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Thread: What did you do to your hard-sided truck camper recently?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,212
    I didn't put in a powerwall, but managed to message two 6 volt golf cart batteries into the battery compartment of my northstar adventure. I also installed a Trimetric battery monitor and a progressive dynamics 'boondocker' smart converter. Next up a 'maggies rack' roof rack and solar!
    1997 Dodge Ram CTD, 5 Speed manual, BD exhaust brake, 5x12 injectors, 4k Gov. springs, Thuren coils, Fox shocks, Stable loads, 99HD steering, Carli end links, Method Race Wheels, 295/70/18 Cooper STTMaxx tires.

    2011 Northstar Adventurer

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    North Spokane, WA
    Posts
    605
    My camper needs to come off the truck soon so I can take the truck back to the dealer who did body damage to it last week when they were replacing wire harnesses. Although, I'm not sure I want their staff touching the truck again.
    Doug
    2009 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A, 2010 Arctic Fox 811 truck camper, '02 DR-Z400, '07 KLR650, and a land yacht enclosed trailer (20')

    www.overland-gear.com | www.ledtrailerlights.com

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    West Slope Northern Sierra Nevada
    Posts
    392
    Lot's of upgrades as of late. The complete converter system on my 1998/Lance 165-s went south this year. I'm replacing the board with a big upgrade and adding 100W of solar to boot. Also an extra battery installed along the frame rail of the truck will give me 4 batteries to drain. The truck is getting more stuff too. A front, Dana 60, 35 spline axle Eaton/Detroit True Trac, all-gear driven, Limited Slip has arrived and will be put in next week.
    The other one is for the front of my XJ:

    Last year I put in a Free Spin bearing kit; new steering parts; tie rod; drag link, Gen4 pan hard rod, new rubber grommets for all the anti sway bars; new tie rod ends; wider spaced, replaceable front spindle bearings; free wheeling hubs with Dana 70, 35 spline outers.
    jefe
    2001.5 4WD Dodge 2500, HO-CTD, SB, QCab, NV5600, NV241HD, 4.10's, 3" lift steer brace Gen4 trkbar/tie rod/drag-link Front: 35 spline Dana 70 spindle conversion with M M locking hubs; Detroit TRUE TRAC Mosiers unit bearing&axle disconnect delete, AT3 315/75R16's on 7.5" steel wheels. Rear: 8 leaf, Stable Loads, 35 spline Dana 80, TRUE TRAC, AT3 315/75R16 on 10" wide Stockton steel wheels. 15K lb. winch, 1998 Lance Lite, 8'6", 165-s XTC, 200W solar.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Backpacking 'tween Airbnb's
    Posts
    457
    Not the hard side, but the mule, 6.0 liter F550 4wd, got dropped off last night for a full bulletproofing treatment

    One step closer to the full time road!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Canterbury New Zealand
    Posts
    90
    I found an old brass fire guard and cut it down and fitted it as a shield behind the gas cooker.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Backpacking 'tween Airbnb's
    Posts
    457
    Removed external generator and the built in propane Onan entirely - no generators now.

    Installed four golf cart batteries and a 2000w pure sine inverter in the former genset compartment - microwave, blender, and DW's hairdryer are all happy with its output.

    Yay, solar and silence!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Canterbury New Zealand
    Posts
    90
    I recently added some airtabs to the camper . 12 down each side and 16 across the top.

    I understand they are marketed as fuel saver , but I did not find that to work for me , instead , I find I am traveling down the road 5mph faster

    The major benefit I experience is improved stability, both in windy conditions and especially when a big truck passes going the other way , major reduction in buffeting and sway.

