Gen 2.5 blew my engine, replacement engine prep question
- Thread starter BOPOH
- Start date
vanatee2000
Observer
I didn't..figured I would do it when it needed it. I'm all for preventative maintenance but I think doing the head gaskets before they fail is beyond preventative..at least for my purposes. The motor should last 180 to 200k before needing a head gasket and since the motor I got was at 124k and I drive 7k miles a year, I figure I will be good for a while. I have better things to spend my dough on since its in such limited supply. Also, I couldn't justify the cost or time because there are other things that can go bad in a car besides the motor. What if I spent all that money and energy to replace perfectly good head gaskets then the next month the transmission blows up because it has so many miles..or a diff..or a steering rack...or whatever else. Then it would have great new head gaskets but I still wouldn't be able drive it anywhere. But, if I had unlimited funds I would have done it differently..like getting the whole motor rebuilt by mitsubishi. There are a million things that could be preventative maintenance but I think the things to do while the motor is out are the things that are significantly harder to do when it's in, or things that you have to do anyways..for example, rear main seal is super easy to do when the motor is out but once it's in the car you have to drop the transmission or pull the motor if you want to replace it so that's good preventative maintenance, in my opinion. But of course who knows what's best for the motor you got
BOPOH
Explorer
that's the path im on. One time i had to replace rear main seal twice in a week and it was not fun. Speaking of other thing that can go bad i'll have to check my diffs and breather hoses, probably got some water in there now. Here are the parts that i'm waiting. I'll take more pictures tomorrow when i start tearing it down even more
Attachments
BOPOH
Explorer
i'm back! let me start of by saying - never buy replacement engine without pulling yours first!
Long story short i return the engine and was planning to get new transmission BUT then i finally got everything out myself. Got tired of waiting on everyone so i bought engine hoist and stand. Here are some pictures, let me know if you have any questions
Also one bolt from torque converter is missing, i think it's stuck in bell housing. Engine is leaking oil like crazy from front main seal, but oil pan seems alright
Anybody got an idea what does pieces are? i think they were stuck between starter and flywheel stopping the engine from turning. By the way it turns normal by hand. Right now i'm hoping everything is OK. Filled up engine with diesel to clean out anything bad, then going to tear apart check it over and replace seals.
Long story short i return the engine and was planning to get new transmission BUT then i finally got everything out myself. Got tired of waiting on everyone so i bought engine hoist and stand. Here are some pictures, let me know if you have any questions
Also one bolt from torque converter is missing, i think it's stuck in bell housing. Engine is leaking oil like crazy from front main seal, but oil pan seems alright
Anybody got an idea what does pieces are? i think they were stuck between starter and flywheel stopping the engine from turning. By the way it turns normal by hand. Right now i'm hoping everything is OK. Filled up engine with diesel to clean out anything bad, then going to tear apart check it over and replace seals.
Jay Ayala
Explorer
I'm of a completely different opinion. This doesn't work for me at all vanatee. I bought my raider in 2002. So given the chance to pull the engine or perform a swap, I WILL completely overhaul the engine. Including new seals, bearings and sensors. Everything Top to bottom regardless of other maintenance and potential failures. Why?
Because I plan on keeping my Raider. It's a daily driver and my 4x4 off-road toy. I expect complete reliability for the next twenty years on this vehicle and given the opportunity, I will take excellent care of the engine. Any subsequent repairs will get fixed or replaced.
1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L
1997 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L
BOPOH
Explorer
my little templates
those bolts missing because i used them to remove oil pan - perfect fit
those caps are perfect covers for spark plug tubes, just enough tension to stay and let air in so it's easy to spin crankshaft
Here are the things from the top
There is my bottom end
Bit dirty, actually there WAS a little twig stuck in it, how the hell it got there?
dirty cylinders inside
Here is the truth about engine flush - it doesn't work!!!
Oil pump removal
Front seal aka crankshaft seal - stubborn little bugger
Here is my next tearing down/cleaning project
That's it for night, gotta figure out how to clean all that crap from the block. any suggestions anyone?
those bolts missing because i used them to remove oil pan - perfect fit
those caps are perfect covers for spark plug tubes, just enough tension to stay and let air in so it's easy to spin crankshaft
Here are the things from the top
There is my bottom end
Bit dirty, actually there WAS a little twig stuck in it, how the hell it got there?
dirty cylinders inside
Here is the truth about engine flush - it doesn't work!!!
