Norwegian Unimog U1700L camper build
- Thread starter Vegard_S
- Start date
Vegard_S
Adventurer
We (the wife and I) decided not to do any modifications to the existing dashboard, except form painting it, all additional instruments, switches, stereo etc. will instead be mounted in an overhead console above the front windscreen. The finished design is not yet made, but probably it will end up looking something similar to this:
Double DIN-stereo in the lover part of the center console, above CB-radio and loudspeaker for this. To the left two rows of rocker switches, above two rows of Ø52 instrumens for various components. Far to the left and right 6'' or 7''speakers for the stereo. On the pasenger side a glove compartment with top hinged door.
Vegard_S
Adventurer
We also redid the door trim. The old was saggy and worn, so we removed the old black leather imitation. Luckily the inserts where in good shape and could be re-used. So after gluing on some new fake leather (marine quality), they were as good as new. When re-installing them we decided to insert pop-nuts and use M8 bolts instead of the original plastic plugs. We also covered the openings in the doors with tape and thin plastic, it should keep the moisture out, but also help as sound- and thermo-insulation.
The lifting mechanism for the window on the driver side was very slow, and would sometimes jam up. When I had a closer look at it it turned out that the sliding list, which is clamped to the bottom of the window, was very rusted and had a big hole in the middle where the small wheel on the lifting arm is supposed to glide. I therefore ordered a new one. The new one was way to long to fit inside the door, but after cutting it so it would match the old one, it went straight in, so now the window slides up and down again without any reistance.
The lifting mechanism for the window on the driver side was very slow, and would sometimes jam up. When I had a closer look at it it turned out that the sliding list, which is clamped to the bottom of the window, was very rusted and had a big hole in the middle where the small wheel on the lifting arm is supposed to glide. I therefore ordered a new one. The new one was way to long to fit inside the door, but after cutting it so it would match the old one, it went straight in, so now the window slides up and down again without any reistance.
Vegard_S
Adventurer
Since the door covers turned out so great we decided to go with the same fake leather inside the extended roof. Three 6,5mm plywood plates where cut to fit, the center one with a big cut-out for the roof hatch. Then they wherecovered with the fake leather and bolted to the existing roof structure using M6 countersunk bolts. Still a bit unsure about what we’ll use to cover up the walls of the lifted roof with, but probably we’ll end up with a solution similar to the roof plates.
Iain_U1250
Explorer
Some great progress, great to see thing coming on nicely. I had exactly the same problem with the new window sliders, had to cut them as well. Seem Mrs Benz supplies a generic part that fits a few different vehicles.
Vegard_S
Adventurer
Thanks Jostein,
We are at the moment a bit in the "thinking box" about whether to fabricate the camper box our self of GRP sandwich panels, or if we should have someone buildt the empty shell of sandwich plates. I have sendt price inquiries for production of the empty camper shell to a couple of companies, but so far the prices have been a bit higher than what we where hoping.
To buy only the panels and then fabricate the box our self is also an opportunity, but it requiers time and a lot of space, both which we dont have... It also seems that loos panels also are a bit pricy to buy, so well see what we end up with in the end . There is still a few suppliers I know off which I haven't contacted yet. What is your plan for the Vario, homemade GRP sandwich box?
Vegard_S
Adventurer
Nice job restoring the dashboard, looks very clean!
Thanks Bernto, and welcome on board! Looking forward to reading your Subaru build thread soon! :ylsmoke:
Vegard_S
Adventurer
Thanks Ian,
Than we can confirm that window sliders are oversized from factory, no matter if you buy them in Australia or in Norway! :wings:
BTW I'm following your blog whith great interest and waiting for the latest updates from your ongoing Walkabout
charlieaarons
Explorer
What is the track of your axles and offset of the wheels? Track = (hub-to-hub width) - 2*wheel offset. On mine, that is 2150mm - 2*90 = 1970mm. On yours, it looks like 2250mm (standard on heavy UHN Mogs) - 2*~250mm = only 1750mm
You could greatly increase stability and roll-over angle (by about 5 degrees!!) and also decrease rpm at 90kph by about 250 rpm by buying some 10.00-20 Hutchinson wheels (c0mpatible with beadlocks) from Vrakking with 100mm offset and running 14.00R20 XZLs. You'd need lug nuts with sleeves since the wheels are so thick (aluminium).
