HELP. I am stuck with a monty on jackstands.

CSU126

Observer
I am trying to do ball joints my self and I am stuck on the lower ball joint. I got the ball joint to release, all 4 bolts are out but I cant seem to get enough room for the ball joint shaft to clear where it slides into the lower side of the steering knuckle. I have read that most remove the knuckle. Understand I am learning as I go. I have the manual but am confused as to the procedure to remove the knuckle. Is there an easier way? Are there any cheats or do I need a special tool to remove the knuckle. Sorry if my articulation is not the best but I am trying. Thanks in advance.

Scott
 
There is a random bolt you need to remove as well as a grease nipple before you can slide the lbj out. They are accessed via 2 holes on the lca. Hopefully I understood your question. If not please post pics.
 

CSU126

Observer
Sorry for no pictures BillyGoats. The problem I am having is the I cant lower the knuckle enough so that the lower ball joint shaft will clear. The axle hits the inside of the LCA. IS it possible to remove the whole hub assembly without taking all the bearings and such apart so I can pull the axle out of the way or will I ruin bearing seals or something?
 

MascotRejct

Adventurer
I believe, and don't quote me on this as I've only had my gen 3 for a couple weeks, that the hub is a single assembly. The bearings are not removable.
 
I'm not sure I've run into that problem. But you can remove the knuckle and slide it right off once you remove ubj, lbj, tie rod end, brake caliper, abs sensor. You won't ruin any outer seals. Be careful about overextending the inner cv/axle stub if working on the driver side. The driver side just slides into the front carrier and is held in by tension of a circlip on the inner stub. The pass side is bolted with 4 nuts or bolts.
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
I think you need to jack up the LCA, sounds to me like you have it unloaded.

Here's how i roll (by memory so forgive me if i miss or skip a step)

With Lower control arm loaded (on a jack stand with the weight of the truck holding it down) it's harder if you're cranked to the max but still not bad))

#1 remove drive flange cap, circlip and drive flange

#2 disconnect ABS and brake lines

#3 remove the lower castle nut on the lower balljoint

#4 reinstall castle nut downside up halfway

#5 remove upper castel nut

#6 reinstall castle nut downside up halfway

#7 using a hammer (i use a 3lbs sledge with a short handle) hit the knuckle where the tapered hole is located (just below the balljoint) and the knuckle will drop out of the balljoint shaft and hang on the nut you threaded on halfway

#8 repeat for second balljoint

#9 remove castle nuts and remove knuckle, be sure to pay attention to the brass washer inside the knuckle that rides against the CV it has to go in exactly as it came out or you will be redoing this work once you go to put the drive flange on.

#10 let the knuckle hang from the TRE (tie rod end) since you're not doing TREs

#11 unbolt and remove your balljoints


Now you can install your new parts and reassemble.

Tips...

If you can't get the ABS sensor out easily just leave it in place.

Don't be a weakling about sledging your knuckle because you can't break this part and it will laugh at you.

Pickle forks are for pickles BUT TRE pullers do work on balljoints although you will probably still need to sledge the knuckle once it's under tension.

Keep long zip ties or wire handy to tie things up/back if needed.

Things to consider

Moog and 555 <ThreeFives parts are your best options for aftermarket and obviously OEM is best since they are made from some kind of metal mined in hell and forged by Satan himself like all Mitsu OEM parts. Anything else isn't worth your time or Money (some auto parts stores put Moog and 555 parts in their boxes too so shop around)

Don't try to let the puller do all the work because you may break it
 

CSU126

Observer
Thank you Ninja. I was finally able to get the lower ball joint off by removing the steering knuckle. I have never done that before so I was kinda being a wimp about it. I ordered MOOG parts from rockauto. Now I am having a problem reinstalling the new lBJ. With the 4 mounting bolts in place the factory installed grease fitting it too close to the grease fitting cut out on the LCA. SO once bolted up I cannot get a grease gun on it. I have tried 45 and 90 degree angle grease fittings but its still too close. I guess being made in Indonesia the tolerances are not that great. My only option at this point is to install it and never be able to grease it or cut out the hole alittle wider in the LCA. Any ideas?
 

plh

Explorer
Thank you Ninja. I was finally able to get the lower ball joint off by removing the steering knuckle. I have never done that before so I was kinda being a wimp about it. I ordered MOOG parts from rockauto. Now I am having a problem reinstalling the new lBJ. With the 4 mounting bolts in place the factory installed grease fitting it too close to the grease fitting cut out on the LCA. SO once bolted up I cannot get a grease gun on it. I have tried 45 and 90 degree angle grease fittings but its still too close. I guess being made in Indonesia the tolerances are not that great. My only option at this point is to install it and never be able to grease it or cut out the hole alittle wider in the LCA. Any ideas?

I use a needle fitting on the grease gun. Looks like this: http://www.automotivetools.com/Amer...y-Adapter-Needle-1-1-2-/8027/662/Product.aspx
 

legerspencer

New member
Reviving an old thread here, but I'm about to replace my ball joints and want to make sure i know what I'm doing. Will I have to fully disassemble my hub and reassemble it/repack my bearings/etc. to replace my ball joints, specifically the LBJ?
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
I’m pretty sure ball joints can be done without removing the hub. You may need to pop the tie rod loose to be able to move the knuckle around enough but I think it is possible.
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
You need to remove the hub to remove the knuckle but you won't have to repack the bearings if you don't remove the spanner nut inside.
 

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