Oil pump removal
Front seal aka crankshaft seal - stubborn little bugger
Here is my next tearing down/cleaning project
That's it for night, gotta figure out how to clean all that crap from the block. any suggestions anyone?
Last edited:
BOPOH
Explorer
cleaned out oil pump and have some questions
it was so dirty that last piece didnt want to come out
I end up using 1/2 bolt with paper towel to screw in that piece to get it out
After all was cleaned, i filled it up with oil and spun couple of times and it was leaking from the shaft connector, is it normal?
After that i decided to clean out alternator - it was like a nest in there
it was so dirty that last piece didnt want to come out
I end up using 1/2 bolt with paper towel to screw in that piece to get it out
After all was cleaned, i filled it up with oil and spun couple of times and it was leaking from the shaft connector, is it normal?
After that i decided to clean out alternator - it was like a nest in there
BOPOH
Explorer
typical stuff: about 75% saturated hydrocarbons and 25% aromatic hydrocarbons
Very effective especially for $3.35 per gallon :wings:
Jay Ayala
Explorer
Great job BOPOH,
It looks like some of those parts needed some help and a thorough cleaning. A couple things I will mention, #1) My Favorite way to clean oily parts and #2) The Oil Pan Flange.
So let me start off by talking about my favorite new way to clean out dirty, oily & grimey engine parts. Believe it or not, Safer Paint Thinner. It cuts the oil out really really effectively. I bought one of those Harbor Fright part washers and a couple of gallons of Safer Paint Thinner. You need to thoroughly shake the bottles but it can sometimes clean an oily part without doing more than running it under the tap. For caked on grease and grime, it will take a little additional effort with some wire brushes. What I really like about this, is that there are very little chemical fumes from the Safer Paint Thinner. It may take a little getting used to because it looks like milk, but I am a believer in this stuff. In this picture below, you can see the parts washer and the Safer Paint Thinner being used. Here is a Youtube video that turned me onto this method of cleaning. Cleaning Old Greasy Oily Engine Parts Safely and Effectively Part 1
that oil pan flange has a tendency to bend a little around the bolt hole locations as it is made of sheet metal. As good of quality that is used to make the oil pan, it will still slightly bend as you torque it onto the engine with the oil pan gasket. It may be a good idea to lightly hammer it flat again. I just ran into this problem with my 1989 overhaul and had to replace the oil pan gasket on a freshly overhauled 3.0L engine due to a little seeping at the flange mate of the oil pan. Here is a link to that project. 1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L Oil Pan Gasket
It looks like some of those parts needed some help and a thorough cleaning. A couple things I will mention, #1) My Favorite way to clean oily parts and #2) The Oil Pan Flange.
So let me start off by talking about my favorite new way to clean out dirty, oily & grimey engine parts. Believe it or not, Safer Paint Thinner. It cuts the oil out really really effectively. I bought one of those Harbor Fright part washers and a couple of gallons of Safer Paint Thinner. You need to thoroughly shake the bottles but it can sometimes clean an oily part without doing more than running it under the tap. For caked on grease and grime, it will take a little additional effort with some wire brushes. What I really like about this, is that there are very little chemical fumes from the Safer Paint Thinner. It may take a little getting used to because it looks like milk, but I am a believer in this stuff. In this picture below, you can see the parts washer and the Safer Paint Thinner being used. Here is a Youtube video that turned me onto this method of cleaning. Cleaning Old Greasy Oily Engine Parts Safely and Effectively Part 1
that oil pan flange has a tendency to bend a little around the bolt hole locations as it is made of sheet metal. As good of quality that is used to make the oil pan, it will still slightly bend as you torque it onto the engine with the oil pan gasket. It may be a good idea to lightly hammer it flat again. I just ran into this problem with my 1989 overhaul and had to replace the oil pan gasket on a freshly overhauled 3.0L engine due to a little seeping at the flange mate of the oil pan. Here is a link to that project. 1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L Oil Pan Gasket
BOPOH
Explorer
Thanks for the tips Jay! i'll make sure i check oil pan to make sure it's flat. where did you get this oil pan gasket? i was hoping to find something similar for mine.
Jay Ayala
Explorer
I think I bought it at O'REILLY's. But it's pretty common. You can probably find it at AutoZone.