TaTundra 1 gen DC build

IS-RIDER

Observer
Also need to install the locker in the front clamshell. Got quoted $625 to install the locker even if I just bring the clamshell... for that $$ I'm gonna do some research and hopefully tackle it myself


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Seams a little steep. I just paid $1,026.00 to drop the truck off and regear. I got a quote at another garage for $1,800.00! Pays to shop around.


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tyv12

Adventurer
Seams a little steep. I just paid $1,026.00 to drop the truck off and regear. I got a quote at another garage for $1,800.00! Pays to shop around.


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Ya for sure, talked to a few other gear shops not when I mentioned air locker they kinda gave me a blank look then said "ya we can do it" meaning they had no idea and would wing it lol


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tyv12

Adventurer
Weird. Wonder if that's an AC vs DC deal or just one of those anomalies between 05 and 06s versus the rest of the 1st gens

My dad has a 2005 AC I'm gonna measure his just out of curiosity and I'll post up what I find. It blows my mind how many variations they made in a few short years


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tyv12

Adventurer
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Here's the size difference on the flanges, swapped out no problem. The gearing change from 3.91 to 4.56 is drastic. Such a big difference that under hard acceleration my transmission was stuttering due to spooling up faster that the computer thought it should. Had the transmission memory reset and drives amazing now. Before the change my speedometer indicated 100kph I would be actually traveling 112kph on gps. After the change with 100kph indicated I'm actually going 88kph on gps. So at 120kph on the highway I'm at 2450 rpm. The truck always downshifted all the way to 3rd on long hills but now it only have to shift to 4th and rpms sit at about 3500 and sits there, much nicer to drive this way looking forward to seeing if I gain some mileage


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tyv12

Adventurer
I just put the rear in for right now, gonna tackle the front myself, bought the tools
And the instructions are very detailed so I'm confident I can handle it. Because the gears are already setup I can take my readings and make sure I put them to where they were before


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scheefdog

Observer
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Here's the size difference on the flanges, swapped out no problem. The gearing change from 3.91 to 4.56 is drastic. Such a big difference that under hard acceleration my transmission was stuttering due to spooling up faster that the computer thought it should. Had the transmission memory reset and drives amazing now. Before the change my speedometer indicated 100kph I would be actually traveling 112kph on gps. After the change with 100kph indicated I'm actually going 88kph on gps. So at 120kph on the highway I'm at 2450 rpm. The truck always downshifted all the way to 3rd on long hills but now it only have to shift to 4th and rpms sit at about 3500 and sits there, much nicer to drive this way looking forward to seeing if I gain some mileage


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Did you replace the crush sleeve when you swapped the diff flange? Or is that diff already set up with a solid spacer?

I just swapped 4.56 diffs from a 2001 Tacoma into my 06 Tundra DC and ran into the same size difference on the rear driveshaft to flange. Interesting that the older Tundras had the smaller flange too - I would not have expected that. I decided to just drill new holes in the flange at 45 degrees from the old even though they are in the very edge. I am going to pull the third back out in the next few months to add an lsd or locker and will do a proper flange swap then.

What is the actual unloaded height of your tires? Mine are 33.5" tall and my speedometer and odometer is 10% off with the 4.56 gears. When it says I'm doing 50 mph - I am actually going 55 mph. This is verified with gps and mileage markers. Kind of odd to me that mine is off in that direction after the gear swap. Makes me think that the speedometer is getting its signal from a wheel sensor. Does your truck have VSC? My truck does not.

How did you reset your transmission ecu? Mine seems fine after the swap, but it is probably worth doing a reset if it is easy. The power delivery difference is drastic with the new gears.
 
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tyv12

Adventurer
The pinions have shims so the only thing the flange nut affects is preload on the gear. I just counted my threads and marked where it was and put it back to where it was before should do the trick, not exactly sure where the tundras read with the speedo but I do not have vsc. My brother is a Toyota tech so he reset the transmission memory through tech stream. It goes to a default then relearns driving styles or something like that


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tyv12

Adventurer
So finally getting around to putting the front locker in, after watching some tutuorials and the arb instructions are really good I'm gonna set it up myself.
First of all checked where the setup was at as the gears had been professionally installed.

This was the pattern...
Drive
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Coast
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Not amazing, from what I can determine this means the pinion is slightly too deep as the drive mark is so far to the toe. Now I'm hoping maybe someone one here has some insight if this is alright to run like this or if I should be readjusting my pinion depth, any help is appreciated.
The craziest thing is seeing how tiny the 7.5 front 3rd is, amazing that these things hold together but I'm definitely gonna be gentle with a front locker in
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toyotech

Expedition Leader
Since the front doesn't run at high speeds or even long periods at a time. It doesn't have to be perfect. Yours does look like it needs some work. I'm no professional at all for setting up gears but that pattern looks pretty bad to me. If there isn't a lot of mileage on them in 4x4 I would play around and see if it gets better. Now did you apply resistance to the gear while turning. There is also a process to doing a pattern check.


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seanpistol

Explorer
I don't know anything about what the pattern is supposed to look like, but there aren't many miles on the front diff at all since they were set up by Six States. I'd guess realistically around 200?
 

tyv12

Adventurer
Yes I was careful on the pattern checking and I'm gonna make some adjustments and see how it pans out


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tyv12

Adventurer
So finally got the diffs in the truck and have been installing the compressor and wiring, since my winch solenoids are on the passenger side I decided to built a bracket to hold the air compressor under the brake master cylinder, it's a seriously tight fit but now that it's in it allows for the shortest distance wiring, air lines to the lockers and access for the pump up kit. Just need to run my air lines to the diffs and finish up some electrical.
Working at cutting out the lower change tray in the interior and will accommodate 6 switches and should be a fairly clean look with the switches out of the way. Just need to put a filler piece of pvc surround to hold
Things in place. I put 3 blanks
In for now for future accessories.
Looking forward to having working lockers.
Only slight trouble I'm having is little bit of noise while coasting in gear from the rear end and I'm probably gonna have to pull the rear end again and check my pinion preload properly with having changed drive flanges but I'm really not looking forward to that... good news is fuel economy is better now than when I ran 33s and stock gearing so it's amazing how 35s and 4.56s seems to be a good ratio for gas mileage so far as well


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