    Makes for a much more relaxed drive.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orygun
    Posts
    519
    Over the past couple of weeks I pulled new solar wire with MC4 connectors, rewired the orig Shell Solar panel (110) with heavier wire and MC4 connectors, installed a Carmanah 160 panel (two more panels to go, but they will have to wait). Ordered up a 3000 Watt pure sine wave inverter, two automatic transfer switches (replacing the org shore/genny one as I read it was recalled due to fire concerns and adding a new one for the shore/genny vs inverter), a Blue Seas sub panel (3 breakers for outlets, kitchen outlet, and microwave). Went to install my second OEM dual battery box yesterday. It was freezing fog and just too damn cold. After removing the little compartment door where the second batt box will reside, I discovered it will take a lot more work (the hole is 3" wider than the hole needed in one section, so I will have to fill the wall to make it narrower (think I'll laminate up .5x1" oak strips for this, then glue on fiberglass skin from other areas where I'll be enlarging the hole (vertical) and fill those mating seems with Marine Tex -should not be noticeable when done, but going to take a bit of work -the batt door will cover most of the repair, but not quite all). Oh, installed a 28" smart TV (only $209 from Wal-Hell, so can't hardly beat that). Old pic below, but you can see where I intend to install the second batt box on the left. Other option is to stick it right in the middle. However, there's a stud right in the middle. Suppose I could build a header and transfer the force to the sides of the new batt box, but I'd have to build it between the exterior and interior sheathing. I think it would be a pain and unless I used a lot of wood or used steel or T6 (I have a lot of 1x1.5 T6), I would have concerns about doing it this way. If I moved the orig box forward an inch, I could put the new one right next to it, but even then, I'd be cutting into the vertical stud at the center. I think I have to go with the wide hole and dress it up. Uggh.

    2015 Ram 5500 4x4 Crew, 197" WB with a Bradford [Poorly] Built flatbed
    Okanagan 116ULT
    Desert Dynamics 4/5 Seater (Build in Progress)
    '86 CJ7 (a little build for towing behind the big rig)
    2009 Subaru Outback Limited

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orygun
    Posts
    519
    Over the past couple of weeks I pulled new solar wire with MC4 connectors, rewired the orig Shell Solar panel (110) with heavier wire and MC4 connectors, installed a Carmanah 160 panel (two more panels to go, but they will have to wait). Ordered up a 3000 Watt pure sine wave inverter, two automatic transfer switches (replacing the org shore/genny one as I read it was recalled due to fire concerns and adding a new one for the shore/genny vs inverter), a Blue Seas sub panel (3 breakers for outlets, kitchen outlet, and microwave). Went to install my second OEM dual battery box yesterday. It was freezing fog and just too damn cold. After removing the little compartment door where the second batt box will reside, I discovered it will take a lot more work (the hole is 3" wider than the hole needed in one section, so I will have to fill the wall to make it narrower (think I'll laminate up .5x1" oak strips for this, then glue on fiberglass skin from other areas where I'll be enlarging the hole (vertical) and fill those mating seems with Marine Tex -should not be noticeable when done, but going to take a bit of work -the batt door will cover most of the repair, but not quite all). Oh, installed a 28" smart TV (only $209 from Wal-Hell, so can't hardly beat that). Old pic below, but you can see where I intend to install the second batt box on the left. Other option is to stick it right in the middle. However, there's a stud right in the middle. Suppose I could build a header and transfer the force to the sides of the new batt box, but I'd have to build it between the exterior and interior sheathing. I think it would be a pain and unless I used a lot of wood or used steel or T6 (I have a lot of 1x1.5 T6), I would have concerns about doing it this way. If I moved the orig box forward an inch, I could put the new one right next to it, but even then, I'd be cutting into the vertical stud at the center. I think I have to go with the wide hole and dress it up. Uggh.



    I'll probably stick with the compartment area. If I can't match things up perfectly, and even if I do, I may just add a sweep to it as I'll have to remove the current one. Something like this would work (flipped over):

    2015 Ram 5500 4x4 Crew, 197" WB with a Bradford [Poorly] Built flatbed
    Okanagan 116ULT
    Desert Dynamics 4/5 Seater (Build in Progress)
    '86 CJ7 (a little build for towing behind the big rig)
    2009 Subaru Outback Limited

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    North Spokane, WA
    Posts
    605
    Added an outside light on the right side, where there isn't a factory installed light.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_9wb79Ovus
    Doug
    2009 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A, 2010 Arctic Fox 811 truck camper, '02 DR-Z400, '07 KLR650, and a land yacht enclosed trailer (20')

    www.overland-gear.com | www.ledtrailerlights.com

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