Operation OverlanderZ - Lysol's 2014 JKUR Build
- Thread starter lysol
- Start date
With time, yes. I am going to get the ARB full front bumper. I've always liked the way they look. I like the AEV rear, but it's expensive with the swingaway so that will be a little later. I actually want to get the RockHard Sports Cage. It will give the Wrangler some more protection as well as mounting points over the dash for the (2) battery meter gauges, switch panel, and HAM radio remote mount. But, again... that will come with time lol.
Making a little progress with my relay box. I completed version 1 of my wiring diagram. I have to rearrange a few things and then complete the version 2. I'll probably re-write it again a 3rd time to get my wire management down on paper and then start building. Pretty much, I'm going to have a main relay box under the hood that will house the relays and the fuses. I am going to be using axial fuse and relay holders mounted to a metal plate that is then mounted in a fiberglass/polyester project box (by Hammond MFG). The box is about 9" x 9" x 4" on the inside. I'll cut out sections in the plate under the relay and fuse holders so I can run most of the wires under the metal plate to save space and keep it clean. I will have (12) 40-amp mini relays (w/resistors) and (4) 20-amp micro relays (w/resistors). (3) of the micro relays will allow me to customize (3) of the front light relays to require the high-beam be switched on to run. The 4th micro relay will be my "All Lights On" switch relay that will turn on all "light" relays (this is purely for fun) and won't be practical at all. I am also building a small box that will mount inside the dash and provide me a customized configuration for the switches (i.e. keyed ignition, timed relay override, dash illumination, etc...). My wiring diagrams are all for a dual battery setup (power to the accessories will be from an aux battery and all the switch wiring will be from the main battery). Once the fuse/relay box is complete, adding an accessory will be easy. Just run the positive wire from the accessory to the box and tap into the correct spot on the terminal block. Easy Peasy. The incoming switch wires will also have their own mini-terminal strip to tap into.
I just ordered a 6-switch sPOD bezel (bezel only) which will be at my door next week. I wanted the 8-switch bezel, but they didn't have enough in stock. I can always purchase the larger bezel later. The box (main relay) is about $75 (+$10 internal plate) so I'm going to wait until I have all the internal parts and can confirm that they will fit inside the box before I purchase it.
I'd have to say, it's been fun designing the diagram placing diodes here and there to keep current from flowing between circuits. I can only talk about it on here though because the wife wants nothing to do with this hahaha.
I just ordered a 6-switch sPOD bezel (bezel only) which will be at my door next week. I wanted the 8-switch bezel, but they didn't have enough in stock. I can always purchase the larger bezel later. The box (main relay) is about $75 (+$10 internal plate) so I'm going to wait until I have all the internal parts and can confirm that they will fit inside the box before I purchase it.
I'd have to say, it's been fun designing the diagram placing diodes here and there to keep current from flowing between circuits. I can only talk about it on here though because the wife wants nothing to do with this hahaha.
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Also to add... I've been measuring some under the hood and I'm about 99% positive I'll be placing the relay box directly above and forward of the brake fluid reservoir on the drivers side. It seems I have about 4" of clearance to the bottom of the hood padding above the metal pipes on the ABS unit. I should easily get about 5" with the padding compressed. I'm thinking about using the MORE ARB compressor mount to mount the relay box.
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This is pretty much the switches I'll be ordering from OTRATTW (minus the Blue Sea switch)
Upper Panel Config:
1.) “Front Bumper Flood” (Amber/Green) (arm for hi beam to turn on) MNR
2.) “Front Hood Spot” (Amber/Green) (arm for hi beam to turn on) MNR
3.) “Front Roof Spot” (Amber/Green) (arm for hi beam to turn on) MNR
4.) “Left Roof Flood” (Red/Green) MNR
5.) “Right Roof Flood” (Red/Green) MNR
6.) “Back Roof Flood” (Red/Green) MNR
Lower Panel Config:
1.) “Timed Ignition Override” (Top Only - Amber) (Momentary/Delay Off) (30-min timed relay w/ cancel option) (ARMS ALL SWITCHES) TR
2.) “CB Radio” (Red/Green) MNR
3.) “Ham Radio” (Red/Green) MNR
4.) “Radar Detector” (Red/Green) (Could be any accessory) MNR
5.) <Red Blue Sea Switch> (Amber/Amber)
MNR = 40A Mini Relay | MCR = 20A Micro Relay | TR = 10A Timed Relay | SR = Special Relay
These 2 switch clusters will only use up (9) out of the (12) 40Amp relays leaving me with (3) more to use for future accessories.
Upper Panel Config:
1.) “Front Bumper Flood” (Amber/Green) (arm for hi beam to turn on) MNR
2.) “Front Hood Spot” (Amber/Green) (arm for hi beam to turn on) MNR
3.) “Front Roof Spot” (Amber/Green) (arm for hi beam to turn on) MNR
4.) “Left Roof Flood” (Red/Green) MNR
5.) “Right Roof Flood” (Red/Green) MNR
6.) “Back Roof Flood” (Red/Green) MNR
Lower Panel Config:
1.) “Timed Ignition Override” (Top Only - Amber) (Momentary/Delay Off) (30-min timed relay w/ cancel option) (ARMS ALL SWITCHES) TR
2.) “CB Radio” (Red/Green) MNR
3.) “Ham Radio” (Red/Green) MNR
4.) “Radar Detector” (Red/Green) (Could be any accessory) MNR
5.) <Red Blue Sea Switch> (Amber/Amber)
MNR = 40A Mini Relay | MCR = 20A Micro Relay | TR = 10A Timed Relay | SR = Special Relay
These 2 switch clusters will only use up (9) out of the (12) 40Amp relays leaving me with (3) more to use for future accessories.
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Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
Great to see you back at it again!
Will look forward to watching the progress. :beer:
Will look forward to watching the progress. :beer:
Modified my Tuffy Underseat Drawer with a Kiddie Touchpoint lock. Tuffy pulled these from their website as they are not plug and play with the Wrangler Underseat Drawer. Appearantly a lot of people were complaining about it not working even though their website never stated it did. But.... after carefully marking and drilling 4 holes, filing the lock shaft of the lock, bending the cam with pliers to clear a piece of metal in the drawer, purchasing #6 lock washers, and applying red Locktite, I'm calling it finished. I was only able to put in 3 of the 4 screws, but the one that's missing is next to the big lock shaft that comes into the front of the drawer anyway so if someone starts hitting it with a hammer, that part will likely take the brunt of the impacts. All I have to say is that having a combination lock is soooooooooooooo much better than a key. I can get in and out in seconds.
