What did you do to your hard-sided truck camper recently?

workerdrone

Part time fulltimer
Removed external generator and the built in propane Onan entirely - no generators now.

Installed four golf cart batteries and a 2000w pure sine inverter in the former genset compartment - microwave, blender, and DW's hairdryer are all happy with its output.

Yay, solar and silence!
 

Dusty-NZ

Observer
I recently added some airtabs to the camper . 12 down each side and 16 across the top.

I understand they are marketed as fuel saver , but I did not find that to work for me , instead , I find I am traveling down the road 5mph faster :)

The major benefit I experience is improved stability, both in windy conditions and especially when a big truck passes going the other way , major reduction in buffeting and sway.

Makes for a much more relaxed drive. :)
 

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deminimis

Explorer
Over the past couple of weeks I pulled new solar wire with MC4 connectors, rewired the orig Shell Solar panel (110) with heavier wire and MC4 connectors, installed a Carmanah 160 panel (two more panels to go, but they will have to wait). Ordered up a 3000 Watt pure sine wave inverter, two automatic transfer switches (replacing the org shore/genny one as I read it was recalled due to fire concerns and adding a new one for the shore/genny vs inverter), a Blue Seas sub panel (3 breakers for outlets, kitchen outlet, and microwave). Went to install my second OEM dual battery box yesterday. It was freezing fog and just too damn cold. After removing the little compartment door where the second batt box will reside, I discovered it will take a lot more work (the hole is 3" wider than the hole needed in one section, so I will have to fill the wall to make it narrower (think I'll laminate up .5x1" oak strips for this, then glue on fiberglass skin from other areas where I'll be enlarging the hole (vertical) and fill those mating seems with Marine Tex -should not be noticeable when done, but going to take a bit of work -the batt door will cover most of the repair, but not quite all). Oh, installed a 28" smart TV (only $209 from Wal-Hell, so can't hardly beat that). Old pic below, but you can see where I intend to install the second batt box on the left. Other option is to stick it right in the middle. However, there's a stud right in the middle. Suppose I could build a header and transfer the force to the sides of the new batt box, but I'd have to build it between the exterior and interior sheathing. I think it would be a pain and unless I used a lot of wood or used steel or T6 (I have a lot of 1x1.5 T6), I would have concerns about doing it this way. If I moved the orig box forward an inch, I could put the new one right next to it, but even then, I'd be cutting into the vertical stud at the center. I think I have to go with the wide hole and dress it up. Uggh.

upload_-1.jpg
 

deminimis

Explorer
Over the past couple of weeks I pulled new solar wire with MC4 connectors, rewired the orig Shell Solar panel (110) with heavier wire and MC4 connectors, installed a Carmanah 160 panel (two more panels to go, but they will have to wait). Ordered up a 3000 Watt pure sine wave inverter, two automatic transfer switches (replacing the org shore/genny one as I read it was recalled due to fire concerns and adding a new one for the shore/genny vs inverter), a Blue Seas sub panel (3 breakers for outlets, kitchen outlet, and microwave). Went to install my second OEM dual battery box yesterday. It was freezing fog and just too damn cold. After removing the little compartment door where the second batt box will reside, I discovered it will take a lot more work (the hole is 3" wider than the hole needed in one section, so I will have to fill the wall to make it narrower (think I'll laminate up .5x1" oak strips for this, then glue on fiberglass skin from other areas where I'll be enlarging the hole (vertical) and fill those mating seems with Marine Tex -should not be noticeable when done, but going to take a bit of work -the batt door will cover most of the repair, but not quite all). Oh, installed a 28" smart TV (only $209 from Wal-Hell, so can't hardly beat that). Old pic below, but you can see where I intend to install the second batt box on the left. Other option is to stick it right in the middle. However, there's a stud right in the middle. Suppose I could build a header and transfer the force to the sides of the new batt box, but I'd have to build it between the exterior and interior sheathing. I think it would be a pain and unless I used a lot of wood or used steel or T6 (I have a lot of 1x1.5 T6), I would have concerns about doing it this way. If I moved the orig box forward an inch, I could put the new one right next to it, but even then, I'd be cutting into the vertical stud at the center. I think I have to go with the wide hole and dress it up. Uggh.

upload_-1.jpg


I'll probably stick with the compartment area. If I can't match things up perfectly, and even if I do, I may just add a sweep to it as I'll have to remove the current one. Something like this would work (flipped over):

2012%20HL%20charcoal%20sweep-500x500.jpg
 
This week:

Tore out water damage below fridge access that caused the tie down eye to fail. Replaced with new wood, replaced siding. Will be adding a 3/8" 3x3 aluminium angle the from the jack moon up front past the rear tie down. It will be welded to a new jack mount bracket up front. This will put the force of the tie downs along the whole length of the camper. I'll feel WAY more confident in Baja with this setup.

Moved the Tempurpedic mattress from the guest room into the lance.

Cleaned EVERYTHING top to bottom.

Went thorough all systems and checked for proper operation.

Replaced Fridge roof vent.

Painted out a bunch of old plastics that had yellowed with age.

Build a "spacer" under the camper so the cab-over section clears my roofline.


Busy week :)
 

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