Battleship Jones: 2015 Tacoma DCLB Build Thread

[Adventurous]

4.88's, no question. Consider the fact that, in addition to tires, you've added a lot of weight to the vehicle. Then, compare the final drive ratios of the manual vs. the automatic - I think you'll find that you're final drive ratio is much lower (numerically) than that of a manual.

I just put 4.88's in my 04... bumpers, topper, skids, etc... 285/75-16 General AT2's in load range D. HUGE improvement. Sure, cruising RPMS went up 18%... but at 70mph, that puts me at 2600 rpms. Now it can pull a slight incline w/o shifting.

In hindsight? I may have done 5.29's. Seriously.


EDIT: did some searching.....

6th gear - manual - OD is .85:1
5th gear - automatic - OD is .71.:1

So you could drop gear ratios almost 20% and still be in the same cruising RPM as the manual with stock tires...

Considering no opinion I've solicited has been anything other than 4.88, sounds like that's the only way to go!

I also agree with 4.88. And why stop, just get the front ARB and be done with it. And if you do that, isnt the ECGS bushing no longer needed? I also plan to do the sport rotors and yellow pads soon. I think the TRD sport braking sucks as is. Heard the TRD offroad brakes are WAY more grippy under heavy braking. Good to hear you are still liking the setup.

You are right, the bushing is no longer needed if you do the ARB. I can just see the look on my wife's face now, "But honey, I actually saved money! By going with the $900 ARB locker I didn't have to buy the $45 bushing!" Maybe this one will be one of those purchases made on the down low... :snorkel:

These trucks should have came with the 4:88's from the factory! The truck is soooo much more enjoyable to drive after the gear upgrade, I installed the Nitro 4:88's with REM polish. No more huge boggy spot in the throttle and the gear hunting is gone. I went with the front ARB locker so as mentioned above no ECGS bushing needed. I did buy the bushing and tool before changing my mind and installing the ARB, they are available for sale if anyone needs them.

Hodakaguy

Funny, I have the ECGS bushing sitting in my toolbox as well. I was thinking I would stick with stock gears and all, but it's just such a dog with them I'm not sure I can. Not to mention I've literally run out of power before trying to back up, so perhaps I should be viewing a gear change less as a modification and more as a long term investment in the well-being of something I'll be keeping for the foreseeable future.

Hey Tim, there is a site here http://grimmjeeper.com/gears.html that has a nice handy dandy gear ratio calculator. You input your transmission model, transfer case ratios, final drive ratio, and tire size. It will tell you your rpms at a given speed, or you can put in speed and get rpms. Once you know your rpms for your gearing and tire size, you can simulate the gearing by putting it in fourth and driving at those rpms on the highway. You'll get a feel for engine noise & vibes, and I think some of the scan gauges might give you instant fuel economy.

From my experience, if you are running 33" or bigger and towing, you'll want 4.88. I don't tow, so the 4.56 work for me, as I don't want the additional highway rpm. The best mpg I get is about 15.5 in the mountains at 65-70 mph. I should be able to do better on flat land, but going 75 ish keeps it at 15.5. Highway rpms are the only downside to gearing. They are great around town and off road.

How are you liking the Kings?

If I could afford to have more thumbs surgically attached, for the sole purpose of being able to give the Kings more thumbs up, I would. Much like the move from OME to ICON showed how much the OMEs struggled to keep up, the move from ICON to King has showed how much the ICONs couldn't hang. I can definitely feel it as well as I still have ICONs in the back, they don't provide the same ride quality that I've come to expect from the front.

Of course, this is all based on my opinion that progressive valving is superior to digressive, but there are probably some people who feel opposite.

 

[Adventurous]

I spent some time this weekend beginning preparations to stuff a larger transmission cooler up front. Now, there are several ways this job can be accomplished, the bigger one can be added in series with the OEM or it can replace it, it could live on the passenger side of the vehicle or occupy space on the driver's side. Each has its pluses and minuses, but accommodations need to be made either way.

I will be replacing the OEM cooler with a Derale 52506 and placing it on the driver's side of the vehicle. This meant that the horns were in the way. I've seen some people relocate them to the center support, but I decided to move them to the passenger side. First step was to locate a few holes on the passenger side, center punch, tape, and prepare to drill. As a precautionary matter, I put a block of wood behind the location I'm drilling. It would has been a very unpleasant task to have to replace a radiator if the drill bit were to punch through.

