How much "Exercise" till C/D light stops coming on?

[RodB]

Since purchasing my 2001 Montero Limited in January I have had all 5 transfer case switches replaced, freewheel clutch valve & freewheel clutch switch replaced, transfer case & front/rear differential fluids changed and greased the front actuator rod. I still get the C/D light flashing periodically without using the 4x4 system. It will go out after turning the vehicle off and restarting, but it is annoying. The dealership has said everything is good and it just needs "exercised" How much "exercise" till the C/D light stops coming on? Is going from 2H to 4H adequate or do I need to go down to 4HLc and 4LLc? Is there any thing else I should check and/or replace? Just getting a bit frustrated with this

 

[jhill15]

You have definitely put more than me into getting this issue resolved but the dealer that "fixed" mine said the same thing "exercise the system" ive had my right front wheel sensor replaced twice, both diff and t case fluid changed and still every once ina while I get flashing t case lights on the front tires, sometimes they go off about a mile down the road other times the cdl light flashes and I have to turn off the truck and restart to get it to go away.
I wish I had the answer cause i'd like to know as well but for now...ive simi learned to live with it, but it still irks me when they pop up.

 

[RodB]

Wheel Sensor

What prompted replacing the front wheel sensor? Were you getting an ABS light/code in addition to the flashing C/D light?

 

[plh]

I recommend going into 4HLc as well. Center Differential is locked and unlocked going into and out of 4HLc to 4H as well as 4LLc

 

[jhill15]

The dealer ran a diagnostic on it and it threw a code for the right front wheel sensor, and I didnt know this but they said a bad wheel sensor will cause the 4wd lights to flash and when the cdl light flashes it stores a fault code in the t case ecu...or bcu i cant remember which one it was lol.

On a side note the reason they replaced the front right wheel sensor twice is because the first one they put in shorted out within a month of installation. ..luckly parts and labor was covered under warranty as it was a $300 for parts labor and diagnostic the first time it was done.


I wasnt getting an abs light just the 4wd and cdl flashing. They said the wheel sensor was tied into the traction control system and it would cause the lights to flash.

 

[drfreema]

Same 'exercise' for a flashing rear diff? I can hear the air pump engage and then go off but the light keeps flashing.

 

[RodB]

Gen 2 Rear Diff

Same 'exercise' for a flashing rear diff? I can hear the air pump engage and then go off but the light keeps flashing.

I'm not sure on the Gen 2 rear diff. The US Gen 3's didn't have an optional locking rear diff, so I would assume it would not be the same. Maybe some of the Gen 2 guys here can respond.

 

[mapper]

I recommend going into 4HLc as well. Center Differential is locked and unlocked going into and out of 4HLc to 4H as well as 4LLc

You aren't exercising anything connected to the CD if you aren't going in to 4HLc. So yes, you need to select that position, at low speeds and preferably not on dry pavement. I don't think 4LLc is necessary because 4HLc is already locking the center diff, and that is the part needing "exercising".

 

[billygoats]

Same 'exercise' for a flashing rear diff? I can hear the air pump engage and then go off but the light keeps flashing.

These were the symptoms mine gave when I sheared the teeth off my rear locker. It doesn't take much to shear teeth. One wheel moving slightly faster than the other while engaging will do it. If your locker was working fine before and now is exhibiting these problems, then it's the locker teeth, the locker sensor, or a remote possibility of the locker pump. I did a write up in a previous thread.

 

[PirateMcGee]

I got sick of the 4wd system and switched to manual hubs, permanently locked in the actuator, and add a flip switch for displaying 4wd/making abs happy. Not sure if that's possible on a Full size though.

 

[RodB]

Finally...

Just an update. I had checked the DTC codes by grounding pin one of the OBD2 connector. It had set code 33 - Transfer Position Switch System and code 35 - Freewheel Engagement Switch System. As mentioned previously all 5 switches on the transfer case and the freewheel clutch valve and freewheel clutch switch had bee replaced by the local Mitsubishi dealer. Called them and let them know it had gotten worse with "exercise" and what codes were set. Dropped it off Tuesday night. To their credit, they supplied a rental car for me while it was in the shop. Called me Thursday morning stating it was done. Said one of the switches on the top of the transfer case had "backed out". So far, so good. I've put over 100 miles on it and no flashing C/D light. Shifts well through all the 4x4 positions. Hopefully it is finally fixed!

 

[jhill15]

Good to hear. I wonder how one of the switches backed out.