Page 30 of 30 FirstFirst ... 20282930

Thread: F550 Surf Camper Build - Adrift in the Green Room

  1. #291
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carpinteria, Ca
    Posts
    384
    Thanks everyone for the advice. Its been a disappointing process. We built everything ourselves, but outsourced the construction and design on the flatbed and mounting system to Overland Explorer, as I felt those were items that might better be built by professionals than homebrewed. Despite them being very expensive, those were the parts that failed.

    Overland Explorer wanted to know what failed, but has remained totally disinterested in fixing or warrantying any of it. We've essentially ended up with 70k (~3X the agreed upon price, a story unto itself) in yard art, and an extraordinary quantity of lost time and money removing, redesigning and subsequently rebuilding.

    While I can see the potential benefits of the stiffer frame (boxing in the C Channel), I don't think anything other than a seriously engineered solution on that front would be wise. I added retaining plates on our subframe, and am going to experiment with stiffer springs and rounds of articulating the suspension until I find a combination that works better. The current new subframe design and rebuild on the inplace locker is already significantly stiffer and seems to have addressed the issues that led to the mounting failure. Truck is going back in for a final paint, so we'll know more when we get it back and can do some real world testing.
    Last edited by S2DM; 07-09-2017 at 09:37 PM.
    1972 NA Haflinger expedition vehicle
    2015 F550 Custom Camper

  2. #292
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Saskatoon, SK Canada
    Posts
    686
    Scott, you will end up with a very mobile, useable camper. I am sure with the level of thought you have put into it so far it will work out better than ever!

    Ward
    2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon (LJ)
    2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon with AT Habitat #17
    2015 Dodge 5500 Motorhome finished and on the road (and off the road) (For Sale)
    http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...5500-motorhome

  3. #293
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    On the road to Nowhere
    Posts
    2,339
    Building a custom vehicle is not for the weak. I built three different rear suspension designs before I got what I wanted; so I know how it feels. It's better you found the weaknesses while you could revise them easily. Having a failure in the boonies really sucks.
    1992 FORD F-350 Crew 4X4. 460 gas, Manual 5-speed. Sky's Offroad Design shackle reversal, Atlas Spring spring packs, Falken 37x12.5-17 Wildpeaks Trailready 17x8.5 beadlocks, Warn Winches front&rear, Odyssey AGM Batteries, Power Master. Centramatic Dynamic Wheel Balancers. Pressure Pro TPMS. Maxima Racing Fluids, Vision-X, JE Reel, Crap Ind.
    Build thread

  4. #294
    Hi. I am extremely interested in your experience with four LA36 units from Linak. I am looking at building a custom pop-up camping trailer and would like your views please, especially on how reliable they have been and the appropriate model. the LA36 may well be huge overkill for my requirements

  5. #295
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carpinteria, Ca
    Posts
    384
    Quote Originally Posted by Peterf View Post
    Hi. I am extremely interested in your experience with four LA36 units from Linak. I am looking at building a custom pop-up camping trailer and would like your views please, especially on how reliable they have been and the appropriate model. the LA36 may well be huge overkill for my requirements
    The LA36 has worked well and been reliable. Depending on the weight of your roof, and how much syncing you need when it is going up, they may be overkill, but its nice to have the options. Because my roof is a cabover and I am using motion control slides, I really needed it to go up square.

    I have an extra set for sale in the for sale and wanted section at half of what a new set would run. Linak came out with a new control system that I wanted and I ordered the first set with the wrong clevis end for the mounts I'd made, so I decided to buy a new set.
    1972 NA Haflinger expedition vehicle
    2015 F550 Custom Camper

  6. #296
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carpinteria, Ca
    Posts
    384

    Default Link to a Kelderman Earthroamer Air Ride I have for sale

    Switched directions on our suspension after alot of thought. So I have a brand new, never installed, 2011-16 full earthroamer air ride kit for sale over the in the for sale and wanted section

    http://forum.expeditionportal.com/th...39#post2359139

    Selling for $1000 less than I paid OBO.
    1972 NA Haflinger expedition vehicle
    2015 F550 Custom Camper

  7. #297
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Corona, CA
    Posts
    34
    Old replies but I figured I'd chime in as I've just gone through a month long balancing process with my tires and they have improved alot!

