2003 Suburban 1500 Pop Top Conversion

[Burb One]

I'm on 33's right now with 4.10 and I think it is ideal, especially with the weight we carry with all the camping/expo crap. Definitely worth it over the 3.73's in my opinion, much more pick up and go and seems to get a little better mpg than 3.73 and 33's. With 33's/ 4.10 the rpm's are a little high for flat cruising at 75 imo, but in hill/mountain freeways and off the line with everything loaded up ( and especially when I tow) it's perfect. With 35's I am worried I'll lose that get up and go and some mpg... all a trade off.

Look on craigslist, there are so many trucks with the 8.25 front end in them (probably tens of million over the years?! Someone was parting out their truck they crashed after they had bought it from the insurance company for nothing, the deals are to be had!

 

[boll_rig]

To be honest I feel like my burb is a slug right now, even with my current tires. So if I did go up to 33s i feel like I would definitely have to re-gear with 4.10.. What are you rpms like at 75? I usually go 70-80 when I'm going long distances and am worried about running too high.

And Geron (can't believe I've been saying geno this whole time ha, my bad), I'd be worried too if I were you with 35s! But they would look pretty bada$$ and you'd get over anything pretty comfortably.

 

[chilliwak]

To be honest I feel like my burb is a slug right now, even with my current tires. So if I did got up to 33s i feel like I would definitely have to re-gear with 4.10.. What are you rpms like at 75? I usually go 70-80 when I'm going long distances and am worried about running too high.

And Geron (can't believe I've been saying geno this whole time ha, my bad), I'd be worried too if I were you with 35s! But they would look pretty bada$$ and you'd get over anything pretty comfortably.

If you have an overdrive you will be fine with a 4.10 ratio. I dont have overdrive so my rpms really come up on the highway...:wings:

 

[camp4x4]

To be honest I feel like my burb is a slug right now, even with my current tires. So if I did got up to 33s i feel like I would definitely have to re-gear with 4.10.. What are you rpms like at 75? I usually go 70-80 when I'm going long distances and am worried about running too high.

And Geron (can't believe I've been saying geno this whole time ha, my bad), I'd be worried too if I were you with 35s! But they would look pretty bada$$ and you'd get over anything pretty comfortably.

Just gotta do the math to figure out what you need to match current or near current final gear ratio. Calculator here: http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartire.php

Looks like coming off 31" tires to 33" tires from a 3.73 gear ratio, 3.97 would be a perfect match (no such gears made though). So 4.10 will end up a little low, bringing the revs up a bit overall (very little). That may feel nicer since you're complaining about it being a bit dogged. 4.10 would also be a little high for 35" but would certainly work.

BTW, I moved from 33's to 35's to 37's and I have to say every step larger made me love the truck more and more. 35's are a great size overall to go with 3/4-ton axles. Not only do they go over things that much better than 31's, but they fill the wheel wells perfectly as well.

 

[Tank5]

I just found this thread, I love your build. I like the big windows in your pop top.

I just re-geared my tundra from 3.90 gears to 4.10 gears. I have always been running 33's. I do not remember the specifics but I felt like the rpms dropped on the highway and the engine was not running as hard to maintain 80 mph. I am liking the 4.10 gearing so far. I wish I could get 35's on the my rig but they will not fit with cutting the front fenders.

 

[boll_rig]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Debating doing nothing at the moment on tires as my tread is still okay for a bit. But have been looking for the elusive 4.10, 14 bolt, 6 lug, disc brake rear end with the help of Gerom. Yet to find one.

Also debating just going up to a 32 in duratrac and not re gearing just fixing the rear end.

The vibration in the rear seems to have dissipated or I have become used to it.. can't tell. Still have a small diff leak though. Wondering how long I can do nothing about it.

Truck currently covered in about a foot of snow. Went winter camping with a friend two nights ago to test the winter capabilities of the pop top. Pretty happy with how it performed. That thing just stores heat up top and holds it well. I brought my portable buddy heater and would turn it on full blast in the back for about 10 minutes and the air would rise right up to where we were sitting in the canopy and i swear it was 50 degrees in there. We also tarped from my topper to his to create a wind block.

I was most worried about getting the cold, and also wet from condensation, canvas to fold back into place. It was certainly a little harder that a hot summer day but it squished down after a few minutes. I do have some wear on the inside where it rubs on bolts and other sharp pieces I need to cover. Also need to work on some corner struts in case it snows a lot next time its popped.

Overall this thing rules in the winter, it dropped to about 15 at night, i slept in my bag without the heater on and was plenty warm.

 

[rayra]

All very interesting. You could also line the interior of the erected popup with some sort of radiant barrier or thinsulate curtains.

