Gnarvan AWD Express build.

TeleSteve

Adventurer
First post to this forum, but have been lurking and benefitting from the great information on this site. I have been searching for a four wheel drive van since February and finally decided on a 2010 Express AWD. My main use for this van is for a winter travel camper vehicle to support my skiing addiction. It will also be used for year round outdoor activities such as mountain biking, rock climbing, fly fishing, and getting to trail heads. It will be used for moderate offroad use, but not too extreme. I have a 69 bronco that I have built and upgraded over the last 24 years that is set up really well for offroad trail and rock crawling. Here is the van as I purchased it:
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It is a no window cargo van with 3.73 gears and G80 locking differential. It has remote power locks, power windows, and the wraparound headlights with chrome grill, and double side doors. I was hoping to also get rear and side door push out windows, cruise control, and tilt steering. I will likely add or live with out these.
My current plans for the van are to make an insulated and heated camper interior and add a 4-5" lift with some 33" tires.
So far I have installed a suspension lift using torsion keys, front shock spacers (temporary until I buy longer shocks probably Bilstein 5100 #24-186643), 2" rear lift blocks, and longer KYB 3/4 ton Express rear shocks (KYB 554348). I might upgrade rear springs to 3/4 ton suburban springs, but will wait to see how it rides once it is built out and loaded, drives well empty. This was all pretty easy and most of the information came from this forum. Thank you for that!
Here it is with the 2-3" suspension lift
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I also did a 2" body lift. This was a little more to bite off, I wasn't able to find any aftermarket kits or information for more than a 1" body lift (zurens build). The body lift was pretty straight forward using twelve 2" body lift spacers and 12- M14.2 x 150mm long bolts. A few modification are needed to make everything work properly. I had to make 2" fan shroud spacers to drop the lower shroud down. This required some minor trimming of the bottom two corners to clear the bottom of the core support and two new holes drilled in the shroud. For spacers I used about 3 feet of 1"x2" .095 wall aluminum tube cut and mitered to follow the shape of the shroud seems. Six longer M6 x 170 mm bolts are needed to connect the upper and lower shroud. The steering intermediate shaft was not long enough so it was cut, sleeved and welded to extend it 2". Aftermarket extensions may be available through Performance Accessories, but cost around $150. That is all that needs modifying.
A 2" body lift creates some big bumper to body gaps so the bumper mounting brackets needed modifying. The fronts were the most work. I removed the bottom two lips and welded new pieces in to create the 2" rise, A 2" square tube is used to space the top down. This requires a tiny bit of trimming to the front frame horns, about 1/4". If you don't mind trimming more (about 1.5" you could just remove the bottom lip and drill a hole in the bottom of the bracket.
Before:
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After:
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The rear bumper was pretty simple, It only requires one new slot in the end of the frame horn and one slot on the bumper bracket lengthened. The bolt spacing needed to get a little closer so I used the bolt tabs from the side support brackets. The side support brackets can just be moved up one hole and only use one bolt instead of two. The spare tire will likely be mounted to swing out carrier, but if not I will either move the hole mount up for more ground clearance and to utilze the lowering hoist hole in the body. A hole could be drilled in the plastic bumper cover to allow it to work in its current location.
Middle slot was added
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Bottom slot was extended up and down
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Here is the van with 2-3" suspension lift and 2" body lift:
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The bumpers were test fitted with the modified brackets but left off so I can strip the chrome and paint them black, I will also paint the chrome grill while it is off.

I am currently shopping for wheels and tires will probably go with the new BFG All Terrain KO around 33" tall.

Thank you to all you AWD Express/Savana guys who have shared your builds!
 

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Very nice options & not white! Black would be HOT in the desert southwest. Huge lift - I run 32" (270/70R17) tires with 2-1/2-3" lift; 33's would fit my height, it is the width of the wheel wells that seem to limit - wheel offset in the front will be crucial, or trimming.

Following along & anxious to see your interior build.
 

86cj

Explorer
Very Cool AWD Van.........

Thanks for posting up the info, we all need the push to take on something that has no pre-made kit. A little taller tire would be nice, I am looking forward to your progress, the fiberglass piece behind the tire is my guess for rubbing......
 

TeleSteve

Adventurer
Haven't been back here to update this for a bit. I finished a ton of electrical work adding stereo, backup camera, seat heaters, trailer wiring, trailer brake controller, and fog lights. Cut down passenger seat base and added seat swivel. Frenched fog lights into the factory chrome bumper and pie cut out the ends near the front tires. Painted the bumpers and grill black. I just got back from having wheels and tires installed, I went with 275/70-R18 BFG AT KO2s (33.2" x 10.9") on 18x9 wheels. I have a lot more pictures and details on the Sportsmobile forum build thread.
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k9lestat

Expedition Leader
What is that big fence for? Must be much larger beast than the little dogin the driveway.

