Project "Autonomous" F-350

ericvs

Active member
Yes I know, satire gets so lost on the internet. :sombrero:

Dang it!! I wasn't sure if you were being serious of not, but then I decided that I wanted to post a photo of one of their trucks, so I proceeded anyway.

Anyway, keep up the good work on this thread!
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Thanks ericvs.

When I bought the F250 it had some steel 16.5 rims on it. Since the choices are slim with 16.5 tires, I searched and found some 16 inch factory Alcoa's. I thought it was a smoking deal for $300 since they had some BFG mud terrains mounted on them with some good tread left. The BFG's are only 31 inches tall. It is a big departure from the 37 inch Falken's I was running. The truck does look a lot less intimidating on the small tires. The reduction in diameter cuts down on the vibrations while on the road, but the penalty is a 500 rpm increase at freeway speeds that affects the fuel mileage. Another drawback is the lack of sidewall offroad. The 37's give a lot more comfort in the dirt, and the larger footprint offers a lot more traction. I was crossing over some deep ruts at the Mint 400 and about lost my teeth when the truck dropped into them! The 37's would have spanned the gap instead of dropping in. Once I get the box truck on the road I am seriously considering going to a 40" tire. (The diesel guys are supposed to be making a 40 with a higher load rating). Even if I have to start out in first gear, my rpm's on the frwy in overdrive would be low enough that I could hyper-mile. Once the truck is in 4wd, I have plenty of gear reduction to go anywhere I would want. I might have to look at the brakes to make sure they can handle the added mass. One thing about the Uhaul is that the sterling axle came with the wider drum brakes in the rear. I plan to swap the sterling out of the F350 because it has a trac-loc; I hope the wider rear brakes are just a bolt-on affair.

MRP_5597.jpg
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Still buying parts to swap a T-18 with cast iron bellhousing into the F250 in place of the C6. It will be bolting onto the 97 460 out of the Uhaul. I'm running a hydraulic throwout bearing so I need a stand alone pedal. Trucks of that vintage had mechanical clutch linkage so I can't use a factory pedal cluster. Also thinking of ditching the booster and going with manual brakes. Looking to make the truck as simple as possible so I'm getting rid of parts that might fail.

IMAG0507.jpg

798-78131.jpg

IMAG0252.jpg
 
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On my 79 Bronco I converted to hydraulic by using OEM master cylinder. I did add a brace from firewall to pedal hanger because of firewall flex. Firewall cracking around master cylinder is a common Ford problem. Curious as to whose pedal assembly is that?
 

java

Expedition Leader
Simple is good, but manual brakes? Do you really hate yourself? :) just run boosted, they will still work if the booster fails, and driving will be much more pleasant.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
On my 79 Bronco I converted to hydraulic by using OEM master cylinder. I did add a brace from firewall to pedal hanger because of firewall flex. Firewall cracking around master cylinder is a common Ford problem. Curious as to whose pedal assembly is that?

Definitely going to brace everything. Here is the pedal assy. https://cmwraceparts.com/proddisp.php?pn=WIN5643-02

Simple is good, but manual brakes? Do you really hate yourself? :) just run boosted, they will still work if the booster fails, and driving will be much more pleasant.

I had manual brakes on my El Camino because of the huge cam and it stopped just fine. It had a nasty 383 and auto trans. As long as you get the bore size and pedal ratio right, it's not an issue. Anyone who has ghost rided a stalled engine down a hill knows why I want manual brakes.
 
Two feet on the pedal and two hands on the wheel standing up on the pedal ain't no fun. White knuckle ride when it runs out of vacuum after the 2nd touch.
 

Seabass

Idiot
One thing about it, you got a hand shaker. If its in gear and stalled out you can release the clutch. At least the engine can help slow you down. Shewww......sounds nuts to me. But I figure you know what your doing. I've been reading your stuff for a while now. And you've gave me more than a little bit of great advice. Maybe we can all learn from what your fixing to do. You're fixing to put parts on this truck with the intent of not having a booster. Every time I've had to use brakes with no power - they were not intended to be used that way.....so I'm really interested to see how this works out. I dig having something that's crazy dependable and simple. Your definitely heading in the right direction.
 
Nah it gets really fun when the syncros in the transmission are wore out and it jumps out of gear going downhill. I have watched my dad take his leg wrap his leg around the shifter or tell me to hold the shifter and not let it move. Some joys of growing up in the mountains of TN.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Brake boosters don't do anything to increase brake function, they just reduce effort. If you can push in a clutch, you can push a brake pedal without a booster. I converted my El Camino to manual brakes that could put you through the windshield if you got on them too hard. I'm not worried at all about being able to stop.

ELCO-5.jpg
 

nitro_rat

Lunchbox Lockers
I've seen an old Kaiser-Jeep M715 with manual brakes converted to a corvette dual master that would put you through the windshield with 44 swampers. To drive it you'd never know they weren't boosted!
 

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