    Quote Originally Posted by TenaciousTJ View Post
    I ran Dynabeads in my Hutchinsons and it was a nightmare. The rubber Beadlock inside the wheel has two finger sized holes to allow air to pass through them. After not being able to get my wheels to balance, I took them apart and discovered beads had easily fallen into these air holes and were on both sides of the Beadlock, if that makes sense. No way to prevent it and get a decent balance with this design. Not to metion, Dynabeads customer service was absolutely terrible. Just my experience though.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    You can solve that by installing 2 air filters into the holes in the beadlocks. Stazworks came up with that solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by bahndo View Post
    I believe that you can add the beads through the valve stem and not have to split the rim. I'm sure that is not the case for all beads (airsoft bb's will not go through a valve stem) but the ones that are sold for dynamic balancing specially should.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
    If you are running bead locks you absolutely can't add them this way, they'll get stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by S2DM View Post
    What I've been 'told' is that the hutchinson beadlock won't reliably let the beads through the rubber ring and into the outer portion of the rim. But thats not coming from any personal experience, so could very well be wrong.
    When I opened up my Stazworks wheels, which are split with the plastic beadlock inside, I had absolutely no beads that got past the beadlock. Most of them were stuck to the tire where they should be actually. I ended up vacuuming them all out!



    Quote Originally Posted by S2DM View Post
    I guess my concern if how well they work for dynamic imbalance, a bead lock that is constantly changing position. I tried centramatics and am not sure they helped much. If the beadlock is moving, it is also likely not reliably pinching the bead in position during air down maneuvers, so I am hoping to figure out a way to get them tight and stable first off.
    Quote Originally Posted by S2DM View Post
    I took it down to Nate Jones who did a combo of tire shaving, old school traditional balancing, and then a final balance with the tire on the truck, which balanced the entire wheel and rotor assembly. Its now amazingly smooth. He's really a master.
    I was also having alot of irritation with the shimmy at speeds. When driving 10 hours a day it gets on your nerves!

    My end solution to help the balancing was to vacuum out all of the beads and take them to a Goodyear truck service center who had a large enough balancer for my tires. I also was concerned about the inner beadlock donut, and was considering splitting the rim and removing it for balancing and then reinstalling marking where the tire and rim was, but I figure that in itself will cause more problems moving things around so I would just balance with them in place and hope they are negligible in how they affect the balancing.

    After balancing I also added the centramatics and they seem to do well at nipping the final balancing of the tire. Perhaps they compensate for any movement of the donut?

    In the end it still has a little bit of a shimmy at 65mph, but nothing like it used to! I do yearn for the days of 35" completely smooth ride tires at times, but the trade off is worth it now. Perhaps I need to drive to visit Nate Jones, lol. I never even heard of him or that he could take on balancing problems like this!

  8. #298
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carpinteria, Ca
    Posts
    384

    Default Die Spring Rate Advice

    Part of the failures on the OEM build were too soft a rate on the die springs. I replaced them later, and these also seemed too soft. Anyone have advice on what rate to run on the springs that attach the new subframe to the truck frame?

    I have a shear mount on the rear, a new UHMW lined retaining plate upfront, and then 4 springs on each side. Its a little hard to say how much swing weight I really have given that the rear is a shear mount, so the front is only controlling a portion of the motion. My total weight on the rig fully loaded is around 15k and the truck weighs close to 9.
    1972 NA Haflinger expedition vehicle
    2015 F550 Custom Camper

Page 30 of 30 FirstFirst ... 20282930

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •