What did you do to your Mitsubishi today?

PaydayGabe

Active member
So Inmates,, I serviced every electrical connection related to the charging system (super clean and tight). Drove to town yesterday (110°) and still the voltage flip/flop.
Obviously the heat is causing the issue w/ the regulator....
I could remove the Alt and have it tested but I can bet it will be ok at AutoZone, unless they run it until hot and it starts to fail. So,,, I'm shopping for an upgrade.
Std output is 85 amps,
Ideally I would like to double that. Keep those ideas coming. Thanks again, G.

Also,, I was getting sporadic shifting from the transmission, possibly from the voltage fluxes. Oil levels were fine.
speculating,, IDK..

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
The FSM has a very good diagnostic procedure for testing alt output but you need a DC current meter to run the test. Also have you considered a bad battery as a possibility?
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
The FSM has a very good diagnostic procedure for testing alt output but you need a DC current meter to run the test. Also have you considered a bad battery as a possibility? Also, try running a volt meter on the cig lighter to double check your dash meter while underway. What other symptoms do you have other than the gauge dropping? Fan bogging? Lights dimming?
 

PaydayGabe

Active member
Thanks for your reply Sal,,

No abnormalities other than the blinking Batt lamp in the dash. Happens when hot obviously.

I have a DC volt meter,,
which gave me 14+ volts off the main lug and Neg batt term at idle and higher.
I have a USB adapter w/ voltage indicator.
It normally shows 13.3/.5v
but drops to 11v or less.

The Battery is not the appropriate Group 24.
A smaller unit from PO.
It is currently working.
It will eventually get upgraded. Considering a group 31 agm once I resolve the Alt issue.
Thats pretty much the skinny on this.
, LMK your thoughts.
Cheers , G.


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

PaydayGabe

Active member
Thanks for your reply Sal,,

No abnormalities other than the blinking Batt lamp in the dash. Happens when hot obviously.

I have a DC volt meter,,
which gave me 14+ volts off the main lug and Neg batt term at idle and higher.
I have a USB adapter w/ voltage indicator.
It normally shows 13.3/.5v
but drops to 11v or less.

The Battery is not the appropriate Group 24.
A smaller unit from PO.
It is currently working.
It will eventually get upgraded. Considering a group 31 agm once I resolve the Alt issue.
Thats pretty much the skinny on this.
, LMK your thoughts.
Cheers , G.


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
Hey Inyo, good job with the fluids. Give us an update on the suspension service (bushes).
What model Montero are you working on?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
No worries...
The bushing refresh project is on hold at the moment while I give the VW Vanagon's rear brakes a rebuild (drums), new shoes up front, and flush the system. Only issue is, I'm buggered after work, so it's a weekend job if everything goes well. It didn't...one new brake cylinder had a bad seal. So ordered a new one, but didn't get it until the next day...The bad Centric part that was made in China. The new Centric part is made in Italy. The Italian part looks identical to the OEM part! The Centric part made in China works, but is not nearly as stout.

The Montero is an '02 (in signature). It has over 230k on it and running strong.
Cheers.
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
Thanks for your reply Sal,,

No abnormalities other than the blinking Batt lamp in the dash. Happens when hot obviously.

I have a DC volt meter,,
which gave me 14+ volts off the main lug and Neg batt term at idle and higher.
I have a USB adapter w/ voltage indicator.
It normally shows 13.3/.5v
but drops to 11v or less.

The Battery is not the appropriate Group 24.
A smaller unit from PO.
It is currently working.
It will eventually get upgraded. Considering a group 31 agm once I resolve the Alt issue.
Thats pretty much the skinny on this.
, LMK your thoughts.
Cheers , G.


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I’m talking amperage......you need a clamp style DC amp meter to run the current test.
 

Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
PaydayGabe, Is the alternator is still the original unit? If you are thinking of replacing the unit, I'd go with a Denso.
As far as battery size, I've always run a group 34 (AGM) in my Gen III.
Good luck with your diagnosis.
 

PaydayGabe

Active member
I seriously doubt it original.
Although I have been wrong before .
I'm gonna have Alt and Batt
tested before I start tossing $$$.
Although this is a hassle, w/ older under maintained vehicles,, an extended shake down test period seems essential of course.
Thankfully we made it home safely instead of a failure in the bush.
Just part of the process.

What is your current battery mfg and overall option??
Thanks for your replies,
have a great weekend. G.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

PaydayGabe

Active member
That was exactly as I expected..

Battery is fine under load,
Alternator is at 14+ volts at idle.
Naturally the anomaly ( fluctuating voltage) only happens when running HOT.
Thankfully the test was free.

So,,, moving on . Rrr.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

PaydayGabe

Active member
UPDATE::
The situation with my Alternator was inconclusive.
Same symptoms.

Bite the bullet, ordered a new 200amp upgrade from eagleautoelectric.com
(on ebay) in Northridge Ca.
$179+ tx, plus 3 new belts at $44.
The unit number is 13615-HO- 200Amp Alternator w/ 1yr warranty.

Installed and operating as it should.
Plenty of extra juice for potential accessories in the future.
Hopefully this will outlast me.
Next will be a Battery upgrade.
"You gotta pay to play"

Have a great weekend. Cheers , G.



Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
Glad to hear you are sorting things out!

What is your current battery mfg and overall option??

Currently I'm running a DieHard Platinum (marine deep cell/starter) group 34, AGM, 850 cca, 135 rc. It has an additional set of posts to hook up a compressor etc.
With Sears going out of business, I doubt these are available any more.

Bite the bullet, ordered a new 200amp upgrade from eagleautoelectric.com
(on ebay) in Northridge Ca.
$179+ tx, plus 3 new belts at $44.
The unit number is 13615-HO- 200Amp Alternator w/ 1yr warranty.

I'm curious why you decided to go with this company...
Why not Denso (OEM)?

Cheers
 

PaydayGabe

Active member
Recommendation from a member on Mitsubishi Montero USA group on Facebook w/ good results.
I emailed them multiple times with questions and my requirements. They were very accommodating.
Price was reasonable also.
$179+tx. Time will tell.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
Since you were looking for a 200amp, it's just as well because the Denso (210-4178) is a mere 100 amp unit.
Cheers
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,789
Messages
2,878,239
Members
225,329
Latest member
FranklinDufresne
Top