Heading Home - AK to MI Solo

howitz

New member
Since May this year I've been living and working at Denali National Park, AK. It was an awesome way to spend a few months, I made some great friends and some money but now the Canyon's a ghost town, the resorts are closed up, and the park is all but abandoned. So it's time to head home to Michigan. I drove up here with a friend who flew back home from Fairbanks, but for the return trip I'll be going solo. I'm usually not much on writing trip reports but I think this will force me to slow down and enjoy the ride as opposed to just putting the hammer down and trying to get home as fast as possible.

My route plan is.... loose. I'm going to be taking the Cassiar south (did the ALCAN on the way north) then hope to make some stops in Idaho. Outside of that I haven't made any plans. Suggestions welcome!

Vehicle is a 2003 Montero XLS pretty much stock except for some larger 235/85 16 tires and the stupid plastic running boards taken off. Also an Ipod jack and a sleeping platform in the back.

So. Here we go.

Pre-trip - My biggest concern was a slight problem with the truck. My exhaust pipe split at some point during the summer, when it did it shot hot exhaust straight up under the drivers side rear seat, melting a bundle of wires and a hole in the plastic under the seat. I discovered this when I smelled burning plastic driving down the Parks Highway. In that cluster of were, at the very least, the wires for the wheel speed sensors and taillights. So my dashboard lights, taillights, ABS, stability control, traction control, and AWD mode.... I never tried to put it in 4WD. "So basically you nuked your car back to the mid-80's." said a more technically knowledgeable friend.... Anyway I pipe clamped a soup can on the exhaust pipe, but didn't bother fixing the electrical issues because since the two months ago when it happened I wasn't driving much at all and since it wasn't getting dark, I didn't need tail lights. I finally crawled under the truck a day before leaving and with some amount of difficulty managed to get the tail lights back on by some cutting and splicing and going through about a dozen 10 Amp mini fuses. A day later all the warning lights on the dash went off and my wonderful 2003 safety features and 4WD modes were back.

Aside from that little debacle it was just a matter of throwing my life into the truck (again) and gassing up.

Day 1 - Denali to Delta Jct
I got out of the canyon around 3pm, an uneventful drive until about 930pm when the sky got dark and the Aurora came out. This is only the second time I've seen it and it was amazing, at times it looked like the whole sky was filled. I had trouble keeping my eyes on the road for the last hour of the drive.

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I stayed at Quartz Lake State Rec site, then hit delta jct the next morning.

Day 2 - Delta Jct to Whitehorse
Finally got to see the end of the ALCAN...exhilarating :rolleyes: ... On the drive up in spring we went south from Tok and so we skipped the last stretch. Looking back, we didn't miss much. Lots of long straight highway.

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Canadian customs was thankfully quick and easy, but the first 30 miles into Canada were brutal. 50km/h speed limits and the pavement torn up. It felt like it took days to get to Destruction Bay. I saw a smaller grizz strolling along the side of the highway and a couple moose. Made it to the Wolf Creek campground just south of Whitehorse around 10pm. Now I'm back up in Whitehorse getting coffee and a donut at Tim Hortons. Time to get back on the road. Next update whenever I run across free wifi.

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howitz

New member
Hello from Prince George.

Day 3 - Whitehorse to Dease Lake
My goal for the day was to make some miles south on the Cassiar and hopefully not hit a bear. In contrast to my trip in May, which had been bright and sunny nearly the entire two weeks, I'd been driving in intermittent rain since I left Denali and today was no exception. I woke up in the rain and it continued on or off (mostly on) for the entire day. The north end of the Cassiar is just a narrow strip of asphalt with no shoulders and lots of blind curves and hills. My first intro to the road was passing a truck hauling two trailers on a hilly straight section about 5 miles in .... :Wow1:.
Darkness has been setting in around 7:30-8:00 and I've usually been driving an hour or two after that to camp. Not today, however. With the rain and the narrow road and the big furry things everywhere I crawled along after dark until I reached the Sawmill Point campground, just north of Dease Lake, at around 7:45. I set up my bed and read and passed out hoping to wake up in the sunshine.

