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Thread: Norwegian Unimog U1700L camper build

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    725
    It will have to be a really really big winch, that pump looks the same is what I had, it has a massive flow rate. The smaller belt driven pump on the engine is all you need for a winch.
    Iain
    Brisbane, Australia
    Land Rover Defender 110
    Land Rover Discovery 3 TDV6
    Unimog U1250
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  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by Iain_U1250 View Post
    Your truck is looking good, just be careful about the weight, things add up quickly, and having to drag around a lot of extra weight will add to fuel consumption and overall maintenance even if you can keep it under the GVM of the truck, lighter is always better. What is the maximum overhang you are allowed at the rear, check with vehicles standards people, over here in Australia it is 60% of wheelbase. I think Australia copied that from a European standard. Having the spare wheels on the back cuts down a lot on the usable camper box space.

    Also, just wondering what you will be using the big hydraulic pump on the back of the gearbox for?
    Hi Iain,


    Weight is always an enemy when building something based on a road going vehicle. For living I am a mechanical engineer and building mining equipment based on truck chassis, so I am used to the problem... This is one of our latest builds, it's a "concrete robot", specially designed for spraying concrete inside the roof of tunnels:

    IMG_0884.jpg

    GVM on my truck is 10600kg, but I will be aiming at somewere around 7,5 tonns.

    Earlier it was the same here as in Australia with 60% of wheelbase as maximum allowed overhang in the rear. But the rules changed some years ago, now the only requirement is that the truck needs to be able to turn around a "standard EU-roundabout" (see drawing underneath for this roundabout, max. radius is 12500mm and min radius is 5300mm, btw the truck in the drawing is the same as in the picture above) and that minimum weight on front axle never is lower than 10% of total GVM.

    Rundkjøring.gif

    So in reality you are allowed to have quite a bit of overhang now even if the wheelbase in the truck is quite short, as long as you have good turning radius and enough weight on the front axle. The overhang I plan to have on my box is aprox. 1850mm measured from center of the rear axle to the outside of the back wall on the living box. Total length of the box is 3800mm.

    I am not sure at this moment if we will decide on one or two spare wheels, I just inserted two in the CAD-model since I thought it looked good

    The hydraulic pump is a good question. I actually don't know what I will use it for... It was previously used for operating the hydraulic crane, but that is now long gone. I have a Warn series 15 hydraulic winch which I intend to mount in the front bumper, but probably the easiest thing will be to run it directly from the engine mounted hydraulic pump which already is prepared with tank for hydraulic fluid and operating levelers inside the cabin. So if you have any good ideas I am open for suggestions!
    Last edited by Vegard_S; 11-18-2015 at 09:03 PM.
    Vegard

    Norway

    Mercedes-Benz Unimog 1700L, 1980
    Mercedes-Benz Geländewagen 300GD STT turbo + intercooler, 1981
    Mercedes-Benz 280S, 1966

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    725
    I chose to dump all the hydraulics off mine, main reason is all the extra valves and tanks you need , it was quite a lot of extra weight. If you have other uses for the hydraulics, that's OK, but it is a bit overkill just for a winch or two. My winches are rated at 16,500lb - 7.5 ton, and I have a large sheave block so could double that to 15 ton - if I could find something that big to winch off I hope I never need to use them, they are a " last resort". They are only for getting me out of trouble, not for getting me deeper into trouble.
    Iain
    Brisbane, Australia
    Land Rover Defender 110
    Land Rover Discovery 3 TDV6
    Unimog U1250
    videos

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    140
    Just a quick update:

    The last days managed to do some work on my roof extension for the cabin. Today I finnished the frame for it and got it liftet up on top of the existing roof. Still a lot of work to do with welding it to the truck body, cutting away the old roof. Insulating the extension box, covering the outside of the box with aluminium ++

    I will post better pictures and more info about the process later when I have more time for it. The pictures are taken with my cellphone, hence the bad quality..

    12286007_10153303922606297_1616767714_n.jpg 12277985_10153303922671297_400649047_n.jpg

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    12283316_10153303922256297_1119146445_n.jpg
    Vegard

    Norway

    Mercedes-Benz Unimog 1700L, 1980
    Mercedes-Benz Geländewagen 300GD STT turbo + intercooler, 1981
    Mercedes-Benz 280S, 1966

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    725
    That is quite a big extension, looks very solid. Great work.
    Iain
    Brisbane, Australia
    Land Rover Defender 110
    Land Rover Discovery 3 TDV6
    Unimog U1250
    videos

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    140
    Ok, so I've spent most of my christmas holiday in the garage working on the roof extension for the cab. The extension is now almost finnished on the outside, only need to tidy up some of the gluing/sealing in the corner and cover all of the exterior corners with some aluminiums angles. The rear wall and of the sides of the extension are covered with 2mm thick aluminium plates, while the front plate is made of 3 mm plate. Tghe roof plate is 3 mm cheeker plate. The cutout in the top of the front plate will be for LED-light bars. All plates are glued on to the steel frame using sikaflex (almost 7 kg of sixaflex in total!) The inside of the box is insulated using 50 mm thick styrofoam plates.

    20151128_132352.jpg 20151128_141311.jpg

    20151207_200135.jpg 20151207_200139.jpg

    I also made the cutout in the rear wall for the walk-thru. Dimensions are 800mm x 600mm.

    20151207_204603.jpg 20151211_180205.jpg

    20151211_180255.jpg 20151211_185820.jpg

    20151211_190041.jpg 20151212_175744.jpg
    Vegard

    Norway

    Mercedes-Benz Unimog 1700L, 1980
    Mercedes-Benz Geländewagen 300GD STT turbo + intercooler, 1981
    Mercedes-Benz 280S, 1966

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    140
    Last edited by Vegard_S; 01-03-2016 at 11:43 AM.
    Vegard

    Norway

    Mercedes-Benz Unimog 1700L, 1980
    Mercedes-Benz Geländewagen 300GD STT turbo + intercooler, 1981
    Mercedes-Benz 280S, 1966

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    140
    So yesterday I took it outside to take some pictures of the current status. Here you can also see the new dieseltank which i modified to fit, and the extended pipe for the raised air intake. The exhaust will also need to be lifted, but i will tackle this on a later stage.

    DSC_5163 (800x531).jpg DSC_5167 (800x531).jpg

    DSC_5147 (800x531).jpg DSC_5151 (800x531).jpg

    DSC_5152 (800x531).jpg DSC_5154 (531x800).jpg

    DSC_5156 (531x800).jpg DSC_5170 (800x531).jpg

    DSC_5171 (800x531).jpg
    Vegard

    Norway

    Mercedes-Benz Unimog 1700L, 1980
    Mercedes-Benz Geländewagen 300GD STT turbo + intercooler, 1981
    Mercedes-Benz 280S, 1966

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Ourém - Portugal
    Posts
    1
    Looking good!

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Juneau, Alaska
    Posts
    212
    impressive project.

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