Sent from my QMV7A using Tapatalk
 

TeleSteve

Adventurer
Slowy ticking items off my list. I picked up a used tilt steering column and installed it with a new leather steering wheel with cruise control switches. This was a pretty straight forward swap. The donor column was from a 2008 and only had a 2 wire airbag, my 2010 had a 4wire, but a simple swap of the clock springs from my old column was all that was needed. The column wiring harnesses were identical part numbers so all the wires are there even in the base vans. This means you could just swap a cruise steering wheel to any van. The next step is to take it to a dealer and have the BCM reflashed to activate the Cruise control. The new steering also has the radio controls, I had already swapped the stereo and didn't by the adapter to allow steering wheel controls ( I didn't have them at the time) so I can't confirm weather these would work or not. From my research they seem to work in most GM cars with just the steering wheel swap without any dealer reflash. Update: I was back in the dash for some other mods and looked into the wiring for the radio steering wheel controls my van does not have the needed wires for radio controls. Hopefully the cruise control works, I haven't found any information for this swap on a van.
New Steering Wheel:
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Tilt Column:
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I swapped the ignition core to keep my original key that matches all the doors. This is pretty simple just insert a small pin, I used a allen key in the top hole with the key in the start position. You will need the key to the donor column.
Old column and deteriorating rubber steering wheel removed:
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Using Allen key to remove core:
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I also picked up a used rear bench seat that folds down for the bed. It's tan and I my van has grey interior, but the price was good. It will get recovered or dyed, the headrest will definitely get recovered I am not feeling the embroidery. I also installed CLC tiles for sound deadening. This was a night and day difference.
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This weekend it took its first trip out to our lake cabin. We didn't camp in the van but we did get to try out the suspension on the rough logging roads that take us to the cabin. Also used it to haul some gear down to the boat docks on the loose sand beach. The shock extensions up front are definitely causing the front shocks to bottom out so I have some Bilstein (24-186643) 5100 series shocks coming. Although it took some pretty good size bumps to notice and the ride was still good.
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I am hoping to get started on the insulation this week. I am using a combination of Reflectix, ridged foam, and foil lined coarse denier nonwoven polyester fiber. I have a MaxxFan roof vent, a Webasto Airtop 2000t Gasoline Heater, a Blue Sea Systems BatteryLink 120A ACR, and a Magnum MMS1012 1000w inverter/charger all ready to install and wire. I will only be running a small 600w microwave (800w consumption) and powering/charging computers cameras on the inverter. Still working out all the details and locations for these if anyone has any suggestions. I will likely go with a single 4D house battery mounted underneath on the driver side.
 
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TeleSteve

Adventurer
I just got back from a trip to the Chevy dealer. Cruise control is activated and working. For anyone else going this route, the only part you need to buy is the steering wheel with cruise control switches. (Update:, looking for other parts I noticed you can by just the factory CC switch so this may also be an option)When you go into the dealer let them know they need to list the part numbers for the steering wheel, clock spring, and column wiring harness on the RPO. Other than the steering wheel none of these parts need to be changed. The service tech will have to call GM and fax a copy of the RPO into GM to get a activation code to reflash the BCM. There is a $50 charge to the dealer for the activation code. A tech should be able to do everything for the one hour shop rate. I didn't ask but the steering wheel could probably be changed in this time. It only took me 10 minutes. The total cost at my dealer was $139 just for the activation code and BCM flash.
 
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david.lemke

Adventurer
where did you get the lift pucks, I am using 1" pucks and they are not as wide as yours are

now I am going to do another lift on the body to go higher, I already did the steering shaft mod

will the column and cruise mod work on a 05 do you know????
 

TeleSteve

Adventurer
where did you get the lift pucks, I am using 1" pucks and they are not as wide as yours are

now I am going to do another lift on the body to go higher, I already did the steering shaft mod

will the column and cruise mod work on a 05 do you know????
I bought the body lift blocks from zone offroad on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261837450467?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
As for the tilt and cruise, I am not certain a lot of things changed after 2007. I think the 2005 had the cruise control buttons in the turn signal switch. When researching this I did find one person who just swapped the turn signal switch and the cruise control worked on a 2006 (it needs to be drive by wire). Here is his build thread:
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=10864
I am sure the tilt column would work as long you purchased a 2003-2006 column.
 
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45Kevin

Adventurer
I did changed the turn signal/multi-function switch swap on my 1998 6.5T suburban. It was as easy as that. No reflash needed. The 6.5T had no accelerator cable, it was drive by wire and that is why the signal switch was all it took to get cruise.

I have 2007 AWD express and the stock cruise is on the turn signal switch (changed to the wheel in 2008) but I am not sure if there is an accelerator cable or if it is drive by wire. If it drive by wire a new signal switch should get you cruise.
 

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