https://www.vrakking-tires.com/20-inch/624-10x20-hutchinson-aluminium-wheel.html
In other terms, permissible center of gravity would be raised by 0.7*300mm ~ 210mm, of which only 54mm would be used up by the taller tire. Assuming of course that current wheels are 250mm offset (distance from center of tire to inside mounting surface; they could be only about 200mm, in which case track is 1850mm, in which case COG could go up by 140mm, 54mm taken up by taller tires. Still significant.
Charlie
You could greatly increase stability and roll-over angle (by about 5 degrees!!) and also decrease rpm at 90kph by about 250 rpm by buying some 10.00-20 Hutchinson wheels (c0mpatible with beadlocks) from Vrakking with 100mm offset and running 14.00R20 XZLs. You'd need lug nuts with sleeves since the wheels are so thick (aluminium).
https://www.vrakking-tires.com/20-inch/624-10x20-hutchinson-aluminium-wheel.html
In other terms, permissible center of gravity would be raised by 0.7*300mm ~ 210mm, of which only 54mm would be used up by the taller tire. Assuming of course that current wheels are 250mm offset (distance from center of tire to inside mounting surface; they could be only about 200mm, in which case track is 1850mm, in which case COG could go up by 140mm, 54mm taken up by taller tires. Still significant.
Charlie
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Vegard_S
Adventurer
Hello Charlie,
To be honest I'm not sure what the track of the axles and wheel offset is for my Unimog, but I can check it later on.
The wheels on it now is R13x22.5. But in the registration papers my Unimog is listed with R14.5x24 as standard/original tire dimension. My long term plan was then to get some 11x24 rims and mount Continental MPT81 14.00x24. But maybe 10.00x20 would be a more sensible way of going?
Vrakking seems to have a lot of nice stuff, but as I can see they dont have any 24'' rims or 10x20 rims with 8-bolt pattern, but I guess both can be customised if you just have the cash for it.
To be honest I'm not sure what the track of the axles and wheel offset is for my Unimog, but I can check it later on.
The wheels on it now is R13x22.5. But in the registration papers my Unimog is listed with R14.5x24 as standard/original tire dimension. My long term plan was then to get some 11x24 rims and mount Continental MPT81 14.00x24. But maybe 10.00x20 would be a more sensible way of going?
Vrakking seems to have a lot of nice stuff, but as I can see they dont have any 24'' rims or 10x20 rims with 8-bolt pattern, but I guess both can be customised if you just have the cash for it.
charlieaarons
Explorer
Ah, 8 bolt rather than 10 - make it difficult.
14.00R24 is a very tall tire, about 53", 13R22.5 is about 45". 14.5-24 is an odd size, I've never heard of it. I do know that 14.00R20 is ~49.5", 14.5R20 is ~43.1" (80 series height/width ratio).
10.00-20 rims give you the choice of 395/85R20 (46.7"), 14.00R20 (49.5"), even 16.00R20 (53").
Charlie
14.00R24 is a very tall tire, about 53", 13R22.5 is about 45". 14.5-24 is an odd size, I've never heard of it. I do know that 14.00R20 is ~49.5", 14.5R20 is ~43.1" (80 series height/width ratio).
10.00-20 rims give you the choice of 395/85R20 (46.7"), 14.00R20 (49.5"), even 16.00R20 (53").
Charlie
jostein
Adventurer
My ambitions have been, and still are, to build the box myself. GRP/foam sandwich is the obvious choice to me.
I was seriously thinking about making the panels as well, so I made a small test panel. (as shown in my thread).
At the moment I am leaning against buying finished panels. Mainly due to the labour and equipment that goes into making large panels at home.
Currently trying to source a supplier with decent prices.
I was seriously thinking about making the panels as well, so I made a small test panel. (as shown in my thread).
At the moment I am leaning against buying finished panels. Mainly due to the labour and equipment that goes into making large panels at home.
Currently trying to source a supplier with decent prices.