Maybe cap those exposed bolt ends with acorn nuts as a stop-gap / quick fix for the wear locations. Doesn't even matter if they can't replace the current nuts or cover up all the bolt threads, just get them on to cover the end threads.
Or use any kind of plastic vacuum line end cap or even wrap the ends with duct tape just to cover the sharp metal.


Just got my 'lift' settled, planning a shakedown trip to mess around in the snow in the Grapevine after this storm series passes, been shopping fees for Forest passes. And I intend to make some trips up the east side of the Sierras this year, one way or another.

 

[chilliwak]

Cool looking pics Boll1 Looks like you had fun on that trip. Trial and error is the best way to find a solution for your problems with the exposed bolts. Try a few different ways to fix it and then you will get a good idea. Cheers, Chilli..

 

[cheapthrills]

This was an awsome build, great use of uncommon "average Joe " skill set. I've been dreaming up my own similar pop up for a grand wagoneer. Yours turned out perfect. I love the ambient lighting in the pop up looks awsome. Good job.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[boll_rig]

This was an awsome build, great use of uncommon "average Joe " skill set. I've been dreaming up my own similar pop up for a grand wagoneer. Yours turned out perfect. I love the ambient lighting in the pop up looks awsome. Good job.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Thanks cheapthrills glad you enjoyed the process. certainly a learning process.

Agree Chilli trial and error is the best method for solving a problem/finding problems ha.


Ray I have been debating getting a thin reflectix type material that would go on the inside of the popup but honestly after trying it and seeing how insulated it is I might wait until I'm into colder days for longer periods of time. Could even do three front panels with reflectix around my head where i sleep in the front. Already duct taped the bolts ha but I might cut them off as they protrude about a cm beyond the nut.

Also the lift looks great!

Still working on designs for my storage drawer/bed.. had an interesting one the other day to use the pull out table as the bed extender..

 

[rayra]

There is a similar idea to that somewhere in that huge stuck topic in Storage. The gent had a top deck that extended out into sleeping length. The pieces fit together like a comb, 3 slats on the sliding piece, 2 on the fixed piece. And that way when slid out it made a sort of slatted surface.
You could do something more simple just make the bench top double thick, maybe with that C-channel idea, except that's on top. Then you get the height you want on the extended portion.
Or use a 3" wide slat at front and back edge, a tongue and groove joint(s), with a narrower sliding extension trapped between them. That would need to be hardwood for more strength in the T&G and I still wouldn't put a great deal of weight on it.

Another trick on the exposed bolt threads, I saw it done once long ago at some horse stables, the proprietor (handyman?) was rubbing a hard wax candle over the thread ends. Not sure if you was trying to keep the livestock from getting cut up, or just trying to keep the old fence post bolts from rusting. But it might 'grease' those exposed ends so the material slides by easier. But the duct tape is doing the same thing anyway.

 

[boll_rig]

Duct tape seems to be working. Also adding small strips to the canvas where its getting roughed up with cloth tape to minimize damage.. Took me about 3 hours to find that post you were talking about ray with the combed pull out bed, some good ideas in the thread..

Will be making some progress on the drawer/bench this week.

Also pretty sure I decided not to go with 4.10s just yet but to try and find a new rear end that is 14bolt 6 lug with 3.73 gears and swap.

Cant find that 4.10 anywhere and probably not going to go with 33s but the wrangler 265/75/16 which is about 31.7 or so, thoughts on that tire?

Wanted to throw a question out and see whether anyone has had to replace their steering gear box and lines? mines been leaking for a year or two. Both from the line and the gear box i think.

 

[swissarmychainsaw]

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<snip>
Wanted to throw a question out and see whether anyone has had to replace their steering gear box and lines? mines been leaking for a year or two. Both from the line and the gear box i think.

(love this thread btw, congrats on this awesome thing you have done!)
My experience is with older suburbans and trucks, but replacing the steering gear box is not a bad job.
I have had bad luck with the Re-manufactured boxes (as in they don't work as good as the old one), and suggest simply replacing the seal that is leaking.
It's often the one where the steering shaft connects to the gearbox and is not difficult to replace (and a lot cheaper)!

 

[ejwebb]

I am running a 285/70/17 on a Z-71 Tahoe with 4:10 gears and at 75 MPH it runs 2100 to 2200 RPM. I'm also running a key lift of 2.5 inches in front with a 1 inch spacer in the back. works fine.

 

[rayra]

degrease and clean that steering system really well then watch where the leak spawns from. It will almost certainly be the high pressure line from the pump to the steering box. The one with the crimped end fittings. The other hose is the no-pressure return line, typicalyl bare rubber hose with hose clamps of some type. Easy fix. The steering box itself, seal replacement kits can be found, also not terribly difficult to install / repair.