Untitled by Tim Souza, on Flickr

Deburred it all, shot it with primer, hit it with paint, then blasted it with the heat gun for a bit to hopefully get most of the paint/primer to flash off. I followed that up with an RTV coated (really encapsulate that fresh sheet metal edge) M8 rivnut so I could re-use the OEM hardware.

Untitled by Tim Souza, on Flickr

Luckily the horns only have a single wire connection, one of which is jumpered off the other. I cut the wire, soldered in an extension, marine heat shrunk the connection, then reloomed and taped everything.

Untitled by Tim Souza, on Flickr

Not the world's prettiest job, but everything works, things are tucked out of harm's way, and all is well again.

Untitled by Tim Souza, on Flickr

So much more room to work with now! Gonna start brainstorming ideas for mounts. Also thinking about adding a pusher fan in front of the transmission cooler cause I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy.

Untitled by Tim Souza, on Flickr

 

[tjalward]

I believe that you would not want a fan in front of the cooler if you can avoid it. If the cooler can't keep up, and you cannot put a fan on the backside, then perhaps a fan on the front side is OK. But puller fans are more efficient, and don't block velocity air pressure. Pusher fans are usually only used when there is truly no room on the back for a puller, or if the heat exchanger is not located in the direct airflow. The fan would only be useful when going really slow, when the load isn't that substantial anyway. Would you put the fan on a manual switch, or some sort of automatic thermostat?

Also, when you put the new larger cooler in, are you going to add trans fluid? or at least check the fluid level with the appropriate sequence? Going to do any sort of flush? Those are the things I'm thinking about, not sure where to go with it yet.

 

[Adventurous]

I believe that you would not want a fan in front of the cooler if you can avoid it. If the cooler can't keep up, and you cannot put a fan on the backside, then perhaps a fan on the front side is OK. But puller fans are more efficient, and don't block velocity air pressure. Pusher fans are usually only used when there is truly no room on the back for a puller, or if the heat exchanger is not located in the direct airflow. The fan would only be useful when going really slow, when the load isn't that substantial anyway. Would you put the fan on a manual switch, or some sort of automatic thermostat?

Also, when you put the new larger cooler in, are you going to add trans fluid? or at least check the fluid level with the appropriate sequence? Going to do any sort of flush? Those are the things I'm thinking about, not sure where to go with it yet.

I was thinking switched, I have a free relay in the Bussmann block that I could easily wire this up to. Figure it might really only be necessary on those hot summer days running under high load or extended periods of 4-low. I supposed I don't have to add it at the moment, but whatever mounting system I come up with will probably include mounting points just in case.

And I'll make a date with Toyota to do a complete flush after I add the cooler. I know they have their convoluted heat cycling method that seems damn near impossible to replicate at home. The whole sealed transmission is kinda a bummer, no more just pouring a few more oz of fluid down a fill port. Unless of course you know of a relatively easy at home solution?

 

[tjalward]

Yeah, I was going to call the dealership and see what the cost would be and how much fluid is required if I supply the fluid. And if they can do it that way or if they use an apparatus that is already loaded with fluid from a supply drum or something. I'd like to get some good quality fluid to swap out, but don't know how much is needed in a flush situation or if they are even willing to do it.

Regarding the fan, if you monitor the temps and use it, go for it. But I bet you will more likely need to use the fan if you have it mounted on the front. The cooler itself will work better if there is no fan in front of it, maybe negating the need for a fan. To each their own, many ways to skin a cat for sure.

Maybe we should contact Scott B. and see what his temps are, and if he would have done it any differently?

 

[Dmski]

I have mine on a switched setup with a transmission temp gauge to tell me what is going on. Works like a charm, although I think I am still undercooled on warmer days... May need to upsize. But its nice to turn it on when you are about to hit a steep grade on a trail and leave it on after you've reached the top.

 

[tjalward]

I have mine on a switched setup with a transmission temp gauge to tell me what is going on. Works like a charm, although I think I am still undercooled on warmer days... May need to upsize. But its nice to turn it on when you are about to hit a steep grade on a trail and leave it on after you've reached the top.

Sorry to hijack Tim:

But to @Dmski
Pics please! Which cooler did you install, and is the fan pushing or pulling? Thanks!

 

[Scott B.]

I also advise against a pusher fan - a puller fan is a better idea.

However, before you go to the effort of added a fan, run your larger cooler and watch temperatures. With my larger cooler, if the trans temp goes up under load, say while climbing a hill, as soon as the load is off, the temp immediately drops. In my use so far, I don't see a fan being needed.

Are you going to add an external filter? Our "sealed" systems do not have a good filtering system - a filter will help keep the fluid clean, reducing wear on parts.

 

[Scott B.]

Yeah, I was going to call the dealership and see what the cost would be and how much fluid is required if I supply the fluid. And if they can do it that way or if they use an apparatus that is already loaded with fluid from a supply drum or something. I'd like to get some good quality fluid to swap out, but don't know how much is needed in a flush situation or if they are even willing to do it.

Regarding the fan, if you monitor the temps and use it, go for it. But I bet you will more likely need to use the fan if you have it mounted on the front. The cooler itself will work better if there is no fan in front of it, maybe negating the need for a fan. To each their own, many ways to skin a cat for sure.

Maybe we should contact Scott B. and see what his temps are, and if he would have done it any differently?

My temps, on a hot day with a trailer, normally run 160 - 180. Occasionally, they peak 200 - 210 for a very short time. Today, in the winter, without a trailer, the temp might get to 120 (which may be too cold.)

No, I would not change anything - I am happy with my setup.

 

[Adventurous]

Re-vamped my compressor mounting over the weekend. If you recall, I had it crammed in the following location. It required drilling holes through the fenders and adding spacers, and a lot of blood-letting trying to get the whole assembly together.

20150116-P1010255 by Tim Souza, on Flickr

It recently came to my attention that Slee Offroad (right down the street) had finally released a couple of mounts for the 05-15 Tacomas to tuck either an ARB single (P/N SOK002) or dual (P/N SOK001) compressor in that same area. Ordinarily I wouldn't go back and redo something like this just for the hell of it, but I had a leak somewhere in my compressor that caused it to cycle every few minutes, and it was tucked into a place that would make it tough to add locker solenoids in the future.

The Slee instructions are pretty good, so I won't re-hash those (http://www.sleeoffroad.com/installation/2005-15_tacoma_compressor_bracket_v1.1.pdf), but I deviated from them a little bit in one area. The power steering reservoir came from the factory with rubber isolators at each of the 3 mounting points. While the compressor itself has it's own isolators, I wanted to retain those. As the OEM mount has slots cut into their mounting bracket to allow a single piece isolator to slip in, the Slee mount is solid, requiring me to cut the OEM one in half. The same washer/sleeve can be utilized, and it ends up looking like this.

Untitled by Tim Souza, on Flickr

After getting it all bolted up it looks like this.

Untitled by Tim Souza, on Flickr

Things are much more neatly packaged in the same space. There's wiggle room to slide the compressor forward if I wanted and plenty of space for locker solenoids. For those looking for a good spot to stuff an ARB, I think this spot with the Slee mount is about as clean and easy as it gets.

 

[Adventurous]

I also advise against a pusher fan - a puller fan is a better idea.

However, before you go to the effort of added a fan, run your larger cooler and watch temperatures. With my larger cooler, if the trans temp goes up under load, say while climbing a hill, as soon as the load is off, the temp immediately drops. In my use so far, I don't see a fan being needed.

Are you going to add an external filter? Our "sealed" systems do not have a good filtering system - a filter will help keep the fluid clean, reducing wear on parts.

Good call on the filter, perhaps I can figure out a way to integrate that into the system as well. *goes back to your thread to see what you did*

 

[Scott B.]

Good call on the filter, perhaps I can figure out a way to integrate that into the system as well. *goes back to your thread to see what you did*

I mounted the filter to the right of the re-located horns.

Like the cooler on the driver's side, I plumbed the filter by rerouting the rubber hose on the passenger side.

 

[blueranger501]

Can you elaborate more on the kings vs icon once you get some more time with them? What could the icons not keep up with vs Kings. How is normal ride quality different on the street? Any dirt time yet? About to put my BFF bumper on so will need to revisit my 650# coils. Might be time to revisit shocks as well.

 

[tjalward]

Can you elaborate more on the kings vs icon once you get some more time with them? What could the icons not keep up with vs Kings. How is normal ride quality different on the street? Any dirt time yet? About to put my BFF bumper on so will need to revisit my 650# coils. Might be time to revisit shocks as well.

I have ICON 700 pound springs I'm selling, brand new. Let me know if you are interested.

 

[Adventurous]

Well that was expensive.

Anyone wanna come help me take some differentials out then put them back in? :smiley_drive: