Isuzu NPS 300 camper build

Morg0

New member
You mentioned that you bought a fuel sender for your extra tank for about a $100.00. Can you tell me where you purchased it from because I am having a hard time finding one.
 

4x4coaster

Adventurer
You mentioned that you bought a fuel sender for your extra tank for about a $100.00. Can you tell me where you purchased it from because I am having a hard time finding one.

MorgO,
I purchased it through the Isuzu dealer in Geelong so any dealer should be able to supply one.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Some truck wreckers will also sell the senders, but others don't want to separate it from the tank. You just to let your fingers do the walking and ask...
 

4x4coaster

Adventurer
Here are my Atlas tanks,
all will be mounted between the chassis,
2 fresh & 1 grey.
Capacities are 185, 85 & 65 for the grey.

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DSC03062.JPG
 

4x4coaster

Adventurer
Finally some bling to show!
ATW package of wheels, tyres, parabolics, shocks, modified steps, brake line extensions, sway bar extension and speedo correction all fitted by John Addison as the ATW dealer in Geelong - WestCoast RV, Thanks John!

DSC03065.JPG

DSC03066.JPG

DSC03067.JPG

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4x4coaster

Adventurer
Has anyone out there used the Excelsior 'Super ICISS inverter/charger ' in either the 12v or 24v version?

I'm thinking of using the 24v version as the truck is already 24v.

I am also pretty sure you can get almost any accessory in 24v as well as 12 that would be needed in the camper.

http://www.excelsiorpower.com.au/category23_1.htm

Not sure if these units are available outside Australia.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
What sort of house batteries do you plan on using, as this can determine some of your other electrical choices.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
have you decided on your setup? (Fuso is 12v)

Pretty much, but I have yet to buy some of the hardware.
I have 400A of LiFePO4 batteries and will have 400W of amorphous (UniSolar) solar panels on the roof.
To get the same "usable" output from AGM batteries I would need about 900A. My 400A weighs just under 60KG. That is the batteries themselves and the restrictive mounting enclosure I built for them.

My preference is to charge the batteries at 14.0V, which means that I need to reduce the output of my alternator in order to do that. Sterling Power now make a 120A step down charger. This makes it relatively easy to charge the LFP batteries from my alternator (as well as solar). There are other safety mechanisms that should be included in any LFP setup, but these are not rocket science, despite what you might read online.

The biggest problem with LiFePO4 batteries, as I see it, is the lack of "real" information about them. Nearly everyone I have spoken to, from a commercial perspective, make out that they are dangerous and very complicated to setup. I totally disagree with that, as I am sure a few others on this forum would do (I know Shan and Alastair both have LFP setups).

Each to their own, but my personal opinion is that lithium batteries are the best solution currently.
Less weight, smaller physical size, higher resting voltage, no discernible voltage drop from 100% to 20% SOC, the ability to handle high current loads with ease, longer life, faster to charge and the list goes on.
The sticker shock for LFP batteries, and all of the associate equipment required to make a viable "LFP system", does turn people away from them, but if you do the math, usable amps per dollar spent is still better over the life of the batteries.
 

LeishaShannon

Adventurer
Have you looked at the Victron Multiplus? The 1600VA 24v unit is $1395 from http://www.outbackmarine.com.au/Mul...-Inverter-Charger-Victron-CMP241620000-S.5975

Its half the weight of the ICISS unit with similar power handling ability. The big advantage for RV use is PowerControl (limits incoming power from generator for example) and PowerAssist (Assists the generator / mains power to support larger loads than it would otherwise support)

We have 2 in the truck running in parallel and love them. Leisha occasionally forgets we're power limited and fires up a 2000W kettle while we have the 2000W oven on and the inverter fan fires up a bit but it has no problem supplying the additional load for a few minutes while the kettle boils.

Definitely stick with 24v for the big energy appliances (inverters, solar, pumps) as its more efficient and you can get away with less copper. You can use a 24v to 12v DCDC converter for the stuff you can't find in 24v (mainly lights and some cig accessory ports for us)
 

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