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A brief break in the rain.

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The Milepost says theres good bear watching along the Cassiar and I'm happy to say that's good info. I saw 7 black bears and 1 grizzly along the way.

Day 4 - Dease Lake to Burns Lake

I woke up to a brief glimpse of blue sky outside my window and hoped for the best. I wanted to get some miles in today so I broke camp around 8:15 ate a quick breakfast of granola bars and a bagel and started rolling. There was some sunshine in the morning but fog replaced the rain so the going was still just as slow and cautious as before. By about noon though the skys were clear and I was booking along. The highway going south gets better and better as you continue. At the northern terminus it's and 80km/h speed limit and bumpy asphalt. By the time you hit the Yellowhead Hwy (16) at Kitwanga it's well maintained smooth pavement with shoulders and a 100km/h speed limit.


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My campsite (with other campers in the background) in the morning at Sawmill Point, near Dease Lake.

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Road and conditions getting better...


I finished the Cassiar that afternoon and turned east on the Yellowhead highway. By 6:00 it was slowly getting dark again and I pulled over to try and figure out a place to camp for the night. I was just outside Smithers and because I misread the Milepost I thought there was a campground just off the highway past Houston. It turned out to be 25 miles off the highway, and it was closed, so I continued on. My maps showed Babine Lake Provincial Park north of Burns Lake so I decided to head for there. I got turned around a few times trying to find Babine Lake road, which turns into windy gravel just outside town. 16km later I hit an intersection where I followed a sign for Pinkut Lake Recreation Site, which didn't appear on any of my maps or in the Milepost. Just around the corner was a completely empty campground on a small lake. Except for a near complete lack of downed wood for a fire, it was a great spot. I had a few beers, heated up some dinner over my tiny fire and tried to get a picture of the Aurora which made an appearance on the north horizon across the lake.

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The Aurora over Pinkut Lake.

Day 5 - Burns Lake to ???

It's almost two now, and I haven't made much progress today. I stopped for lunch in a restaurant in Vanderhoof and now I'm typing this up in Starbucks in Prince George. Since I turned onto the Yellowhead it's feels like I'm back in civilization for good. Passing lanes, towns every 15 or 20 miles, gas stations with more than just a pump sitting next to an above ground tank and people everywhere....

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This morning at Pinkut Lake. Clear blue skies, dead calm water, and the jankiest of janky *** docks.

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The repair job.... as requested. You can see the new looking red wires where I bridged the melted out gap in the taillights.

Thanks for letting me dump my thoughts somewhere. Until next time.
 

java

Expedition Leader
Sub'ed!

I have been yearning for a trip up north.... This has been my latest musing. Looking forward to more updates.
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howitz

New member
I finished up Day 5 just north of Hope, BC and slept in a roadside rest area after driving until about 11pm.

Day 6 - Hope, BC to Crescent City, CA
I woke up early and crossed the border at Sumas into Washington. Soloing is fun, but I was about ready for some human contact again, and some of my Alaska friends were going to be meeting at another friends place near Crescent City, CA so I hit it hard and drove south all day to meet them. I took I-5 for most of the way then cut west on OR 42 to the 101 and took that the rest of the way along the coast. Definitely the long way, but worth it, I basically had the road to myself carving along the coast and through the woods in the middle of the night. I arrived to meet my friends on the beach having a big driftwood bonfire at around 11:30 at night.

Day 7 - Wandering around Northern California
No driving today. I was pretty burnt out from the last two days in the drivers seat so it was nice to relax and not spend all the day in the car. Redwoods, swimming, seafood, (and more beer). Also take a very needed shower and do some laundry.

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Day 8 - More bumming around
Currently sitting in the Black Lightning Cafe in Eureka, CA while the oil in the truck's getting changed. Probably going to crash here one more night before turning back east and up to Idaho.
 

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