the fenders, would it be cost prohibitive, to add support flanges to attach mudflaps?
Thinking as an Overlander versus someone just trying to make a pretty Jeep, tear away flaps (so they don't damage the fender if they get ripped away), would be a huge advantage over any aftermarket fender currently on the market. Especially if the design incorporated the ability for the flap to extend up the side for additional width, keeping the majority of grit and grime off the doors.
I'd even be willing to forgo fender top cup holders for a flap feature...
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Hi Jeff,
When building the fenders, would it be cost prohibitive, to add support flanges to attach mudflaps?
Thinking as an Overlander versus someone just trying to make a pretty Jeep, tear away flaps (so they don't damage the fender if they get ripped away), would be a huge advantage over any aftermarket fender currently on the market. Especially if the design incorporated the ability for the flap to extend up the side for additional width, keeping the majority of grit and grime off the doors.
I'd even be willing to forgo fender top cup holders for a flap feature...
Do you mean something like I've drawn on this photo of the cardboard mockup?
Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
Exactly!
Mounting similar to the Mopar flaps with plastic push pins. This would be an awesome option.
Mounting similar to the Mopar flaps with plastic push pins. This would be an awesome option.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Now that I've got the mounting flanges done, the next step is to do a more accurate cardboard mockup of the flat fender that can be installed on the Jeep to check shape and proportions. In these photos the flat fender is clamped in the vise and the factory fender is sitting on the table; when installed on the Jeep the top of the flat will be slightly higher than the factory fender.
The gray fender is a fiberglass TJ flat fender I made, it's derived from fiberglass CJ-2a fenders that Kentrol gave me when I was making the TJ fenders for them, so the curve is a perfect match to the originals and I've traced that curve onto the JK mockup. I've made the flat top of the fender long enough so it reaches the grille; the factory fender starts to curve down just ahead of the hood latch but since the original MB/CJ-2a fenders reach the grille I'll make the JK flat fender do the same.
The marker light I've mocked up is a CJ/YJ part. In this next photo on the TJ fender you can see a recess intended for mounting that marker light flush with the outside of the fender. Depending on what I decide about marker lights, I might do the same on the JK fender.
This photo shows how the flange is part of the flat fender. The final flat fenders will be one-piece and all fiberglass.
The gray fender is a fiberglass TJ flat fender I made, it's derived from fiberglass CJ-2a fenders that Kentrol gave me when I was making the TJ fenders for them, so the curve is a perfect match to the originals and I've traced that curve onto the JK mockup. I've made the flat top of the fender long enough so it reaches the grille; the factory fender starts to curve down just ahead of the hood latch but since the original MB/CJ-2a fenders reach the grille I'll make the JK flat fender do the same.
The marker light I've mocked up is a CJ/YJ part. In this next photo on the TJ fender you can see a recess intended for mounting that marker light flush with the outside of the fender. Depending on what I decide about marker lights, I might do the same on the JK fender.
This photo shows how the flange is part of the flat fender. The final flat fenders will be one-piece and all fiberglass.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
It should be fairly easy to implement that option. I may not do it in the first set of fenders out of the molds, but I'll keep it in mind so I don't do anything in the design or mold making process that precludes it or makes it prohibitively expensive to implement.Exactly!
Mounting similar to the Mopar flaps with plastic push pins. This would be an awesome option.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
A few more photos of the mocked up JK flat fender. This first photo is the back side and shows the mounting flange. On the final fenders the flange will be trimmed about an inch, up to the sharp curved line, but it's been left long so the fenders can be molded with extra material on the inside of the flange for trimming.
A few outside views. The fenders will one-piece fiberglass, and will be very easy and cost-effective to mold.
I hope to install this on the Jeep later this week to check proportions and shape, and once that's done I'll replace the cardboard with something more substantial that a mold can be made from.
BTW I'm planning two ways that these can be installed - they can either be bolted to the Jeep's metal fender, or they can be installed with plastic "push pins" like the ones used to hold the grille in place - with those the fenders would pop off if they came in contact with a trail obstacle (perhaps at the cost of a few broken push pins).
A few outside views. The fenders will one-piece fiberglass, and will be very easy and cost-effective to mold.
I hope to install this on the Jeep later this week to check proportions and shape, and once that's done I'll replace the cardboard with something more substantial that a mold can be made from.
BTW I'm planning two ways that these can be installed - they can either be bolted to the Jeep's metal fender, or they can be installed with plastic "push pins" like the ones used to hold the grille in place - with those the fenders would pop off if they came in contact with a trail obstacle (perhaps at the cost of a few broken push pins).
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Two new Rubicans showed up today for me to test.
A 10-liter (a little over 2.5 gallons):
And a 20-liter (a little over 5 gallons):
These particular ones are intended for water. They're labeled "Expedition" and "Water", if you look closely you might be able to make the words out in the photos.
The company that sent these to me plans to release the 10-liter Rubicans very soon. They haven't made a decision on the 20-liter ones yet.
A 10-liter (a little over 2.5 gallons):
And a 20-liter (a little over 5 gallons):
These particular ones are intended for water. They're labeled "Expedition" and "Water", if you look closely you might be able to make the words out in the photos.
The company that sent these to me plans to release the 10-liter Rubicans very soon. They haven't made a decision on the 20-liter ones yet.
I would install the flat fenders on my JKU to make sure they fit properly, but once that's done they'd come off. Maybe I'd find someone else who wanted to run them on their Jeep after I verified the fit.
I don't think I've ever posted a photo in this thread, but a while back I did a set of flat fenders for the TJ. I've never used them on my Jeeps, so they turned out to be an art project as well. They're more complicated than the JK flat fender design because they also include inner fenders to make them a 100% bolt-on installation.
They did get installed briefly on a mockup of a pickup proof-of-concept that used one of my fiberglass Jeep-tub trailers as a bed, but other than that they've never been used or installed on anything.
That project used several of my designs - the TJ flat fenders, the fiberglass trailer tub as a bed, and a half-cab version of the LJ/TJ Safari Cab modular hardtop. Oh and my "Cool Cowl" cold air intake cowl kit, that's the red part in the photo above with the air cap on it. I also mocked up another one of my art projects on the proof-of-concept pickup, the TJ Commando Kit. Other than this mockup and another test install, that project has never been used either, but it was a fun art project to build
Sorry for going off-topic with so many of my art projects.
Oh my, I do like that front end, and those fenders, and that bed... need to hit the lottery so I can have you apply a few of your art projects to my TJ...
jscherb
Expedition Leader
You don't have to hit the lottery to buy the pickup bed, it's about $800, sold as a trailer tub kit by Dinoot.com. But the TJ Commando kit and the TJ flat fenders aren't production parts, so hitting the lottery might help with those
.
Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
Hi Jeff,
With the rear rack, have you considered installing the camera system you were testing with the LJ on the JKU?
Something else that would go real well with the rack would be standard Jerry Can holders. Seems like it wouldn't take much to modify one of your previous Jerry Can holder designs to work great with the rack.
With the rear rack, have you considered installing the camera system you were testing with the LJ on the JKU?
Something else that would go real well with the rack would be standard Jerry Can holders. Seems like it wouldn't take much to modify one of your previous Jerry Can holder designs to work great with the rack.